Seeing your daughter take the World Cup,
you can't pay for that.
She relentlessly won't give up.
She was a real paradigm shift, changed the women's game.
This should be an Olympic sport.
I need to feel good and be happy to perform well,
it just took me a really long time to figure that out.
I grew up in Runcorn,
which is a small town near Liverpool.
When I was three years old, I saw Catherine Destivelle
climbing on the TV.
Shauna sat on my knee watching this
and she just looked up and went...
"Dad, I want to do that!"
And that is where it all started.
It was always fun, it's always had to be fun.
He's always bringing this like positive, silly energy.
He would give me challenges.
You can use anything for your hands,
but nothing for your feet.
Just really ridiculous stuff.
Teddy bear toys, hide them somewhere on one of the walls.
Lots of giggles, lots of laughter.
After that I was just obsessed and totally hooked.
When she started competing, she just loved it.
Oh, we've been everywhere to watch her
and been the loud ones at the back.
Go on! That's it! And the other one!
At that point in time,
there wasn't many women climbing
and then you've got basically the best climber in the country
is a short 17-year-old girl.
And I remember turning to my dad and saying,
"Dad, I want to be world number one."
And I remember specifically saying,
"Please don't tell anyone
because I'm embarrassed by this."
And my dad just said, "This is possible."
I was at home and it was the Olympics.
Here is Jessica Ennis.
The poster girl for these Games.
I basically sat and watched Jess absolutely smash it.
Ennis coming through for glory, a gold medal for Great Britain!
Yeah, emotional, I guess.
This is like
one of the biggest moments in sporting history.
So much pressure on her and she has delivered.
I was like, "Hmm like could I be as physically strong
and as mentally capable as Jess in climbing?"
The transition from this free spirit
into being the structured athlete,
it was challenging,
and I think I lost my way in some respects.
I think a lot of it was my mental approach.
It was like, "Okay, I need to be serious with this."
And I was like, "Is this fun anymore?"
It wasn't possible, me figuring it out on my own,
like, I needed a team around me.
If you can have people who remind you who you are
because they know who you really are, that's...
Yeah, that's a good place to be in.
She is prepared for the boulders.
I don't work well in like, a boring, monotonous routine.
I need to be smiling, I need to be laughing.
Whoever loses their balance first is the loser.
Yes!
And then I started training with Leah.
She just has the sense of play about her.
Dirty Dancing lift.
Watching us it looks like we're goofing around
and in all honesty, we are.
Is it Acro-Yoga or something?
Yeah, they're all bonkers.
You're so wonky.
What we're doing is translatable onto the wall.
It's the freedom of movement
to get yourself from the bottom to the top.
So if you're in a happy place,
you can actually express yourself really freely.
And it just rekindled all of that joy from climbing
that I used to have.
And then Shauna goes out and wins competitions.
Laser focus.
Shauna could take this here!
This could be huge for her!
I've won 11 World Cups,
like every single one of them is important to me.
The memories that I hold most vividly are
the fun bits where we're laughing and smiling.
You'll see her come down off a problem,
and that sort of thing and she'll turn, she'll smile.
I'll go, "Yeah, she's still enjoying it."
I'm still kind of mind blown,
that my sport's part of the Games and I've qualified.
Traditionally a boulderer but training so hard
for this combined event.
Understanding how to be a good athlete
across speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing
is a huge challenge.
Being a total beginner,
I was really nervous about speed climbing.
Yeah, nice.
It's understandable when you try something new.
Honestly now I absolutely love speed climbing,
it's so much fun.
Oh, my God. Finally.
If I run a PB in speed,
like that emotion is so raw and so real.
That's satisfying.
That's the reason why I've not got bored in all these years.
I think it really does come down
to finding something that you enjoy and you love.
And that can kindle a fire that can just keep growing.
Go on! That's it!