[Music]
Hey, what's up everybody?
It's your boi Hugh here from CreatorUp - the most reliable source for Professional 360VR
camera reviews and tutorials.
Today, we are starting a new tutorial series - how to create a breathtaking cinematic 360
VR timelapse with consumer and professional 360 VR cameras.
And this episode, we are going use one of my favorites professional 360VR cameras - the
Insta360 Pro 2.
We are going to break it down into two different workflows - the JPEG timelapse and the RAW
DNG timelapse workflow.
The RAW DNG timelapse requires Mistika VR to restitch, but it creates the best looking,
16-bit color depth timelapse video that dramatically increases your 360 production value - you
can see some of my examples here from my Kauai trip and Dubai trip.
Yes, some of those are captured with the Insta360 Titan.
But the Insta360 Titan workflow is identical to the Insta360 Pro 2 - you just have 2 more
lenses to stitch.
BTW
If you want discount and free battery combo of the Insta360 Pro 2 - click the link
in the description below.
JPEG vs RAW DNG 360 Timelapse Understanding the risks and rewards of choosing
the correct timelapse approach is very important as a 360 filmmaker.
Today we focus on run and gun JPEG 360 timelapse.
This requires precision during capture on location.
But it saves lots of time and money in Post Production compared to RAW DNG capture.
It allows you to do 2-second interval timelapse instead of 4-second interval - which will
save you lots of time to capture enough frames for a video timelapse.
This is very important when time is limited on location.
It does not allow lots of "fix it in post options" - like denoising, blow out sky or
losing too much details in shadow.
So if you mess up with your exposure on set, the timelapse is ruined.
You can not use Lightroom or Adobe Camera RAW to "fix" it.
Again, look at the on-screen pros and cons comparison to decide if JPEG 360 timelapse
is right for you on that particular location during pre-production.
While talking about pre-production, please don't just show up on a location.
Do some research using Google map 360 feature to find the right time and perfect spot to
setup your camera.
Camera Set-Up When you arrive on location, find a spot based
on your Google Map research.
The spot should be safe and avoid tourists and traffic.
Tourists are the worst enemy of any 360 timelapse b/c most of them never see a 360 camera.
And the Insta360 Pro 2 is a very cute camera.
It looks like a robot and draws too much attention.
Besides a safe location, the next very important thing of any 360 timelapse is stabilization.
You want your tripod or monpod to be extremely stable and not affected by winds.
A slight movement will destroy your timelapse, especially in VR headset.
There is no wrap stabilizer in 360 timelapse and Mocha Pro is very expensive software.
So don't rely on "fix it in post mindset."
Invest in a really good monopod with weight and sandbag in the base with professional
grade build.
I will highly recommend watching this video to get the exact monopod setup as I do.
If you have the monopod as I suggested, you can also get the camera higher than the crowd.
It creates a vertical stitch distance.
So even the tourists are walking too close to the camera, we still have the vertical
distance to stitch them out in post.
Monoscopic vs Stereoscopic If you are using Insta360 Pro 2 or Titan,
you should always shoot in Stereo 3D and decide in post which one you are going to use.
Stereo 3D look amazing when you have cloud hitting the camera slowly like this one, when
I capture on top of the Kalalau mountain, this highest point of Kauai.
So I highly recommend experiment stereoscopic 3D in timelapse - and hike up in your neighborhood
mountain to capture some cloud movement in 3D.
And don't worry about the post-production.
Because I will show you how to deal with 3D in post.
Camera setting Nail the correct camera setting is the most
important part of creating a good JPEG 360 timelapse.
As you can not fix it in post.
So the first rule of thumb - do NOT use auto-exposure.
It will create flicker, which is very hard to remove it in POST unless you use LRtimelapse
in RAW DNG following this tutorial.
Also, do not use auto-white balance as well.
As you see the changing color of this timelapse, it is because of auto white balance.
So the first thing to decide is the white balance.
Locked it 5000 Kevin if it is bright daylight or 4000 Kevin if it is sunset.
Then, set you ISO in 100.
Yes, never go above ISO 100 on Insta360 Pro 2 if you want to avoid noise and make the
timelapse look cinematic.
Not like video, you can always do long exposure timelapse in low light.
As a matter of fact, I am going to show you the setting in an extremely low light capture
as you see right here.
If you can nail long exposure night lapse, bright daylight will be a piece of cake for
you.
So the only thing you need to worry is shutter speed.
I love long exposure timelapse.
Look at that nice light trails following all the moving cars at night, it looks so cinematic.
I will teach you how to get the same effect even in bri ght daylight with high shutter
speed later without ND filters.
But to get the nice motion blur, it is to get your shutter speed slower than 1/5 second.
This one is 1/2.5 second.
But how do you know which shutter speed you should use on that location?
Well, here is another tip for you - you test it on location.
I will take a still 360 photo with the setting I guess - which starts from 1/5 second.
Then I look at the photo on my iPhone or iPad - scroll tho each lens.
If it is under exposed, I lower the shutter speed to 1/2.5 or 1 second.
If it is overexposed, I will increase the shutter speed to 1/10 second.
Take another photo and repeat the same process until you find the correct exposure.
I do that in both JPEG and DNG timelapses.
What if sunrise and sunset timelapse when lighting is changing by the minutes?
