Eric Cogorno here with Performance Golf Zone.
In today's video, we're going to talk about how to hit the draw in golf.
I want to go over a couple key points here as to how to get you guys curving the golf
ball from right to left, hitting those draws within a couple of swings.
This isn't something that should take a long time to be able to do.
I want to explain the information, show you a couple ways to do it, get you drawing that
golf ball very quickly.
Let's briefly talk about what creates the draw.
In the swing, the first key checkpoint that I need to go over to understand how I'm going
to curve the ball from right to left is, we need to understand that the club face needs
to be closed to the path.
I can't hit a ball that draws if my club face is square to, nor if it's open to the path.
I need the club face to be closed to the path.
Let's go over a couple points that are going to help us do that.
The first part that dictates whether the club face is open or closed, and for us to get
this draw going, is going to be the grip.
What we need to avoid is any overly weak grip pattern, any hands turned counterclockwise
on the club too much, any heel pad on the side of the club, a very palmy left-hand grip,
right hand too far on top.
All of those pieces, like Vs to my left, all of the things that we've talked about in our
grip videos, that's going to inhibit our ability to get the club face closed.
We need to avoid that.
What we do need is a neutral to slightly strong grip.
So, I'm going to make sure my hands are maybe rotated a little bit more clockwise on the
club.
From face-on, I might want to see a little bit more of my logo on my grip, make sure
my Vs are over to the right a little bit, just make sure we're neutral to slightly strong.
That will help our ability to get the club face going.
We need to avoid the weak-grip pattern.
If we have the grip pattern under control, then we need to watch the club face in space
as well.
So, we need to avoid, during our swing, anything that's going to make the club face get overly
open during our backswing, overly open at the top.
Some things we want to watch out for here is going to be, too much forearm rotation
too early would open the club face, and too much cup or extension into our left wrist.
Those are the two most common problems that open the club face and inhibit you golfers
from hooking the ball or creating a curve.
So, what we want to do when we go back, we have our grip on neutral, we want to make
sure that that club face is going to stay square or slightly closed throughout.
I just want to monitor that forearm rotation.
I want to monitor where my left wrist is in space.
Any kind of cupping action, any excessive forearm rotation is going to make this really
difficult.
We want to make sure that that left wrist stays pretty neutral, that face stays pretty
neutral.
You don't need to have a perfect backswing to hit a draw.
We need to avoid common errors, though, that create the slice.
We can't have our club face too open.
Let's make sure that stays square going back.
Now, if we have those pieces under control and we have the face under control, in the
setup, ball position also plays a role.
The more forward I move the ball in my stance, the more difficult it is to hit a draw.
Can I hit a draw from a neutral ball position?
Absolutely.
As I creep more and more forward, it gets more and more difficult.
What I'd like to do is have a slightly back ball position, have the ball positioned a
little bit back of middle, maybe between my normal ball position and my right foot.
That will help me with my path piece, as we're going to talk about in a minute.
Club face square at address.
Let's keep the ball back in our stance just a little bit.
Now, if we can have that and we work on that until we get that right, we could hit a couple
of shots here in the beginning, get the ball curving to the left with just those pieces.
So, if I took my normal setup, and I'm going to hit a little practice shot, and I want
to start to get the ball curving to the left, I ensure that my grip pattern is neutral to
strong, I make sure that I'm kind of closed there, slightly tilted down, and slightly
tilted down on the follow-through.
I'm going to go ahead a hit a ball that curves a little bit to the left, start to get the
ball drawing.
So, there's a little bit of a draw out there, but what we really want to do is make that
draw functional on the golf course, and that requires a little bit of a path adjustment.
What we need to understand is, during the downswing, the more that I get the club working
from inside of this ball target line...
I have these sticks in the ground indicating my ball target line.
The more the club head works from inside of that ball target line to the golf ball, it
increases the odds of my ability to hit a draw.
The more, during my downswing, I get the club neutral, even over the top or outside of that
line, working across to the left, decreases the odds of a draw, especially one that's
going to finish at the target.
So, part number two I want to give you is a path fix, something for feedback to know
that I can get that club swinging inside-out.
We marry that with the club face portion, then we have really, really good draws, pretty
quickly as well.
So, I have two alignments rods here, and I'm going to show us how we're going to set this
up.
Now, when I take my normal setup position, I use it to kind of pose a little takeaway.
I want to get these alignment rods roughly halfway, maybe three-quarters of the way down
the shaft here, and I'm going to show you where I place these.
So, from behind here, I'm going to put the stick just on the outside portion of my stick,
again, roughly halfway down my club, and I'm going to go ahead and tilt this down onto
the same angle that I have my club here.
So, if I have an 8-iron, I take my setup, I put it outside here at roughly the same
angle.
It doesn't need to be perfect, maybe slightly more vertical.
I go back to my address position, I do the same thing in front, kind of see where half
to three-quarters of the way down is.
Now, this one I'm going to put on the inside part of the stick, and again, I'm going to
kind of match my club.
So, if I put this club on its normal lie angle, I want it to be roughly the same angle there.
Now, the point here is for a feedback station.
You have to get the club face first, but once we get that, we need the path part to get
the ball to finish at the target.
A ball that draws to the left must start to the right, and we need the path portion with
that.
This is an awesome feedback station to hit a draw, to give you feels.
A) You're going to know immediately whether you do have your path inside-out, or B) you're
going to have feels to fix that.
So, if I take my normal address position here and I just do some rehearsals, I don't even
need a ball in the beginning, I'm just going to feel this club head start to work inside
of the stick, get to the tee, and really work to the right.
And both of these things, if you slice a ball especially, this is going to have to be exaggerated.
When I say get the club head inside and underneath this, I'm talking, get it inside.
Get that club head as far behind you as you can get it from here.
Work that club head into the ball and get that club head exiting as far right as you
can.
Those two pieces, fixing the club face first, getting it closed, is essential for the draw.
Part number two, we have to get the path part.
Put these two stations and you should be able to start curving the ball, hitting draws here
in minutes.
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