I’m Konstantine Tumbinski and this is front wheel build for our cafe racer project
We build the wheel on Yamaha SR500 hub as it has mounts for two brake rotors
Bearings were installed and you can watch video at our channel
Alloy rim for sport tire and spokes were supplied by LSL
Outer spokes has 90 degree angle
Use wide screwdriver and good spoke wrench for nipples
Balance stand is used to true the wheel
First install inner spokes in one hole on the hub
Next rotate the hub to twist the spokes to fit the rim easily
First spoke is installed in closest to the valve hole of lower row - it’s on right
Next spoke is installed in 3 holes on the rim
Such scheme is untypical and would not fit for most motorcycle wheels
Next install inner spokes of another flange
The spoke should be installed in the hole of farther row on the rim to make 2 crosses with spokes of another flange
You should bend it to move to the hole on the rim
Here are first and second cross
Next spokes are installed in 1 hole one the flange and in 3 holes on the rim
To install last spoke you have to remove one spoke of another flange
Here is what you should get
Now outer spokes are installed
It’s impossible to make a mistake, as each spoke fits only one hole on the rim
The difficulty lies in the fact that the nipples are very tightly into the holes and the hub does not move
You have to knock nipples and push the hub to install each next spoke
Another side is much more difficult as the hub is stationary
Spokes must be bent, and somebody should keep the wheel
Here is the wheel after assembly
Now the wheel is set on the balance stand and the nipples are tightened evenly
The aim at this stage is to set nipples in place
Nipples should be tightened evenly with screwdriver
Some nipples are very tight so it makes sense to use grease
In fact, the process is long and painstaking
To set nipples in seat I have to screw them to the end of the thread
Next tense all spokes evenly
At this stage, we are more focused on the thread of the spokes than on the torque of the nipples,
because the torque can be provided by friction of nipples and rim, not the spokes tension
If lace the wheel evenly, without rushing, the radial run-out will not be
To true the axial run-out we find the closest part on the rim and in this place tighten spokes of the farther flange and loosen spokes of the near flange
When truing, it is desirable to determine the sector of the rim, not the center
The spokes in the center of the sector should be tightened and loosened more than the spokes on the sides of the sector
bla-bla-bla (not importent)
Be patient. Don't rush. It's a slow process.
Also you should control offset of the hub relative to the rim along the axis of the wheel
To do it you need dishing tool, but we don’t have
We will check the wheel in the forks
If the wheel is not in the center between forks - all spokes of near flange should be tightened and all spokes of father flange should be loosened to the direction of offset
The place of welding on the rim is marked
In this place the rim is 1mm more narrow
You should take into account this place of the rim when truing the wheel
Max axial and radial run-outs for this wheel is 1mm
It’s better to reach perfect result but you never feel it in practice
Such rim allows us to install sport tire 120/70 on our cafe racer
Watch tire installation at our channel
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