Well, if you are doing lots of sunset and sunrise timelapse like I do, I will recommend
doing DNG timelapse using Adobe Camera RAW, which will be the next tutorial.
Don't forget to subscribe and like this video.
Stitching 360 timelapse.
Now we offload all the JPEG following this tutorial from your Insta360 Pro 2 or Titan.
We are going to stitch it using Insta360Stitcher - which comes free with your camera.
Content Type, you choose Monoscopic or Stereoscopic based on your project.
I always choose Optical Flow - as I found the best result compared to the New Optical
Flow - which always has some strange artifacts.
The rest you can leave it as default.
Make sure you check Gyroscopic Stabilization if you are using Insta360 Pro 2.
But if you are using Insta360 Pro 1 - please do not check this.
This feature only works for Pro 2 and Titan - and it does help in a windy day.
In Pro 1, it will shake your timelapse and backfire the result.
So uncheck it.
Another tip, please write it down.
And then hit Preview Stitching Effect to open calibration windows.
In here, you are going to level your 360 timelapse if you fail to do so during capture.
I found that even you level your camera, it is still not perfect.
So you need to do so in this stage.
Lucky, Insta360 makes it super easy.
First, go ahead and hit the zenith optimization if you are indoor.
But outdoor, don't use it.
Hit the grid icon right here and turn on the grid.
Find vertical lines in the frame like this light pole and align it with the grid.
I will change my center of focus here as well to the famous momentum in Sao Paulo, Brazil.
Yes, I capture this in Brazil - the new 360 sight and sound of Sao Paulo is coming out
very soon.
Now go ahead and hit save and apply.
The resolution I use 8K b/c I only do 8K 360 videos but change it according to your project
size.
Pick the output directory and then hit stitch now.
Go get a cup of coffee or go on Instagram and follow my Instagram for the latest 360
inspiration or free giveaways.
Okay, now we are done.
Let's import in brand new Adobe Premiere 2020 to check it out.
You can also use Final Cut Pro X or Davinci Resolve.
Deflicker, denoise, and add motion blur Now we are in Adobe Premiere 2020.
Double click your project windows, open up the folder of your timelapse render, pick
the no.1 of the image sequence, make sure you check image sequence here to import all
the images as a single video file.
Drag and drop that video file into create new sequence icon to create an 8K sequence.
Now play the timelapse.
If your timelapse can not play smoothly, right-click on the timelapse and create a 360 proxy.
Usually, timelapse does not have 360 meta.
So you need to go into sequence settings - Projection: Equirectangular - layout: Monoscopic or Stereoscopic
- hit okay.
Now, if you click toggle VR display button, you should see the VR view of this timelapse.
It is 8K timelapse so my computer is struggling to playback smoothly.
But we clearly see moving noise and most importantly - flickers.
The noise only happens in low light as this long exposure timelapse.
But flickers are very common in 360 timelapse even in bright daylight with moving clouds.
This is extremely bad for VR headset viewing and makes your viewers sick.
Don't blame Insta360 for it; this happens in any camera including your 2D camera.
Deflicker is what set you apart for all the others and make your timelapse look professional.
Well, why you follow CreatorUp but not any others, because your boy Hugh has massive
experience than no other has.
And I work hard to make your footage look amazing.
Hit the like button of this video and help me to help you better.
So there are many ways to denoise and deflicker.
For video, you know already, I use NeatVideo.
For timelapse tho, I use LRtimelape or TLDF.
TLDF is a lot easier and faster than LRtimelapse.
If you want LRTimelpase, please refer to this video.
TLDF is available both in Mac and PC.
The good thing is, you don't need Lightroom or any Adobe product to use it.
So if you do not own Adobe, this will be a great alternative.
Drag and drop all the photos into TLDF.
Simply check deflicker, and denoise options.
Adjust the denoise amount and hit preview to see the result.
After you are happy with your result, go ahead and hit render, uncheck output video as this
is an 8K video.
We use jpeg instead.
Choose an output folder and make sure the quality is 100%.
Pick JPEG is fine here and hit Render.
When you imported the new image sequence back into Premiere and compared it with the one
from Insta360Stitcher - you see the flicker is dramatically reduced.
If you hide and show the two timelapse, you see what TLDR did to the light.
If you are doing daytime timelapse and still want the motion blur of people walking like
the one you saw in my Toyko 360 sights and sounds - which now has almost 200K views - thank
you so much for all the loves.
To thank you, here is my secret of creating cinematic motion blur in high shutter speed
360 timelapse.
In TLDR, check blend, blend mode average, number of frames 3 - 5, and opacity 100.
It will blend out all the hard flickers and moving objects to make your timelapse look
smooth and beautiful.
Thank you for watching another long and in-depth 360 tutorial.
Please congratz yourself.
Because now you are smarter in 360 productions than others who did not watch this video all
the way to the end.
And this technique you can apply today to get that result you are looking for.
In the next tutorial, we are going to talk about a more advanced technique using RAW
DNG timelapse with both the Insta360 Titan 16-bit capture and the Insta360 Pro 2.
I am also giving out 3 copies of TLDR software to help you create cinematic 360 timelapse.
The way to enter this raffle is to like, share and comment on this video and the next video
on this timelapse series.
At the end of this series, I will randomly pick 3 winners.
More information to enter is down in the description below.