i just drove this thing so it's hot hopefully i don't burn myself oh
hey guys it's been a good minute since i did any car content so today i'm going to finally
troubleshoot what's wrong with my alternator on my is300 i haven't driven that thing in like
three months because the alternator went out and i hadn't had time to mess with it so today i'm gonna
go ahead and mess with it and see what's going on with it so i was actually prepared to replace the
alternator with a sequoia 150 amp alternator that is a common retrofit for this car and the
2jz motor it's almost bolt-on except you got to do some modifications to the wiring harness and then
you got to trim one of the ears to make it fit and while i was looking at the part to try to
figure out what i needed i discovered something interesting that i might be troubleshooting today
so initially i was looking at the plug on here to see what i needed to do that retrofit to the
sequoia or the tundra alternator and i started looking at the harness and then i noticed that
the main lug had a cap that was melted right here i took the cap off to see what was going on and
it was melted and i noticed that the main lug is loose as far as the wire goes onto the crimp
today i'm going to be troubleshooting that to see if that's the issue with
why my alternator is not feeding my battery it did feel a little bit loose when i touched it earlier
but i'm gonna go ahead and charge this thing so i could start it up and pull it into the garage
so we can troubleshoot inside the garage so we'll go ahead and connect this baby up right now and
let it charge for a couple hours so i can actually start this baby up and run it inside the house
go ahead and tuck this right here 12 volt 6 amps don't close it because it's blocked right now
so we'll just latch it once and let it charge so while we're waiting for the car to charge outside
and you guys have watched this far into the video i've got these two volk racing
license plate frames i got from voteframes.com i haven't done a car video in so long decided
to do a giveaway for all you guys have been following me since day one leave a comment
on this video and tell me what your favorite volk wheel is and i'll choose in a couple weeks
two winners to get these i want to thank you guys for continuing to watch my videos and
being patient with me for the last couple months on getting car content out so i've let the car
charge for about six hours or so now hopefully that's enough to start this baby up let's see nope
this thing is not starting so i decided since i'm already out here and it's not that hot i'm gonna
go ahead and just try to wrench out here in the driveway see if i can at least unbolt that thing
check what's going on with that wire and then see if i can fix it at least get it to try to charge
and jump started while i'm out here to see if there's actually something wrong with the
alternator or it's just a loose connection but you can kind of see right there that the joint right
there where the crimp is kind of broke and it's just been arcing that's probably what caused that
cover to melt bolt looks pretty corroded too so that's not helping either so anyway i'm gonna go
ahead and get my tools and try to wrench right now so since we'll be messing with this power
first thing i want to do is disconnect the positive on here because the positive is
connected to the alternator through the fuse box here so we want to make sure we isolate this so
we don't arc anything go ahead and disconnect the negative side too just for well meter down here
if i unloosen this bolt on the stud kind of tight move some of these connectors out of
the way i was really set on doing that tundra and the sequoia alternator swap that alternator's 240
brand new denso remanufactured then you just got to buy like a 10 harness and re-pin the
plug they do make an adapter plug but it's like 60 shipped tonight it wasn't gonna spin that
much but if this ends up being bad we'll go ahead and do that swap later so i just took apart the
wire harnesses and the stuff around here just to kind of clear some way earlier when i did
take apart this connector the clip right here is brittle so it kind of broke on me so it's loose
now but not a big problem it shouldn't vibrate loose so now i've got a little bit more room
so you can see right now there's much more room to work with down here i might spray that with some
wd-40 just to get it kind of lubricated before i put a wrench on it so i don't break anything
you see all that turning and we're still down there with that nut stuck in there there is a
little lock area behind here so we'll see if we get a wrench or something to hold it
while we turn it obviously the the head is not coming out of the stud so what i just tried was
tightening it back down kind of break it loose from the rusted threads and see if i could turn
it the other way now hopefully we can get it out so that trick worked i got it loosened now
we're almost off so we'll go ahead and take it off and take that eyelet out and try to fix it and
