How's it going guys? Welcome back to Steve's Small Engine Saloon. This is gonna be a nice
quick one for you, a nice simple video. This job is gonna take you about half a beer. This is
how to fine-tune the carburetor on a weed eater. This is if you've already done it tune-up on it,
it runs okay, it's got low speed, high speed screw on there. Do not do this on a chainsaw,
this is for weed eaters specifically. Obviously this model, this works on other weed eaters too.
If you have the low speed and high speed screw on their little handheld leaf blowers and whatnot,
don't do this on a chainsaw. Now I took the air filter cover off the air filter,
air filter housing off,
and put those nuts back on there to hold the carburetor back on just so I can get my camera
in there a little bit tighter so I can show you actually what I'm doing in there. When you do
this make sure all that stuff is back on. First thing I want you to do is make sure that this
line is out all the way. You don't want little tiny lines coming out of your weed eater like
this. It changes the load on your engine. You want to bump that line out so it's right down
at the cutter, right down so it's as long as that line can go. Next thing I want you to do,
get those limiter caps off of there. If you have this exact model right here,
what you're going to need is a flat screwdriver. A big flat screwdriver like this. You simply just
put that screwdriver in there like that and twist it and it'll pop that limiter cap off
of there. Same thing on the other side. Twist it and pop that limiter cap off of there. If you've
already been messing with those screws and then the thing doesn't run right,
here's what I want you to do. Take your little screwdriver and turn both of those screws in.
All the way in until they're lightly seated. Don't screw them in too tight, you can damage
the carburetor. Just turn them both in till they're nice and tight. I wouldn't say tight,
lightly seated. Now turn both of those screws back out one and a quarter turns. Now your
unit right there, with this model right here, should run idle fine at one and a
quarter turns and we're going to fine tune it from there. Next thing we're gonna do,
now we're gonna start this thing up. Now safety first. Couple safety precautions
right here. I have a three bay shop, I have all three of my doors open. I have
two huge windows on this side of the shop. I got a fan blowing through. I have better
ventilation in this shop than I do outside right now. Don't start this thing in an enclosed area.
Take it outside to do this. Put some earmuffs on to do this. It's not going to hinder you from
hearing what I'm gonna show you. You'll still be able to hear the difference in what I'm about to
show you with your muffs on. Now we're going to do the high-speed screw first. Now I know that
there's a lot of you guys out there that actually know what you're doing and you're gonna go,
"hey wait a second that's backwards, you do the low-speed first." I agree with that for chainsaws.
I do five or six of these a day. This works perfectly. Do the high-speed screw first. The
high-speed screw is the one that's furthest away from your engine and the one that's closest to
your air filter. Here's how we set that high-speed screw. Start the engine up. You already got it
warmed up. Punch that trigger down running as fast as it can. Hold that trigger down so it's running
as fast as it can. Little carb screwdriver. Start turning that high-speed screw in and out until you
find that spot where it's running the fastest. When you find that spot, start unscrewing the
screw slowly until you hear the RPMs just start to drop. When you hear those RPMs just start to drop,
start turning it back in again slowly till you hear those RPMs just come up to where it's making
that humming sound. That's where you want that high-speed screw set at. You're favoring the
rich side a little bit and I'm going to switch to a close-up right now with the audio on so
you can see me do that. You can see and hear me do that and how that's supposed to work.
So here's how we do the low-speed screw. Similar to the high-speed screw except
we're not punching that trigger down, we're just letting it idle. If it doesn't idle,
turn you're idle screw in until it does idle. Keep on going in and in and in until
it is idling. If your line head is turning don't worry about that right
now. Just don't pull that trigger. Let it idle even if it's idling a little fast.
Similar to the high-speed screw, we're gonna start turning that low-speed screw in and
out until we find that little sweet spot where it's idling the fastest. Now start turning
that low-speed screw out very slowly until you hear those RPMs just start to drop. Now
leave it there. Not like the high-speed screw, don't turn it back in. You want that low-speed
screw turned out to where that RPM is just starting to drop. That's perfect. Favoring
it on the rich side a little bit. You're gonna have great acceleration when you
actually punch that trigger. It's gonna come right up to RPM. That's where you want that.
If your line heads still turning, just unscrew that idle screw until the clutch just stops
engagement. You want it running, you know, fast enough but so your line heads not
still turning. If it doesn't react like how I just told you it's gonna react, there's
something else wrong with this unit. This is just for fine-tuning. And that's it. The little
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