Iona is a small island in the Inner Hebrides off the Ross of Mull on the
western coast of Scotland. It was a centre of Gaelic monasticism for four
centuries and is today renowned for its tranquility and natural beauty. It is a
popular tourist destination and a place for retreats. Its modern Gaelic name
means "Iona of Columba". Etymology
The Hebrides have been occupied by the speakers of several languages since the
Iron Age, and as a result many of the names of these islands have more than
one possible meaning. Nonetheless few, if any, can have accumulated so many
different names over the centuries as the island now known in English as
"Iona". The earliest forms of the name enabled
place-name scholar William J. Watson to show that the name originally meant
something like "yew-place". The element Ivo-, denoting "yew", occurs in Ogham
inscriptions and in Gaulish names and may form the basis of early Gaelic names
like Eogan. It is possible that the name is related to the mythological figure,
Fer hÍ mac Eogabail, foster-son of Manannan, the forename meaning "man of
the yew". Mac an Tàilleir lists the more recent
Gaelic names of Ì, Ì Chaluim Chille and Eilean Idhe noting that the first named
is "generally lengthened to avoid confusion" to the second, which means
"Calum's Iona" or "island of Calum's monastery". The possible confusion
results from "ì", despite its original etymology, becoming a Gaelic noun
meaning simply "island". Eilean Idhe means "the isle of Iona", also known as
Ì nam ban bòidheach. The modern English name comes from an 18th-century
misreading of yet another variant, Ioua, which was either just Adomnán's attempt
to make the Gaelic name fit Latin grammar or else a genuine derivative
from Ivova. Ioua's change to Iona results from a transcription mistake
resulting from the similarity of "n" and "u" in Insular Minuscule.
Despite the continuity of forms in Gaelic between the pre-Norse and
post-Norse eras, Haswell-Smith speculates that the name may have a
Norse connection, Hiōe meaning "island of the den of the brown bear", "island
of the den of the fox", or just "island of the cave". The medieval English
language version was "Icolmkill". = Folk etymology=
Murray claims that the "ancient" Gaelic name was Innis nan Druinich and repeats
a Gaelic story that as Columba's coracle first drew close to the island one of
his companions cried out "Chì mi i" meaning "I see her" and that Columba's
response was "Henceforth we shall call her Ì".
Geography Iona lies about 2 kilometres from the
coast of Mull. It is about 2 kilometres wide and 6 kilometres long with a
resident population of 125. The geology of the island consists mainly of
Precambrian Lewisian gneiss with Torridonian sedimentary rocks on the
eastern side and small outcrops of pink granite on the eastern beaches. Like
other places swept by ocean breezes, there are few trees; most of them are
near the parish church. Iona's highest point is Dùn Ì, 101
metres, an Iron Age hill fort dating from 100 BC – AD 200. Iona's
geographical features include the Bay at the Back of the Ocean and Càrn Cùl ri
Éirinn, said to be adjacent to the beach where St. Columba first landed.
The main settlement, located at St. Ronan's Bay on the eastern side of the
island, is called Baile Mòr and is also known locally as "The Village". The
primary school, post office, the island's two hotels, the Bishop's House
and the ruins of the Nunnery are here. The Abbey and MacLeod Centre are a short
walk to the north. Port Bàn beach on the west side of the island is home to the
Iona Beach Party. There are numerous offshore islets and
skerries: Eilean Annraidh and Eilean Chalbha to the north, Rèidh Eilean and
Stac MhicMhurchaidh to the west and Eilean Mùsimul and Soa Island to the
south are amongst the largest. The steamer Cathcart Park carrying a cargo
of salt from Runcorn to Wick ran aground on Soa on 15 April 1912, the crew of 11
escaping in two boats. History
= Dál Riata= In the early Historic Period Iona lay
within the Gaelic kingdom of Dál Riata. The island was the site of a highly
important monastery during the Early Middle Ages. According to tradition the
monastery was founded in 563 by the monk Columba, also known as Colm Cille, who
had been exiled from his native Ireland as a result of his involvement in the
Battle of Cul Dreimhne. Columba and twelve companions went into exile on
Iona and founded a monastery there. The monastery was hugely successful, and
played a crucial role in the conversion to Christianity of the Picts of
present-day Scotland in the late 6th century and of the Anglo-Saxon kingdom
of Northumbria in 635. Many satellite institutions were founded, and Iona
became the centre of one of the most important monastic systems in Great
Britain and Ireland. Iona became a renowned centre of
learning, and its scriptorium produced highly important documents, probably
including the original texts of the Iona Chronicle, thought to be the source for
the early Irish annals. The monastery is often associated with the distinctive
practices and traditions known as Celtic Christianity. In particular, Iona was a
major supporter of the "Celtic" system for calculating the date of Easter at
the time of the Easter controversy, which pitted supporters of the Celtic
system against those favoring the "Roman" system used elsewhere in Western
Christianity. The controversy weakened Iona's ties to Northumbria, which
adopted the Roman system at the Synod of Whitby in 664, and to Pictland, which
followed suit in the early 8th century. Iona itself did not adopt the Roman
system until 715, according to the Anglo-Saxon historian Bede. Iona's
prominence was further diminished over the next centuries as a result of Viking
raids and the rise of other powerful monasteries in the system, such as the
Abbey of Kells. The Book of Kells may have been produced
or begun on Iona towards the end of the 8th century. Around this time the
island's exemplary high crosses were sculpted; these may be the first such
crosses to contain the ring around the intersection that became characteristic
of the "Celtic cross". The series of Viking raids on Iona began in 794 and,
after its treasures had been plundered many times, Columba's relics were
removed and divided two ways between Scotland and Ireland in 849 as the
monastery was abandoned. = Kingdom of the Isles=
As the Norse domination of the west coast of Scotland advanced, Iona became
part of the Kingdom of the Isles. The Norse Rex plurimarum insularum Amlaíb
Cuarán died in 980 or 981 whilst in "religious retirement" on Iona.