that comes off right there the washer's out and the eyelet right here with the bad crimp i'm about
to pull this wire up that wire is down there with a bunch of clips so we'll have to kind of undo
that and pull it up here so we can work on it we undid everything and we got the wire loose and you
can see this thing's freaking corroded as hell as far as the copper goes it looks like some of this
braiding came loose and it is still intact but it just looks brittle as hell even on here what
happened was that it just sheared off right there where the little crimp is and the only thing that
holding it on was this back crimp inside there so what i'm going to do now i'm actually going to
try to clean this it's best to probably just replace this whole cable all the way back to the
fuse box back here so that's not really that much of a wire to replace and if you do replace it you
might just want to go shortest link possible without going through this whole harness we'll
go ahead and do a temporary fix right now and try to straighten this thing out and crimp it
again and just see if it works i'm going to go ahead and try to hammer this out with a
flat head to see if i can get that crimp out and then try to reuse it obviously be best to replace
this but it's the middle of the night and i can't get to the hardware store if you buy one of these
that was pretty easy hammered it through broke off all the little bits of copper that was in there so
opened it up a little bit so now we can crimp it back and hopefully it'll be a temporary fix until
i get a better wire so we'll go ahead and try to get this back on what i'm going to do is cut or
get this piece right here that's kind of corroded into that spot and then crimp it with some pliers
we get them pretty good just in case i put a new piece of heat shrink in here also just so we can
heat shrink this area so it doesn't expose any of this copper
all right so i heat shrink that thing back on so it's nice and tight now
we'll go ahead and reconnect this and then jump the car hopefully it starts
ended up getting a new washer and nut just so i don't have to put that rusted one back up
and have it seized again nice and tight now i did break that cap that melted earlier so i ordered a
new one it was like six bucks at the dealer here i'm gonna pick up that tomorrow and cover that
up so that way nothing metal falls on there and shorts out on that if the car is on it's a little
safety thing we'll go ahead and jump the car now with my other is and see if this baby starts up
all right go ahead connect this baby up see if it starts first time in two months or so
all right moment of truth let's see
good sinus i don't see an alternator light on the dash anywhere and i'm getting uh 13.4 but
that might be coming off the other car i'm gonna go unplug the jumper cables and see if anything
changes it's been running for a couple minutes still no alternator light and i'm getting 13.7
volts according to this meter so i am perfectly in normal operating conditions for this car that
alternator has always been around 13 and a half to 14 has never been more than 14 from this gauge so
i should be good with this i'm glad i have this back on the road and i didn't have to spend
250 on a new alternator good thing i checked all this before i ordered the parts hey guys thanks
for joining me all the way to the end of this video on trying to troubleshoot that alternator
on my is 300 and actually fixing it without really buying any new parts or anything it's a temporary
fix when i get around to actually working on the motor and getting into that area again
i'll redo that wire so it's more robust right now i think i have a pretty good crimp on there
and i put the new bolt on so it should be fine and i'm going to get that new cap tomorrow once i
go to the toyota dealer to pick it up don't forget earlier i mentioned about the volt racing tag just
leave a comment down below in a couple weeks i'll choose a winner of these two tags so remember guys
with fixing your car and doing things on your car or if i can do it you can do it too if you
haven't subscribed to your channel go ahead and subscribe to your channel to stay on top of all my
different car projects in my house project and any other projects i'm working on in the garage
anyways thanks for tuning all the way to the end and i'll talk to you guys next time
so i have the special order this cap from toyota it was actually the cheaper version
not the one for the supra or 2jz happens to be gray versus black but it's actually four
dollars cheaper than the one for the super which i assume is black it is the exact same cap we'll
go ahead and put it in the car online this thing is only like three dollars when you walk into a
dealer they charge you six dollars for it but i think list price is like five in some chain
we've got the old part melted and all that and the new part which is gray like i said
go ahead and put it in the car now damn it i just drove this thing so it's hot
hopefully i don't burn myself oh [ __ ] hot all right i'll do this later