Hello, John Talley here with Boats.net. Today we're going to be tackling the
output shaft seals on our Mercury Verado 200. Now actually I used a kit that
encompassed basically all the different input and output seals, and gaskets, and
O-rings over the whole unit. Now we've already done the input shaft, we've
already done the shift shaft, so now it's time to turn our attention to the output
shaft. Let me show you that kit that I used, and then we can get started. Now as
I mentioned earlier, with this one part number you get a complete seal kit which
addressed your input shaft housing and the seals and the o-rings and the
gaskets. I mean, everything, and as you can tell, my table's looking a little bit bare
because we've already done those projects. Now if you need help doing that,
why don't you look at this units playlist and we can walk you through how
to do the different sections. Today, we're just going to be focused on, like I said,
the output shaft. We've got the seals for it, we've got the O-rings. So all we've got to
do now let's pull the housing apart, get those broken down, and then we'll get
reinstalled. So let me go grab a couple of tools and we'll dive into this. Now
there are a few special tools you're gonna need to gather up before you can
tackle this project. First and foremost, you're going to need a good torque
wrench, one that can at least go to 210 foot-pounds. You're gonna need a bearing
carrier remover. I like the equipment from Marine Tech.
You're also gonna need a retaining ring remover, and Marine Tech makes those as
well. The other one that's really simple to
pick up just about anywhere is just a slide hammer set. You just want to make
sure that it can configure these arms in 180 degree fashion. Well now that we've
got our tools and our parts together, let's jump over there and knock this
thing out.
First thing you need to do is take out the check bolt or the vent up top. Get it
opened up, then go down below and remove the fill slash drain plug. This stuff
is pretty thick, so it's going to take a while for it to drain out. She's finished
draining. Now we need to remove that retaining ring, and the tool we're going
to use is a set from Marine Tech. And they actually have this adapter that
goes to your your ratchet or breaker bar, and to that you add whatever size tool
you need to remove your particular ring. So now that I've got this, let me go put
this together and we'll see if we can break this thing loose. This ring,
it actually looks to be in pretty good shape. It doesn't have the typical
corrosion that I see on a saltwater boat. This may have been a
freshwater motor from what I can tell. If yours is horribly corroded and no amount
of torque will break it loose, they actually have these little indentions in
the ring. And what you would do is drill those out with 5/16 and actually break
the ring apart to do it. You need to be careful if you have to go that far
and not damage the threads on the housing itself. If you drill through
those points, it's fairly easy to get in there with a pick and then break it down.
This one hopefully it will come apart and I won't have to do that. We have our
tools set up and ready to go, but before we come in here and try to remove it,
there is a tab on a washer right here that we need to bend back. That actually
holds up retaining ring in place where it can't work its way out. Let's get it
bent back and then we'll grab the tool and see if we can break this thing loose.
I only saw the one but just look around one more time to make sure there's no
other ones that are bent down. Looks like it, let's grab that removal tool and see
if this thing will bust loose. So let's see what she's got.
Looky there-- it looks like this one it's gonna come apart easily, which is not
always the case. So what we're going to use is the Marine Tech tool, but what
we're going to do is actually reconfigure it a little bit. It's
designed to reach in like this for most of the different lower units. What we did
is we reversed the center section, and we're going to flip it the other
direction where these are actually facing out. When I say these, I mean these
little arms. And that is going to grab to the outside of the carrier and then pull
it through. Now my left side has a good bite up into this section. This right
side? It is not holding on by much. So what we're gonna do is just add this
little door stopper if you will. Just put some pressure out. A little bit of a
workaround, but I think this is gonna work. Alright, before we release it all
the way, I want to go ahead and tilt it down because there's gonna be some
debris and junk and I don't want that to fall into the gearcase. There we go.
Leggo my eggo. Yeah, that's the kind of trash that we don't want to go back inside.
There we go. Make sure you do not lose this ring. Now
we want to carefully clean out the debris without blowing anything further
up into the lower unit. so here's where you just need to be patient, and get you
a little bit of contact cleaner, and just methodically get it to start spraying
out. And what we're gonna do next is actually clean up the the output shaft
because there's a fair amount of debris on it. A little bit more to clean up on
the splines on the output shaft, then we can turn our attention to the bearing
carrier. Now let's turn our attention to the bearing carrier, and with this
particular setup from Mercury we actually have to remove the
reverse gear. And to do so, we're going to clamp down on it with the vise right
here. I'm going to get a slide hammer puller with a couple of arms in 180
degrees from each other, reach in there and pop that bugger out. Now just reach
in there, spread those apart, see if we get into pop loose now. Yahtzee. Bearing
feels good, that one looks to be in good shape. So it looks like we can just get
this cleaned back up, and knock out those old seals, and then put in the new ones.