Nonetheless the island was sacked twice by his successors, on Christmas night
986 and again in 987. Although Iona was never again important to Ireland, it
rose to prominence once more in Scotland following the establishment of the
Kingdom of Alba in the later 9th century. The ruling dynasty of Alba
traced its origin to Iona, and the island thus became an important
spiritual centre of the new kingdom, with many of its early kings buried
there. A convent for Benedictine nuns was
established in about 1208, with Bethóc, daughter of Somerled, as first prioress.
The present Benedictine abbey, Iona Abbey, was built in about 1203. The
monastery itself flourished until the Reformation when buildings were
demolished and all but three of the 360 carved crosses destroyed.
= Kingdom of Scotland= Following the 1266 Treaty of Perth the
Hebrides were restored to Scottish rule. An Augustine nunnery survives as a
number of 13th century ruins, including a church and cloister. The nunnery
continued to be active until the Reformation. By the 1760s little more of
the nunnery remained standing than at present, though it is the most complete
remnant of a medieval nunnery in Scotland.
= Post-Union= After a visit in 1773, the English
writer Samuel Johnson described the island as "fruitful", but backward and
impoverished: The inhabitants are remarkably gross,
and remarkably neglected: I know not if they are visited by any minister. The
island, which was once the metropolis of learning and piety, now has no school
for education, nor temple for worship, only two inhabitants that can speak
English, and not one that can write or read.
He estimated the population of the village at 70 families or perhaps 350
inhabitants. In the 19th century green-streaked
marble was commercially mined in the south-east of Iona; the quarry and
machinery survive. Iona Abbey
Iona Abbey, now an ecumenical church, is of particular historical and religious
interest to pilgrims and visitors alike. It is the most elaborate and
best-preserved ecclesiastical building surviving from the Middle Ages in the
Western Isles of Scotland. Though modest in scale in comparison to medieval
abbeys elsewhere in Western Europe, it has a wealth of fine architectural
detail, and monuments of many periods. The 8th Duke of Argyll presented the
sacred buildings and sites of the island to the Iona Cathedral trust in 1899.
In front of the Abbey stands the 9th century St Martin's Cross, one of the
best-preserved Celtic crosses in the British Isles, and a replica of the 8th
century St John's Cross. The ancient burial ground, called the
Rèilig Odhrain, contains the 12th century chapel of St Odhrán, restored at
the same time as the Abbey itself. It contains a number of medieval grave
monuments. The abbey graveyard contains the graves of many early Scottish Kings,
as well as kings from Ireland, Norway and France. Iona became the burial site
for the kings of Dál Riata and their successors. Notable burials there
include: Cináed mac Ailpín, king of the Picts
Domnall mac Causantín, alternatively "king of the Picts" or "king of Alba"
Máel Coluim mac Domnaill, king of Scotland
Donnchad mac Crínáin, king of Scotland Mac Bethad mac Findlaích, king of
Scotland Domnall mac Donnchada, king of Scotland
John Smith, Labour Party Leader In 1549 an inventory of 48 Scottish, 8
Norwegian and 4 Irish kings was recorded. None of these graves are now
identifiable. Saint Baithin and Saint Failbhe may also be buried on the
island. The Abbey graveyard is also the final resting place of John Smith, the
former Labour Party leader, who loved Iona. His grave is marked with an
epitaph quoting Alexander Pope: "An honest man's the noblest work of God".
Other early Christian and medieval monuments have been removed for
preservation to the cloister arcade of the Abbey, and the Abbey museum. The
ancient buildings of Iona Abbey are now cared for by Historic Scotland.
