Hello everyone
Paul from Rum Barber here.
Today, we are going to look at something I have wanted to cover for a while
and that's how to blow dry and style hair.
Usually in tutorials we speed up the drying and styling section, as we are mainly focussing
on the haircut.
But the drying and styling of a haircut is equally as important as the cut itself, for
creating the finished look.
When customers show you a picture of a haircut they like,
it's usually the texture, separation or overall finish that they are really after
and this comes from the styling.
So, I wanted to start working on some videos that cover blow drying and styling techniques
that will help you achieve a better finish to your haircuts.
On the mannequin head, I have already cut a longer pompadour shape as I want to focus
on root lift and volume in this video.
To begin with, I am using some texturizing thickening spray
as this will help me add volume and create support in the root area.
Now, I've seen people just spray their texturing or salt spray directly over the hair when
it's combed back, but what you need to do is get the product directly into the root
area where it is most effective.
So, here I am using a Denman vent brush to separate the hair, which allows me to get
the spray directly into the roots.
Now, another thing that people tend to do is go straight in with a round brush and start
trying to dry the hair into shape.
The problem with that is you are mainly focussing the heat of the dryer on the mid lengths and
ends of the hair.
To create volume, you need to dry the root area first.
Think of the roots as the foundations of a house, without strong foundations the house
would collapse.
Plus, hair is weaker when it's wet, so pulling at it with a round brush at this stage
can cause damage.
So, what I am doing here is 'power drying' the hair into shape with my fingers.
At the sides, I am using the airflow of the dryer to direct the hair into the shape I
want it to go.
At the top, I am using my fingers to lift and direct the hair allowing the hot air access
to the root area.
I will do this until the hair is around 90% dry.
I am always making sure that the airflow from my dryer is pointing in the direction I want
the hair to sit.
Again, at the back, I am using my fingers and the airflow to guide the hair into position.
I usually keep the heat and power settings on my hairdryer at the lowest setting, to
prevent causing damage and keep greater control of the airflow.
Next, I will use my Denman vent brush to direct the airflow through the sides and back to
make sure the hair is 100% dry, and in the direction that I want it to sit.
Now, this technique is excellent for achieving strong root lift.
You want to have your vent brush flat against the head,
lift it up, bring it back down,
wrap it round and lift.
This time I will do it a little faster with the dryer.
Up, down, wrap and lift, using the airflow to keep the hair on the brush.
As you can see this really creates some strong volume that can be used as the foundation
for the finished style.
I am going to use this technique throughout the top to achieve as much root lift as possible,
working from the crown area, in sections to the front hairline.
I will now do the same on both sides working the hair up and into the top.
At the back, I will use my vent brush to wrap dry the hair in towards the centre on both
sides.
This will ensure the roots are 100% dry and lying in correct direction.
Now the hair is completely dry, and I have achieved as much root lift as possible,
It is time to use my round brushes to smooth the cuticle and control the hair into shape.
I am using two round brushes from YS Park.
The first thing to note, is amount of hair to wrap around you brush should be the same
width as your brush.
Basically, the section of hair should be the width of the brush you are using.
This amount of hair shouldn't overload the brush and allow the hair to be styled into
place with minimum effort.
Starting with the smaller of my two round brushes I am going to work in sections from
the crown to the front hairline.
You will notice that I am using the airflow of the dryer to keep the hair against the
brush as I lift from the head.
This helps control the hair and helps keep the motion smooth.
Going back to what I said earlier about starting with a round brush on wet hair.
You can see here that even though the hair is 100% dry it can still be styled in to place
with a round brush.
The hair itself is now stronger being dry so inevitably causing less damage.
Always keep the section width the same as the brush you are using, and the hair will
be easier to control.
On my last section I switch to my larger round brush.
Again, keeping my section width the same as my brush.
Let's look at using the action of using the round brush in more detail.
We want to be turning the brush as we prepare the section, this keeps the hair smooth and
easier to work with.
We lift the brush using the airflow for control, until we reach the tips, then we roll the
brush back down to the roots.
Leave it for a few seconds, then roll the brush up and out to release the hair.
We have achieved root lift, direction and control to our shape.
So, next we will style the hair into the finish we are looking for.
I have chosen to use texture powder at the root area for added support as I am going
for a looser textured look.
Obviously, there are many ways to style a pompadour and I could've gone for a sleeker
finish using pomade.
But whatever finish I decide, the foundations are in place to achieve support and a longer
lasting style due to the drying techniques we have used.
A pompadour comb is an amazing tool to use to add separation.
It emulates the shape you can create using your fingers, but you don't run the risk of
being too heavy handed or transferring oils or product from your fingers to your finished shape.
Next, I will use hairspray to set the shape.
I don't apply hairspray directly to the hair.
I use the airflow of my dryer to direct it as this creates a better control and finish.
The dryer is set to cool when using this method.
To create a little more separation through the front, I will use a little matte clay
to define the ends on the hair to enhance the shape.
And here is the finished look.
As I said there are many ways to finish this shape but what I really wanted to cover was
the techniques used to build the framework, so that you can create the finished look of
your choice.
If you would like to see more of these styling videos for other haircuts, please let me know
in the comment section below as I would be really interested to hear what you think.
Please share this video if you found it useful as it really helps the channel
And as always, thanks very much for watching, see you next time.