The year is 1991 and things are heating up
for Michael Jackson, as team MJ prepared to relaunch him onto
the world stage once again with the release of 'Dangerous'.
With the musical project came a whole new sound that Jackson hoped would
reinvigorate his superstar appeal and establish his reign as the King of Pop
for the 1990s.
However, the new decade signalled evolving tastes in fashion and style,
with new rules emerging in the world of show business.
The opulence and glamor of 80s excess made
way for brazen sex appeal or contrasted by stark minimalism.
Individuality and a signature style played less importance, as the fast paced nature
of manufactured pop proved that music stars were now just as throwaway
as the fashion trends hitting the runway.
Fashionable stars including Madonna, George Michael,
and Jackson's little sister, Janet, proved to marketers that stars of music were no
longer just outlandish figures of rock and roll, but could be utilized to set
lucrative trends for a whole new generation of consumers.
With this in mind, artists became increasingly sophisticated
when it came to their next big fashion statement as to appear in the dreaded
'worst dressed list' could lead to career self sabotage.
Former underground acts swapped their thrifted creations for designer labels,
and employed top fashion stylists, makeup artists,
photographers and directors as their wealth and commercial influence grew.
At the same time, former elitist circles
within high end fashion were crossing over into the mainstream,
collaborating with music stars to build global brand awareness and attach
themselves to the world's most famous and glamorous of lifestyles.
A new landscape emerged where celebrities were competing with fashion models
for the covers of magazines and in turn, the private lives of, quote,
supermodels were filling the pages of celebrity gossip columns.
In the 1980s, Michael Jackson proved that video truly killed the radio star.
With the explosion of music television,
the artist's image would play a significant role in marketing his music
on this new visual platform. Jackson himself igniting a red leather
jacket and single glove fashion craze during the heights of Thriller-mania.
An artist's fashion forwardness had become its own currency and more closely linked
to their commercial viability than ever before,
and according to the experts,
Michael Jackson's signature look had gone out of style years ago.
This was never so evident as during
the 1991 Academy Awards, when Michael made a surprise appearance
sporting a characteristically Jackson look. A bejeweled blazer, glistening brooches,
a heavy buckle belt and his trademark loose waves.
Fashion commentators agreed that although
flashy, the look was tired and repetitive. Reminiscent of the excessive amount
of sparkle you'd expect during his 80s glory,
rather than resembling a modern pop performer.
Michael Jackson ran the risk of looking stale and out of touch upon the release
of his most ambitious record to date. Fashion icon, pop rival and date during
the festivities, Madonna, made her thoughts known when it came to Michael's ailing
fashion sense. Stating in both magazine and television interviews that she
explicitly told him that he must overhaul his whole look, get rid of the white socks
and loafers, and reinvent himself with a bold, much shorter haircut.
There was talk, I believe, that you were going to restyle him.
You didn't like the way he looked.
What did you have in mind for him?
I really wanted him to cut his hair.
I think sometimes it's good to cut your hair and start all over again.
That was my main thing.
I wanted him to get a really short haircut,
and I wanted him to get rid of those loafers and the white socks.
I just thought, try something new.
The master of reinvention herself,
Madonna continuously proved her commercial staying power through her constant visual
evolution, sustaining the public's intrigue through her many guises.
Now a fashion darling,
appearing on the cover of American Vogue and in many high-end editorial spreads,
Madonna offered up her valuable fashion connections to Jackson in hopes that they
would help him find a whole new sense of style for his next record.
Although Michael Jackson may have not been
thrilled with Madonna's public statements, it was clear that a change was needed.
As a SKY magazine staff writer commented, quote, Michael himself seems
to have realized that his clothes are, to be frank, a touch embarrassing.
His style is not bad
it's just plain bad.
In the spring of 1991,
calls were made from Jackson's team to the world's hottest fashion houses,
from Isaac Mazrahi to Thierry Mugler, Jean Paul Gaultier
to Azzedine Alaia,
Giorgio Armani to Gianni Versace to just name a few.
The proposition was bold to send in their own custom designs for a, quote,
revolutionary new look for Michael Jackson.
Gabriella Forte, Vice President of Giorgio Armani,
acknowledged that Jackson had been in contact.
It was just for fun, she said, quote,
Nothing has been seriously discussed or done or put in the works.
A spokesman from Gaultier said, quote, It would be exciting to work
with a performer like Michael Jackson, and everybody knows that he's been talking
to designers and some directors about his new image.
With fashion's most creative minds putting their heads down to devise a whole new
look for the world's biggest pop entertainer.
Many radical ideas were brought into the mix. However, few have surfaced.
Although initial designs
by Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano and Helen Storey were later
featured in a SKY magazine spread. Gaultier envisioned a sports-inspired
reinvention in a cropped monogrammed bomber jacket.
You will wear it over a white vest and salmon satin corset,
ending a padded quilted cod piece that shines under the spotlights.
This will be worn under a chap type mini skirt and tight leggings.
Michael, don't forget the heavy boots.
If cod pieces, miniskirts and chaps
weren't enough, Gaultier's second suggestion took Jackson on a walk on the wild side,
transforming you into a wilder beast. Trousers/boots in fake leopard skin
with microphone tail and cape, bomber blouson in iridescent nylon
with bright feathered collar and a ravishing cat mask
to complete this wild look.