So everybody's cleaned up and good to go. I've inspected the gears, I've looked at
the bearings. All of that feels really good, so the only thing we need to
replace is just the seals. Now to do that we're going to use a punch to knock them
out, then we'll get a driver to actually push these back into place. Now of course,
Mercury has this big system of like three different special tools that they
are requiring to push it back in there. But no, we're gonna find a way around
that 'cause basically if we just make sure they need to sit flush and all the way
back up into the end of the carrier. So let's go ahead and knock out the
existing seals, then we'll make sure it's clean, get a little bit of Loctite on our
new ones, and then get them driven into place. Here they are. Just a little bit of
grease to clean out. Let me take care of that and then we'll get the new ones
pushed in there.
We've got it cleaned out and here's what's about to happen: we're gonna drive
in the first seal facing this direction after we put a little bit of Loctite on
it, until it bottoms out. Then we'll put Loctite on the second seal and it
actually goes in to the reverse, they end up being inside the carrier like this. As
I mentioned before, they've got this elaborate-- they being Mercury-- have this
elaborate setup where you pull this into position. We're just going to use a
standard driver, I'm actually using one from Motion Pro. The real trick here is
it needs to be really close to the outside of the seal without going past
it. Now 40 millimeter? That should do it.
Put some on the edge of the seal and then go inside
the carrier itself. Now this is going to be a little tricky to get it started
because it's way down in there, and we are out here. So we're just gonna go
ahead and drop it into place and then get it configured to where it's
facing with the bottom toward me. So what I'm looking at is this surface. And we're
just going to get it to bottom out against this bottom edge of the carrier
itself.
Don't overdo that 'cause we don't want to damage it. So we're looking good so far. A
little bit more Loctite on the seal number two. We'll drop it in, get it
squared up, and I'll drive it in. I think I've got it because the back of each
seal is flushed up next to each other. We're gonna put grease in between the
two seals and then we're also gonna add a fair amount to the tapered race on the
inside, because before we start to put the reverse gear back on, that bearing
needs to already be in there. Otherwise you're going to be pulling it back apart.
Down you go. So we're getting ready to press the reverse gear back in. Added
some grease around the inside of the bearing as well as to the reverse gear
itself. Got our new o-ring ready to go and our thrust washer. But, before we
actually press this back in, we want to make sure that this bearing is still
seated all the way inside of the carrier. Because I've actually pulled these apart
and it shifted out just enough and guess what? That threw off my shimming a long
way. Not a good thing. So let's get a large bearing driver, goes all the way
out to the edge of this bearing, make sure she seated all the way down. Then
we'll release it, get our thrust washer in, our O-ring in, and then press in our
reverse gear. Yeah she was down. But I'd rather be sure. Now what we're gonna do
go and get our O-ring on, our thrust washer.
And the way we're gonna drive this in without damaging it, use a little bit of
wood. And when you're doing this do it slowly. If you get even the slightest
inkling that it's going a little bit cockeyed, stop. Pop it back out and try
again. Touchdown. First you put in the thrust spacer, then
your shim, and now we can bring over the housing. Make sure that your drain bolt
is down at the bottom. Touchdown. Let's get our ring back in. This edge
facing up. There we go. Our retaining ring was actually in pretty good shape, I just
cleaned it up. Make sure when you're putting it back together that the off is
actually facing out towards you. Now it's time to torque it down and we're taking
this to 210 foot-pounds. You know we've got it bottomed, everything's still
feeling good. So let's go ahead and put some muscle on it. Whoo-hoo! Now we just
need to reach in and bend that tab back into the groove to where it'll hold that
retaining ring in place. Not that I'm worried about it moving, but this will
absolutely make sure that it can't back out. So that's going to wrap this one up.
We've now completed all the different seals and o-rings that were in that one
part number for the seal kit for this lower unit. The only thing I have left to
do now is just to refill it and then remount it to the outboard. Now if you
need help doing that, why don't you reference this unit's playlist and then I
can help you along on that. And if you need any parts for your boat
why don't you come see us at Boats.net and we can get you taken care of.
You have any questions or comments, leave them in the section below and I'll do my
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