Hi I'm Ed from RIDGID, today we're going to talk about the 535. A threading machine capacity on
the 535 is from 1/8 to 2 inch pipe. You can also do two and a half to four inch pipe, by way of the 141
geared threader and we've already done some videos on that, so I'll ask you to refer back to those. As
far as solid stock or bolt stock, you can do from 5/16 to 2-inch solid stock. The chucking mechanism
and this is quite unique and it's exclusive to this machine, it's an auto chucking mechanism. The
jaws on them are reversible and they're forged and replaceable as well. The centering device and back
is actually tied into the jaws, so when you actuate everything. It centers a pipe as well as gripping
the pipe, from both ends of it. As an 820 cutter. It's a full floating cutter, okay from 1/8 to
2-inch. You have a reamer here that's 5 fluted and it does right hand right now, you can also purchase
one to do left-hand threads if necessary and we'll talk about that later on. As a self priming G rotor
pump. The die heads that are available for this machine are the 8 11 a, the 8 15 a, the 8 16 a and
8 17 a die heads. The motor that's used in here is quite different from a conventional threading
machine. Usually we use universal motors and/or high rpm and geared down. These are induction
style motors, their constant speed constant torque and it delivers the same amount of RPM regardless
of what you do to a strange. The standard equipment that comes with it, there's various ways to buy it
but typical standard equipment. It comes with an 811 a and once again you can order it with the 8
16 and 8 17 die heads respectively, it comes with a set of 1/2 3/4 dice Universal. It comes with a
set of one to two inch dies universal it comes with one gallon of extreme performance oil and
incidentally, this is the only machine that we offer with the extreme performance oil. It comes
with a spare cutter wheel and the model number for that is e 10 32. Also it features a three-speed
transmission that's application-specific, so you have 16, 46 and 50 I'm sorry 58 RPM respectively
and once again that's application specific. So general rule of thumb is the larger diameter
pipe that you want to do, the more you have to slow the Machine down a little bit within reason.
It's still efficient to where you can get your job done a lot quicker than with a conventional
threader but again, being that the torque goes up as you increase in size, you're gonna have to
slow the Machine down a little bit, to be capable of handling that there's three stands available
for this machine as well. You have the 108 which is basically four legs in a plastic tray in the
center. You have the 150, which has the plastic tray and two wheels and then you have the 200 which is
the one that we have our 535 mounted to which has a steel toolbox, that way you can put your pipe
wrenches in there if need be some basic tools, Your you know, just various different things your die
heads as well, you know your accessories for your machine different things like that. And it also
comes with retractable arms and two wheels as well. The die heads that are available for this machine
okay, are the eight 11a, the 815 a, 816 a and eight seventeen eighty heads. In this portion of
the video, I'm going to show you how to set up the 817 die head. That's what we're going to use with
the 535 a that you see over my left shoulder. Keep in mind, if there's also videos out there on RIDGID
today on YouTube, where you can reference for a lot of different things and part of the things that
are out there for example are the 811 a, 815 a, 816 a and eight seventeen a die heads but
once again, since we're going to use this for that machine that's what we're gonna start with. So I
have my die head here, the first thing I'm going to do is pull this plunger back and I'm gonna
slide the cam plate all the way over to where I can clear. For the pocket okay my dice they've
already been cleaned and as I've stated before in other videos, make sure even if they're new
that you wipe them down. Okay, there's very tight tolerances between the pockets and the die head
and the dies themselves. So you want to make sure that they're clean that way they don't get stuck
or jammed up. So I'm gonna grab dye number one and I'm gonna put it in the corresponding pocket.
To the line. And I'm gonna do the same with all the other ones, now sometimes you'll have a hard time
putting these in and that could be that they're either dirty or they're misaligned. So hopefully
that won't happen here but if it does, I'll show you what to do. Okay, so now I'm gonna hold this
lever in the open position and I'm gonna slide it over. And there you go, it's all set. In this portion
of the video, we're going to show you how to thread with the 535 egg. Make sure that your machine is
unplugged and minutes in the off position. Okay, I'm gonna put on my glasses here. And we'll go
ahead and mount the die head onto the carriage. Go ahead and guide the post into the hole in the
carriage making sure that it's straight, you don't want to bend that because if you move it one way
or the other it's going to miss a line to die hit.Okay, so we'll throw this out of the way and we'll
grab our pipe here and slide that into the spindle of the machine. Okay, and now I'm going to go ahead
and plug my machine in. And we'll go and put the machine in forward. Now there's three speeds to
this as we previously talked about and they're application-specific, so for inch and a quarter
pipe. We're gonna use 46 rpm, so I'm going to go ahead and move that over and put that at 46 rpm.
Okay, now I'm going to check with the foot switch and make sure that the pipe is correctly centered
in the spindle assembly and there you have it all for, all four jaws or grabbing the pipe now, so I'm
gonna bring my cutter down and I'm gonna move the handle and move the carriage. And if you're cutting
a specific length off of the pipe. Obviously, you'll put the cutter wheel on that mark. Okay, so once
I sense some tension there. I'm gonna go ahead and give it a quarter of a turn to get it set.
