Hi, I'm Mike with Kimray. Today I'm going to show you how to repair a 2" Kimray Treater Valve.
Start by securing the valve and a vise. Unscrew the nipple with drip pot
attached and remove the bleed valve from the drip pot. If you have an original hub
design you will need to remove the trunnion plug. Loosen the stuffing box
nut loosen the set screw almost completely and use a punch to remove the shaft.
If you have a new style hub design, there is no set screw and so you will
need to remove the nut and washer and simply slide the hub off.
Remove the stuffing box assembly from the shaft.
Remove the follower, teflon packing, and packing ring from the stuffing box assembly.
Keep the follower as it is not included in the repair kit. Remove the
gasket from where the trunnion plug was. If the shaft is bent it may be necessary
to cut the shaft off then tap the trunnion shaft out through the stuffing box.
Remove the four bolts from the bonnet and remove the bonnet.
If the bonnet is stuck, pry it gently with a flathead screwdriver.
Remove the snap rings,
the pin, and the trunnion hub. Loosen the diaphragm bolt and remove the stem
assembly from the body.
Pull the pin from the stem assembly. Pull the stem through the diaphragm bolt.
Remove the diaphragm. Remove the retainer from the diaphragm. Remove the bolts
connecting the upper housing to the lower body. If the upper housing is stuck
tap it with a hammer and pry it apart with a flathead screwdriver look it over
and loosen the diaphragm assembly with a wrench. Remove the pivot ratio plug and
seat disc. You'll need to use a flathead screwdriver to pry out the seat if you
have the old-style valve. If it's a newer style it will come right out.
Remove the diaphragm then the diaphragm plate. Inspect the removable seat.
It's ideal if you don't have to remove this; however, if you spot damage or a
potential leak path removal is necessary. Unscrew the removable seat with a Kimray
seat wrench. This can be very difficult. If you have trouble getting the seat out
you may need to take it by your local Kimray repair shop for additional help.
Lastly, remove the gasket from the removable seat.
With the valve disassembled, now we can inspect the parts for damage.
We will be inspecting every part except for the diaphragms, which are included in the repair kit.
Inspect to make sure the main trunnion shaft is not bent. If it is bent it needs
to be replaced. If you do replace the seat, make sure there's no corrosion
where the bottom of the seat meets the body. If it is corroded there, it won't
seal properly so you need to get new valve body. The drip pot and needle
valve also need to be examined for clogs or damaged. Use an air nozzle to blow out
particles from the inside of the body as any loose particles left in the seat
area could allow for leakage. Blow out the drip pot as well. Finally, flip the
upper housing over and verify that the communication hole is clear and free of debris.
Run all the parts through a parts washer. If you don't have access to one
clean each component as good as possible with degreaser and a wire brush.
Take special care to clear out any blockage in the pivot plug communication holes.
With all of our parts cleaned now we're ready to reassemble the valve. Here are
the components that come in the repair kit. Apply all-purpose grease to the seat
area of the body. Flip the removable seat upside down and
apply grease then attach the gasket.
Apply grease to the gasket as well.
Install the removable seat into the body using a seat wrench and be careful not
to over-tighten the seat as this can tear the gasket. Secure the diaphragm
plate in the vise upside down and place the diaphragm on top. Place the disk on
to the diaphragm then place the rubber seat into the disc. Use a flathead
screwdriver to work the rubber seat into place place the ratio plug on to the
disc, beveled side facing up, and insert the pivot into the ratio plug.
Tighten the pivot with a wrench. Return the body to the vise and place the diaphragm
assembly on the body. Place the diaphragm housing on top of the diaphragm, rotated
90 degrees counterclockwise from the valve body inlet and start the nuts and
bolts by hand. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to avoid any
misalignment. Insert the stem into the diaphragm bolt and then the bolt into
the retainer with the bevel side facing down. Place the assembly into the
diaphragm and then put the pin into the stem hole.
Hold the stem pin in place and install the stem diaphragm assembly into the
diaphragm plate. Tighten the assembly using a wrench but don't over tighten as
this can strip the threads. We will be installing the new hub design to replace
the old version. Make sure the flat side of the link hub is at the bottom.
Next, insert the pin through the stem and hub link and secure it with two new snap rings.
Lift the link hub slightly and place the bonnet over the stem assembly
and onto the stem diaphragm assembly. Align the bonnet with the direction of
the valve inlet. Tighten the four bolts in a crisscross pattern to avoid misalignment.
Grease the shaft and insert the thicker end into the bonnet opposite
the side of the equalizing pressure port.
Apply grease to both sides of the new gasket and install it on the plug, making
sure the gasket rests against the shoulder of the plug, then tighten the
plug with a wrench. Slide the washer onto the stem. Grease both sides of the gasket
and place it on the stuffing box. Hand tighten the stuffing box into the bonnet.
Now install the packing ring with teflon packing, the follower, and the nut onto
the shaft. Tighten until snug. If you have the new style valve, the assembly will be
slightly different. After installing the shaft, slide the bushing into the
trunnion plug. Add the o-ring to the outside then grease both the bushing and ring.
With this design there are no gaskets, so if you're converting from
old style to new style, make sure both gaskets have been removed
from the bonnet. Thread the trunnion plug into the bonnet and tighten with a wrench.
Next, put the smaller ring inside the stuffing box and insert the bushing.
Install the o-ring around the outside then grease both our rings.
Thread the stuffing box into the bonnet and tighten with a wrench.
Install the new hub with the arm attachment slot facing away from the
bonnet. Attach the washer and nut tighten until snug. Thread the nipple and drip
pot into the equalizing pressure port and screw in the lower part of the bleed valve.
Complete the assembly by attaching the lever bar and the weight.
Thanks for watching. If you have further questions contact your local Kimray store or authorized distributor.