British designer, Vivienne Westwood, visualized Jackson as a witch doctor
figure, resplendent in a fake fur cloak over tight red leather trousers and red T
shirt printed with her trademark smiling cherubs.
I also imagine he runs around a lot on stage so the cloak is held together
with bows so he could easily pull bits off to cool down.
Ordinarily I'd finished the outfit off with thigh high boots.
As I'm keen on a touch of femininity
for men, however, he might have trouble moving in them.
John Galliano decided to give Michael Jackson's famous feet a makeover.
I wanted a complete transformation
for Michael, he said, something way over the top.
My inspiration for these shoes are quite simply his dancing feet.
The shoes are fashioned from glass with images of Michael's illustrious past
underneath. The heels are miniature Michaels in gold for extra glamour.
The overall effect is very fairytale, which is how I see Michael.
Although they are intricate and skilled in its design, it is unclear that Jackson
would ever be able to wear, yet perform, in such an elaborately decorated shoe.
Newcomer designer, Helen Storey, seemed more
concerned with toning Michael Jackson's image down and making him more real.
Quote I think Michael has this mystic
quality that fascinates his audience, but at the same time alienates him.
Basically, I would like to make him less freaky and generally happier.
Her outfit was inspired by 'Joseph and his Technicolor Dream Coat'.
Story explains, quote, the fact that it's plastic gives a futuristic feel,
it's also very bright, a reaction against
all that negative black he's been wearing for so long.
Storey was also adamant about what she
would love to do to really change Michael's image.
Quote I'd cut his hair really short
the way he has it now, all long and straightened.
It's really ghastly.
It's all part of his rejection of being black.
However, none of these designs ultimately made the cut, as in June 1991,
press outlets announced that superstar designer, Gianni Versace, had won the race
to dress Michael Jackson for his new video, album cover and possibly future tour days.
Michael apparently choosing the path of Bruce Springsteen, Eric Clapton, Sting,
George Michael and other rock stars in making Versace his designer of choice.
On the subject of Versace winning
the contract, rival designer Galliano commented, quote,
I would love to see Michael dressed in Versace - the womenswear, that is.
A Versace spokesman confirmed that a two day shoot took place in Los Angeles,
as well as a still photo shoot by top fashion photographer Herb Ritts,
with all of Jackson's clothes by Versace. During his album promo shoot by famed
director, David Lynch, Michael Jackson's new revolutionary look
surprisingly didn't encompass a radically shorter hairstyle.
Despite Madonna's constant calls to just cut it off.
Jackson sported a paired back, slicked down style with his tresses tucked behind his
ears, accompanied by his grown in sideburns.
The chosen outfit comprised of a red zip
up shirt with an embroidered black leather jacket.
Both may have been designed by Versace, but it is unclear from the few behind
the scenes shots from the video, that ultimately focused
on Michael Jackson's eyes rather than his new fashion sense.
During Michael's much anticipated shoot
with fashion photographer for the stars Herb Ritts, Jackson was photographed in a pair
of colorful, heavily embroidered Versace pants.
But apart from this,
it appears that Michael Jackson may have been inspired by the designs presented
to him, but ultimately decided to have his own
longtime designers, Michael Bush
and Dennis Tompkins, create the outfits worn throughout the shoot.
This included metallic gold pants
with a matching blazer and cuban heeled boots, as well as a silver version
that included a denim style jacket, but was ultimately not photographed.
The design duo also created an elaborate
all black leather fencing inspired costume with quilting detailing on the chest
and legs. A design that presumably was adjusted and refabricated
for Michael Jackson's Dangerous World tour the following year.
Head-to-toe all black leather looks appeared to be a theme throughout
the shoot as Jackson ditched his signature embroidered military-inspired ensembles
for striking motocross inspired looks, denoting Michael's fierce machine-like
performance ability, with several other design sketches playing upon this theme.
The only custom-made outfits that have surfaced outside of Michael Jackson's
collaboration with Tompkins and Bush were created by fashion designer Thierry Mugler.
Known for his theatrical star-studded
outlandish runway designs,
he too was heavily influenced by motocross
design. Creating a jacket for Jackson made
from cow hide with insert MJ and silver leather on the front and back,
with the shoulders featuring Chrome motor detailing.
The famed designer also created a heavy
black leather jacket with extensive trapunto stitching on the sleeves
and chest with additional metal embellishments on the waist, cuffs,
chest and shoulders, together with matching leather pants.
Each garment contains a label
from Thierry Mugler, Paris, and was created by Mugler for Michael Jackson,
especially for him to wear during this photo shoot with Herb Ritts.
However, both elaborate designs ensembles
were ultimately never worn during Michael's much anticipated shoot,
possibly due to how restrictive and bulky the items would have been to wear
for a performer known for his sleek, agile dance ability.
Instead, Jackson paired back in his
styling, sporting a sleek back ponytail and a simple cotton vest,
monochromatic pants, simple backdrops and shot in black and white.
This became the revolutionary new look
the King of Pop was looking for, and it didn't require big name designers
extra influence. Signalling a change was in the air and a new era
of Michael Jackson befitting of the 1990s was upon us.
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