Turn the machine on and every time that that pipe makes one, I'm going to give this quarter return.
Doesn't really take long, because this machine is very quick. There you have it
so what I'll do, is I'll spin this back just to make sure that it's ready for
the next cut that I do. I'm gonna bring down the reamer and I'm gonna lock it
and slide it forward and it doesn't take a lot of force let the cutter do the work.
Forward applying moderate pressure and then we'll back it out. And swing that out of the way as
well and remember guys this is the operator side of the machine, so anything that you're
not using is going to go away, from you anything that you're using you want to bring towards you.
Okay, so now I'm going to bring down the die head. Put it in the working position and once
again, you've got four sizes here as we've as we've stated in previous videos, so I'm going
to set this for inch-and-a-quarter. I'm going to push down on this handle and likely hold the die
head with my other hand. And just slide that to the inch-and-a-quarter position and release it
in there it locks in. Okay, what's going to happen is unlike a 8:11 die head, where you need to swing
to throw out lever to get the dies to release. What I'm gonna do here is just bump this you
don't have to hit it real hard, all you have to do is just give it a slight bump and it'll release
itself and it'll index to the next size, if you prefer to hold it. It'll slide all the way down
and that's fine too whichever one you prefer. So we'll bring this back up to inch-and-a-quarter
and I'm going to turn the machine on now and as I approach. Make sure you have a good
flow of oil and why moderate pressure to the handbill to get the guys to bite into the pipe.
and once that happens you before a head let go. I'm gonna watch dine number one, where the last
tooth is embedded the end of the pipe. Hit this and there you've completed your threat. Thanks
for watching. Hi I'm Ed with RIDGID, today we're going to show you how to use the 819 nipple
Chuck the capacity for the 819 nipple Chuck is, from 1/8 to 2 inch a standard equipment
it comes with adapters to do 1/2, 3/4, 1 inch, inch and a quarter and inch and a half for 2-inch you
simply use the base. As you see here and this is where you would screw your pipe on. Ok, also what
comes with it is. Your nipple Chuck wrench, your insert and the hanger so that you could put all
your parts together. Ok, in the next video we're going to show you how to prepare the pipe so
that we can start the process of creating a closed nipple. In this portion of the video, we're going to
start doing our threads for the 819 nipple Chuck. Once you have your pipe inserted. In your machine.
As per the previous videos on the 535 m, you'll thread and ream the pipe as you normally would.
Now it's important that the thread is dimensionally correct and what I mean by
that is, it can't be oversized or under sized. If it is oversized, what's going to happen is it's
going to jam itself. Onto your adapter by way of the threads and at that point then you won't be
able to get it off unless you use a pipe wrench. If it's under sized, what's going to happen is
this part of it right here actually backs out when you release it. As you can see here. Okay,
and what happens at that point is. It will bury this to where you won't be able to get the pipe
off of there again, so you're gonna have to use a pipe wrench to get it off. So it's important that
this is dimensionally correct in other words, once again it's not oversize or undersized. Okay, what
we usually use here is a simple thread gauge and you can use a coupling as well. With the machine
in the off position, what you want to do with this here is you want to make sure that it is
flush plus or minus a thread. What you would do if you had a coupling is you would look at the specs
for a thread and determine how many threads of hand-tied engagement you should have and
at that point you'd make your determination if you need to be under sized or over sized.
So at this point, we're going to cut the pipe and what we're going to do is we're going to
use the scale. As you see here I'm going to put my cutter wheel against the end of the pipe. Put
this on zero and then I'm going to measure the length of the thread itself. And that is
about 7/8 of an inch. It is 7/8 of an inch, so you multiply that times two it's an inch and 3/4. So
we'll continue. To an inch and 3/4 right there and we're going to cut the pipe right there.
So we here, we have. Our pipe nipple that we're going to create, the nipple with. We'll take this
out of the way. And now we will install our 819 nipple Chuck. So what I'll do is I'll back the
carriage out, back the hand wheel so that the jaws in the open most position and what I'm
going to do is, I'm going to align these flats with the jaws. And you'll tighten that as such,
just like you just like you would the pipe. At this point, I'm going to use my insert for one
inch. So I'm gonna put that on there like so. I'm going to put my adapter on, and with the
machine off, what I'm going to do is I'm going to put my insert wrench on there.
And just make sure that that's good and snug. At this point, I will put um pardon
me I'll put my nipple on here. Okay, I'll turn my machine back on and now I will thread and
ream just as if you would, if it was a piece of pipe that was sticking out of the machine.
Okay so now with the machine off. What I'm going to do, is I'm going to push
the Lorentz pin into the housing of the 8:19 nipple Chuck. I'm going to
push that that way and release this. And there you have a closed nipple.