In this video we are going to continue the CAD model we were talking from last
video, and specifically talk about the production process, and how to make this
ring into this one. Are you ready? Let's get started!
if you haven't watched this video how to make this model. Don't forget to watch it
first. This video it's about the production process. Let's starting with
3D printing they are different kind of 3D printer there. I use B9 creation, and
this is the result image that I would like to show you. After that, I cast them
and get rid of the sprue, and this is the starting for finish. At a very beginning
you're going to find out on the casting, you have some line creating by the
printing layers. Depends on the resolution that you have, you always will end up
with some small lines and those lines are easy to remove by sandpaper. Here's my
homemade sandpaper by wrapping a stick with 280 grit sandpaper. Make sure they
are flat and tight, and I'm just going to some larger area you don't have to worry
too much inside, because my stone is not transparent. I just need to make sure
outside is nice and polished before I actually get into the stone setting. You
can see I try to smooth out as much as possible, and then you can go a little
bit finer after this one. You can go up to 400 grits. Anything after that I think
it's just personal preference. I would like to use polish machine to do the
rest of the job.
After that, I will use the brown polish wheel. I bought this from the Rio Grande,
and here's I will put the link below for you to check out them. Everybody have
the different preference. I've been using this for a while this is a little bit
abrasive. If you have minor scratches, it will be easy to remove. Be really careful on
one thing. Anything is abrasive that creates heat, so if your stone is heat
sensitive like opal, then you will be really careful once you have a stone in
there using this wheel, and I will show you just in few minutes. Now we finished
the outside. Let's clean the inside a little bit. You may have some rough
surface left from the casting. we don't have to polish in size because
it's opaque stone, however, I would like to remove any of the bumpy surface
inside if possible. so here I'm trying to use the ball bar to clean up inside, and
try to rough the surface a little bit. My stone is very soft so if inside is not
completely flat, or you have any of the imperfection close to the edges, when you
tries to push the metal against it, you will crack the stone and double make
sure the size is correct. Using the plastic hammer on the ring mandrel to
shape the ring. If your ring is not smooth you can use the file, and I
usually use half round file to smooth out the bottom, especially where you had
a sprue in there. Sometimes when you just cut off the sprue, it is not smooth
so I want to make sure the ring shank is tapered down smoothly. I just wanted
to work on it a little bit. The same rubber wheel you can shape it into a
smaller size or use the old one. You can shape the robber wheel with
the a piece of old file, and use that for shaping it. Here I want to make sure
all the corners are nice and round, so it's not gonna cut into the finger or scratch
the finger when the customer wear it. Once again, it's a lot of back and forth
filing smoothing and make sure everything's a nice and perfect before
we get into the polish machine, and I just realized my focus is on the stone
sitting behind. it not necessarily on the ring, so I apologize for not super focus
the ring. Here, I tried to fit it and see if that fit well. The ring looks fit
really well. Let's get on the buffing wheel, and again sorry to lose the focus.
We want to polish every part. I was using the white diamond and then I jumped into
a Fabuloustre, and I will put the link here in the bottom, and this is the images of
the polish compounds that I was using. now let's get to the stone setting. First of
all, examine and make sure everything's are nice and polished because the wall
is pretty thick for one millimeter or close to 0.8 millimeter, so I like to
use parallel pliers to bend them first because it's almost impossible just push
it against it. The regular bazel pushier is not going to work because
the thick wall looking so I try to get it as close as possible that I can still
slice the stone in. So pretty much is the top I try to bend it. The film is in
2X to 3X speed, so you don't have to sitting the whole section, but I
just want to show you some key point of it, so there will be a lot of trying
fitting. It won't be done at just once. At final we put the stone, and I would
like to tight it a little bit more because of the thickness on the wall I
won't use able to use the bezel pusher, so I actually use the hammer to hammer
on it. Be really careful for the angle that you are hammering it. If you hit the
stone the stone will crack right there. What I do is I use my finger to cover
the stone so if it does hit the stone it will hit my finger first. You rather to
have a blues finger instead of a cracking stone. Don't try to hammer
it too hard at once. What we like to do is bring it in close one by one, so you
want to hit a three o'clock and then nine o'clock and twelve o'clock and come
back to six o'clock. This orientation multiple times. You don't want to
push for example three o'clock all the way so your stone will be crooked, or you
won't be centered. Make sure you hit it at the right angle. You don't want it
the corner to hit the stone, and sometimes it is really helpful if you
have a smaller face of the hammer instead of a big face. When we get into
the tight corner instead of using a hammer, I will get the tracing hammer and
with the tracing tool, and then that will have the better control. So I will
having a hammer hitting on the end of the tracing hammer to push the stone
down to tight it, and this is actually the point you tight the stone, and make
sure that the stone is not moving. Then we can go into the polish process. Once
again I'm using the rubber wheel here. The rubber wheel will create heat and
this is really heat sensitive stone, so make sure that your finger is always
somehow testing the temperature of the ring that you are setting. You can see my
finger is always sitting there to make sure that it's not getting too hot. If I
feel is too warm or too hot I will really quickly to stop it. We want to get
rid of all the hammer marks that we have, and that's why I have this thick wall so
I can kind of smooth it out into the angle that I'd like, and I like to
have everything nice and round and more like an egg shape, so you can see that I
try to getting to not only remove the hammer mark, but also smooth it out to
the side, and once it is tight, and everything is smooth out, we can go into
the polish one more time. I'm using the white diamond first and then fabulous
start to shine up the ring things we already have it pretty polish and always
need to have a high polish before you set a stone. So when we the second time
when we polish we just need to polish off where we leave the hammer marks.
so your stone has the less chance to get too much heat.
Thank you for watching there are more making videos those linked here. I hope
you enjoy. Please like, share, and comment on my video let me know how I am doing and
what else you would like to see in my channel. Thank you for watching I will
see you next.