Pope Francis has developed a reputation for being a bit...
Unconventional.
Since his papacy began in 2013,
he’s done away with ring kissing.
"Because he wants to be humble."
Throne sitting.
"Pope Francis used the simple white chair."
Pope mobiling.
"Refusing to use his bulletproof vehicles."
He’s broken a ton of centuries-old traditions.
Pushing for modern updates across the Catholic church.
But it’s not just what Pope Francis does that sets him apart from past popes.
It’s what he wears.
From elaborate embroidered scenes to more subtle color cues.
Papal clothing has always been laden with symbolism.
And it’s is how Pope Francis communicates some of his most basic beliefs and intentions.
Most of the time, Pope Francis wears this.
When greeting crowds,
meeting dignitaries,
Basically anything other than performing mass.
It’s made up of a cassock, an ankle length coat.
A fascia, tied around his waist.
A zucchetto, which translates to “skullcap” for obvious reasons.
And this, a pellegrina: a cape of sorts.
Which, unfortunately, often blows in the wind
prompting an ongoing heated debate over whether or not to add velcro.
Anyway...
The pope’s clothing is roughly the same as a cardinal’s below him,
or bishops below them,
Except, all of the pope’s clothing is, of course, white.
The biblical color of angels and Jesus’ robes.
Symbolizing innocence, purity, divinity.
This outfit has been roughly the same since at least the 1200s.
And since the late 1700s, it’s even been made by the same family of tailors.
But each pope adds their own specific flair.
Compare Pope Francis to Pope John Paul II.
He was two Popes ago.
We couldn't find a Pope Benedict doll,
probably because he wasn't pope for very long.
Even in doll form, the differences are easy to see.
Pope Francis’ fascia is plain,
instead of being fringed and bearing his coat of arms.
And his crucifix is iron, as opposed to gold.
Francis also keeps it plain when it comes to outerwear,
opting for a white peacoat, instead of the traditional winter mozzetta
lined with ermine fur.
That’s this extremely cute weasel-like animal.
And then there’s the shoes.
Popes usually pick one style of shoes and stick to them.
Pope Francis wears frugal, black oxfords, paired with black socks.
The same shoes he wore as a priest and a cardinal.
But before him, most popes opted for white socks and red shoes.
JP II wore a dark, burgundy pair.
And Pope Benedict famously sported slick red leather loafers
which prompted Esquire Magazine to name him “accessessorizer of the year” in 2007.
The red shoes are likely a reference to the blood of martyrs
and the passion of Jesus, who is often pictured in red post-resurrection.
But some claim they’re just a holdover from when
the rich and powerful wore a lot of red.
Because it was expensive and set them apart from common people.
Which it seems is where a lot of papal garment design originates.
If you look at the clothing of Byzantine royalty
you’ll see a lot of similarities to modern catholic leadership.
Right down to the red shoes.
Pope Francis’ choices reflect a desire to distance himself from that history.
He even wears some of the same mass vestments he did as bishop.
Including, this, his mitre.
Mitres, essentially foldable hats, have been around
in various iterations for at least a thousand years.
Today, they’re worn only during mass.
Not just by the pope, but by cardinals and bishops too.
No one can really agree on their origin
but they’re likely yet another holdover from royal dress.
There are a few mass vestments reserved only for the pope.
Including the pallium, this circular wool band.
And sometimes, this thing: a ferula.
Both references to Jesus as “the good shepherd”.
But the main event of the pope's mass attire is the chasuble.
Essentially a poncho.
This chasuble, white with a minimal gold trim
is the first one Pope Francis wore.
His choice for his inaugural mass.
Traditionally, the time for your showiest chasuble.
It’s also his chasuble of choice, worn most frequently throughout the year.
Even on Christmas, another time popes usually opt for more opulence.
But over the course of the year, chasuble colors vary according to the church calendar
a schedule all priests roughly follow.
Purple, during times of penance: like advent and lent.
Green, during times of growth: used throughout quote “ordinary time”.
White and gold, symbolizing joy and purity: for major celebrations like
Easter and Christmas.
Sprinkled in are some Red chasubles: whenever sacrifice is celebrated.
And a few pink ones.
Pope Francis usually follows this calendar.
But on July 8th, 2013 he wore this.
A simple, purple chasuble.
Even though it was squarely within Ordinary time.
Purple, the color of penance and mourning.
He wore it during a visit to a refugee camp on the Italian island of Lampedusa.
While standing atop an altar made of wooden remnants from refugee boats.
He delivered a now famous homily that criticized global indifference to the refugee crisis.
His clothes represent the church he’s working to build:
something simpler, more accessible, more modern.