- What's going on everybody?
Welcome to Chemical Guys Detail Garage.
the owner of this FR-S brought it to us
because as it was sitting outside, their neighbor decided
they're going to use some spray paint
and all that overspray has now landed on the side
of the vehicle as well as the hood.
So today we thought we would show you the easiest way
to remove that without causing any kind of imperfections,
and also without having to bring on a polisher.
So let's get started.
So, like I mentioned,
there's a ton of contamination in the pores of the paint.
I'm going to lean down here and just show you guys
real quick demonstration what it sounds like.
You can hear it sounds very rough,
and that's all the contaminants stuck on the pores
of the paint as well as on the surface of the clear coat
and it gives that really rough sound.
And it also has a very rough look,
but overall, there's going to start to dull out the finish
of the car giving it more of a cloudy look.
So to start we're going to use our EcoSmart
which is a waterless wash solution
that we've already diluted in our Mr. Sprayer.
And we're just going to clean away any
of the heavier loose debris.
Just so we're not grinding that in
as we move on to our next step.
And we're also using our green Workhorse microfiber towel.
And I like to start in the center work my way out,
but as we wipe we're going to roll the towel
which creates a new edge.
This way we're not grinding any of these abrasive particles
into the paintwork causing scratches.
But the paint feels really rough.
The towel kind of drags on it
and it sounds pretty grainy.
So it's important to remove this kind of stuff,
not only because it looks awful,
but also this is going to start clogging up the paintwork
and this is going to make it easier for dust
and all kinds of other faults to stick to the surface.
So by cleaning it, this is going to give it the best chance
of looking its finest for as long as possible.
Now that the surface is clean and dry,
we're going to moving on to the process
of removing the over spray
as well as any kind of contaminants
that are stuck in the pores of the paint.
And to do that, we're going to be using our medium clay bar.
This is basically a sticky substance
that pulls foreign debris out of the pores
and also gives it a really slick finish.
And this is a necessary step
if you're going to be polishing the vehicle
or if you're moving on to applying ceramic
or any kind of glaze-sealant-wax combination.
And the reason for this is because;
one you don't want to lock in any kind of junk
such as you know, overspray,
but also this makes it easier for your coatings
to bond to the surface.
And if you're going to be polishing,
this is going to prevent any kind of pigtail swirls
or clotting up your pad very quickly
which would cause marring
or won't give you the desired effect.
So the clay wire is just a tool that you use
when you're doing these processes.
It's not something you need to do
every time you wash the vehicle
or every time in detail a vehicle, but it's something
you want to do at least once a year just to ensure
the paint is nice and refreshed.
It's also very clean.
And the best way to do it is to tear off a small piece of it
and knead it up into a patty
about the size of three fingers.
And then we're going to be using our Clay Luber,
which cleans as it lubricates.
And you want to use a generous amount just to ensure
that you're not marring the surface.
But as I mentioned, this also cleans as you work,
which you can hear it sounds kind of rough.
But as it starts to pull contamination
out of the pores of the paint, it'll start to get slick.
It'll get quiet and that's when you know when to move on.
In some cases, if the vehicle is really contaminated
or it's neglected, this is a process you might have to do
just a couple times to ensure
that the surface is completely clean.
And also a lot of people ask us,
do you need to replace this?
Or how many clay bars do you need for one vehicle?
If you use it properly,
meaning that you tear off a small piece
and you knead that up and roll it as necessary,
one clay bar is plenty to do 10 to 15 vehicles.
You need to see all the contamination
already picking up there.
But basically, if it drops on the ground,
you're for sure going to throw this away
because this is just like a piece of gum
where it'll start picking up the debris from the ground.
And if you were to put that on your vehicle,
it's going to start scratching or marring very easily.
But also if you roll it, knead it continually
until you can't find a clean side
that's also when you know when it's time to replace it.
But like I mentioned, by using a small piece,
this one will save you clay bar
because say you drop the whole bar,
then you have to replace the whole bar,
but also this gives you extra just in case
you run out halfway during a job,
or halfway during your detail.
This way you don't have just half of your hood
or half of your vehicle decontaminated.
But you can see how the Clay Luber
turns a little bit brown
or a little kinda milky or cloudy.
That's because like I mentioned,
it's cleaning as we're claying
So we have some of the contamination on the bar
but also some of it is running off.
And that's what gives it that dirty look.
And already to paint feels a lot smoother.
It's very slick.
And you can use this on your painted services.
You can use it on glass, chrome
such as your wheels and bumpers.
Essentially anything that's painted, shiny or clear.
Look at all the contamination.
This is all the overspray mixed with the contamination
and fallout that gives your car that really cloudy look
and that really rough feeling.
So I'm going to continue the same process
to extract all the contamination of the pores
of the paint on this FR-S.
Now that I've just finished completing
the clay bar process, luckily I had my buddy Jason here
to help me out.
It's always great to have an extra set of hands
especially on jobs like this,
but I'm going to move on to actually thoroughly cleaning it
using some wipeout.
And what this will do is just remove any last residue,
any body oils or fingerprints,
just to ensure that the service is totally clean
before we move on to our next step,
which is going to be protecting the surface.
This way we don't have any future water spots
or any kind of contamination
or overspray stain in paint job.
And this will just wipe away any of the areas
we may have missed with the towels,
as well as any body oils or fingerprints.
And again, the best way to make sure that your coatings last
is make sure that the surface is completely clean.
And what we've chosen to use today is HydroCharge.
And this is a ceramic coating spray
which is super easy to use.
All you have to do is basically spray directly
onto your applicator pads
such as our blue microfiber applicators.
And we'll just start by spreading it out.
And just like I mentioned before,
I like to work from the center out,
using a crosshatching pattern,
covering about 50% of our last pass to ensure
that we haven't missed any spots or any high spots,
but a little bit goes a long way.
So it spreads very thin, very fine coat.
And if need be, you can apply multiple coats
or come back with HydroSlick
or a combination of glaze, sealant or waxes.
But this is going to give the paintwork
a very hydrophobic finish,
and it's going to make it harder for water spots
and any kind of other contamination as well as dirt
and debris to stick to the surface
while also enhancing gloss.
And what's also great is it has leveling agents
to fill in micro scratches and swirls
for that flawless finish.
So there's no need to polish the vehicle,
you can simply move on right after cleaning
to give your car that ultimate layer of protection.
And again, it's very easy to use.
You just going to take your time
and spread it out in a very fine coat.
Just those two sprays have covered
essentially half of the hook here.
And you can use this on your paintwork
to protect it against harmful UV rays
or any other kind of harsh elements
that you may face as the car is parked outside.
And this bonds almost immediately
so there's no need to let it haze or to sit on the surface
for more than two minutes.
And as you see here, I'm using the crosshatch pattern
just to make sure that we haven't missed any spots.
There's no high spots or buildup.
And this is also going to make it easier for the wipe off.
A thinner coat will be easier to work with.
And also if you think about it, only that initial layer
that's touching the surface is what we're using.
So there's no need to put heavy buildup
or a lot more area.
So now I'm going to let this bond to the surface
and I'm going to have Jason come back
and help me out with the rest of the hood
as well as the rest of the vehicle
and then we're going to get this thing look at its best.
But in the meantime, you guys can check out these products
on our website, chemicalguys.com or local Detail Garage.
If you guys appreciated today's video,
be sure to give it a thumbs up,
drop your comments down below for any future videos
or anything else you guys want to talk about.
We'll see you next time.