John Talley with partzilla.com.
Today we're going to be working with our 2011 Sportsman 850.
Specifically, we're going to be looking at the braking system.
In particular, the caliper.
I'm going to start with the front right one.
What we're going to do is just go ahead and bring it up, pull the tire off and take a
look at it.
this one, we've already replaced the brake pads on and they were worn all the way down
and it was actually eating into the rotor.
So what I want to find out is why.
So I want to make sure that the calipers aren't hanging up and causing it to wear prematurely.
So, let's get her up in the air and get started.
Alright guys, so we've got her up in the air and like I said before we had replaced the
brake pads and in another video I'm going to show you how to replace this rotor as well.
But what I think is happening is the caliper is hanging up and prematurely wearing the
brake pads.
So what we're going to do is pop it back off.
Alright, while it's still attached to the carrier, we want to go ahead and take out
this little 5mm Allen on the back.
What that plug does when you remove it is it allows that pin to go back just a little
bit further so you can actually get the brake pad off the caliper.
If not, it makes it almost impossible.
Next, we want to go ahead and release the caliper and push the piston back into it just
a tick.
There we go.
There.
It released.
After that, go and remove our brake line.
Something odd about Polaris: sometimes they have a mixture of metric and U.S. standard
nuts and bolts.
And this happens to be one of those instances.
The banjo bolt on the brake line is actually a half inch.
So if you go to put a 13 on there it's probably going to strip it.
So you don't want to do that.
Of course since we're opening up the system to remove this, of course we're going to get
air in it.
So that will require us after we're finished rebuilding the caliper we're going to need
to re-bleed the system.
And I've done a video that walks you how to do that process so you'll need to reference
it to complete the job.
Alright.
there's your banjo bolt and the two crush washers.
Make sure you don't lose either one of those.
Now we can go ahead and remove the carrier from the hub.
And that's just two 15mm bolts.
Alright.
So let's head over to the teardown bench and get this pulled apart.
Okay, we've got her over on our teardown bench.
Specifically the vice because it makes this a little easier to deal with.
Now you can push it all the way in and remove your pads.
Next, slide it off of the carrier.
And what we're going to do to get the piston out of there is just use a punch.
Just put it straight through where your banjo bolt was and we're going to gently tap it
out.
Just like that.
Alright, and I think I was right.
That outer-- it's got two seals inside there and I'll pull them out in a minute-- you've
got the inner then you've got the outer that's supposed to be keeping the dirt out and I
can see that it's got some buildup right where that outer seal would be.
So I'm betting that that is what was causing it to kind of stick in there and not retract
just a tick once the pressure was taken off of it.
While you've got it broken down this far you want to inspect those rubber boots that are
on those two pins.
If you need to replace them, these are going to be your part numbers for those.
Ours look to be in pretty good shape so I'm not going to have to do that.
Alright, let's get that seal out.
Remember there's two of them: an outer one and then your pressure seal right there.
Alright, the bore looks okay.
I don't see any scuff marks or anywhere where it was freezing up completely.
what we're going to do is get some brake cleaner, go ahead and get that cleaned out and then
put in a new set of seals.
Alright so give me a few minutes to get all of this cleaned up and then we'll start reassembling
it.
Alright, so we've got her cleaned up.
The bore looks good.
The piston itself?
No real major wear marks anywhere so I think we're good to go on it.
So we've got our seals.
Get those reinstalled.
Careful not to put any dirt in your newly cleaned out caliper bore.
the one I'm putting in first is what I consider the compression one.
It's the one without any grooves in it.
It's non-directional so there isn't an inner or an outer.
There we go.
The one on the outside you can actually see a single groove right in the middle.
Just to make sure there's no dirt or dist in there.
Alright, before you put your piston in, you want to go ahead and coat those down with
some DOT4 brake fluid.
When you're inserting it, you want to make sure you're doing it evenly.
so it doesn't get stuck in there.
There we go.
And that went in a whole lot smoother than it came out.
Something that may have solved our problem.
Go ahead and bottom it out.
Now we can go ahead and get it put back on our backing plate.
Want to apply a little grease to both of those pins.
Next, this is a little bit tricky, but you need to get those boots back around the outside
of that edge on the pin to keep dirt out of there.
Alright.
Since we've got it out here, go ahead and get our brake pads back on.
Alright, from here we can go ahead and get it back on the machine.
Alright, go ahead and get her slid back on there.
Get those two 15mm back in place.
Go ahead and get that Allen cap back on there.
And let's get our brake line reinstalled with the banjo bolts.
Alright, well that completes the rebuild.
The left side is identical to it so it's the same exact procedure and actually the caliper
on the back it's built the same way.
The seals are a little bit bigger so it's not the same part number as the seals for
the front so you want to keep that in mind if you're having to rebuild the back.
But it's basically the same procedure.
Alright, from here all we need to do is bleed the brake system on it and we have a video
that shows you how to do that so if you would, reference it and that'll complete the job
for it.
Well listen, we appreciate you watching.
If you have any questions of comments or something you couldn't see me do just leave it in the
section below and of you need any of these parts come see us at partzilla.com.
Appreciate you watching.
Thank you.