Present day The island, other than the land owned by
the Iona Cathedral Trust, was purchased from the Duke of Argyll by Hugh Fraser
in 1979 and donated to the National Trust for Scotland. In 2001 Iona's
population was 125 and by the time of the 2011 census this had grown to 177
usual residents. During the same period Scottish island populations as a whole
grew by 4% to 103,702. = Iona Community=
In 1938 George MacLeod founded the Iona Community, an ecumenical Christian
community of men and women from different walks of life and different
traditions in the Christian church committed to seeking new ways of living
the Gospel of Jesus in today's world. This community is a leading force in the
present Celtic Christian revival. The Iona Community runs 3 residential
centres on the Isle of Iona and on Mull, where one can live together in community
with people of every background from all over the world. Weeks at the centres
often follow a programme related to the concerns of the Iona Community.
The 8 tonne Fallen Christ sculpture by Ronald Rae was permanently situated
outside the MacLeod Centre in February 2008.
= Transport= Visitors can reach Iona by the 10-minute
ferry trip across the Sound of Iona from Fionnphort on Mull. The most common
route is via Oban in Argyll and Bute. Regular ferries connect to Craignure on
Mull, from where the scenic road runs 37 miles to Fionnphort. Tourist coaches and
local bus services meet the ferries. There are very few cars on the island,
as they are tightly regulated and vehicular access is not allowed for
non-residents, who have to leave their car in Fionnphort. Bike hire is
available at the pier, and on Mull. = Accommodation=
In addition to the hotels, there are several bed and breakfasts on Iona and
various self-catering properties. The Iona Hostel at Lagandorain and the Iona
campsite at Cnoc Oran also offer accommodation.
Media and the arts Samuel Johnson wrote "That man is little
to be envied whose patriotism would not gain force upon the plains of Marathon,
or whose piety would not grow warmer amid the ruins of Iona."
"Peace of Iona" is a song written by Mike Scott that appears on the studio
album Universal Hall and on the live recording Karma to Burn by The
Waterboys. Iona is the setting for the song "Oran" on the 1997 Steve McDonald
album Stone of Destiny. Kenneth C. Steven published an anthology
of poetry entitled Iona: Poems in 2000 inspired by his association with the
island and the surrounding area. Iona is featured prominently in the
first episode of the celebrated arts series Civilisation: A Personal View by
Kenneth Clark. Iona is the setting of Jeanne M. Dams'
Dorothy Martin mystery Holy Terror of the Hebrides.
The Academy Award–nominated Irish animated film The Secret of Kells is
about the creation of the Book of Kells. One of the characters, Brother Aiden, is
a master illuminator from Iona Abbey who had helped to illustrate the Book, but
had to escape the island with it during a Viking invasion.
After his death in 2011, the cremated remains of songwriter/recording artist
Gerry Rafferty were scattered on Iona. Gallery
See also Bishop's House Iona
Clann-an-oistir Dál Riata
Notes References
Dwelly, Edward. Faclair Gàidhlig gu Beurla le Dealbhan/The Illustrated
[Scottish] Gaelic- English Dictionary. Edinburgh. Birlinn. ISBN 1-874744-04-1.
Fraser, James E.. From Caledonia to Pictland: Scotland to 795. The New
Edinburgh History of Scotland 1. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press.
ISBN 978-0-7486-1232-1. Gregory, Donald The History of the
Western Highlands and Isles of Scotland 1493–1625. Edinburgh. Birlinn. 2008
reprint – originally published by Thomas D. Morrison. ISBN 1-904607-57-8.
Haswell-Smith, Hamish. The Scottish Islands. Edinburgh: Canongate. ISBN
978-1-84195-454-7. Hunter, James. Last of the Free: A
History of the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. Edinburgh. Mainstream. ISBN
1-84018-376-4 Johnson, Samuel. A Journey to the
Western Islands of Scotland. London: Chapman & Dodd..
Koch, John T.. Celtic Culture: A Historical Encyclopedia. ABC-CLIO.
Mac an Tàilleir, Iain. "Placenames". Edinburgh: Scottish Parliament. p. 67.
Retrieved 20 June 2012. Marsden, John. The Illustrated Life of
Columba. Edinburgh. Floris Books. ISBN 0-86315-211-2.
Murray, W. H.. The Hebrides. London. Heinemann.
Ó Corráin, Donnchadh Vikings in Ireland and Scotland in the Ninth Century CELT.
Watson, W. J., The History of the Celtic Place-names of Scotland. Reprinted with
an introduction by Simon Taylor, Birlinn, Edinburgh, 2004. ISBN
1-84158-323-5. Woolf, Alex, From Pictland to Alba,
789–1070, The New Edinburgh History of Scotland, Edinburgh: Edinburgh
University Press, ISBN 978-0-7486-1234-5 ·
Further reading Campbell, George F.. The First and Lost
Iona. Glasgow: Candlemas Hill Publishing. ISBN 1-873586-13-2.
External links Isle of Iona, Scotland
The Iona Community Computer-generated virtual panorama
Summit of Iona Index Map sources for Iona
Photo Gallery of Iona by Enrico Martino National Trust for Scotland property
page ^ http:www.isle-of-iona.net