Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com.
Today I'm going to show you how to change out the rear wheel bearings on our 2007 Suzuki
GSX-R 1000R.
Not too tough, just need to make sure it's secured down, lift it up, and get that rear
wheel off.
So, before we get going, let's head over to the table and talk about the tools and the
parts we're going to need to pull this off.
Welcome to the tool table.
This is going to be a skill level two, but it's not going to be that severe.
Speaking of the tools, let's go over some of the ones that you're going to need to pull
this off.
I'm going to show you a couple of different techniques as far as taking the bearings out,
so either a, you're going to be using a bearing driver set or b, this really nice set from
Suzuki.
I'm going to show you how to do both, it's up to your wallet to decide which one you
want to go with.
Other than that, you're gonna need a couple of hammers, a dead blow, a regular one, a
36mm socket, 12mm wrench, 10mm wrench, a breaker bar, and some type of steel rod if you decide
to knock out the bearings without the kit.
And as always, gonna need a good torque wrench.
Now, if you would, go ahead and reference our exploded parts diagrams.
That's going to give you a clear picture of where everything is and keep in mind on this
particular bike, there's actually three wheel bearings that we're going to be working with.
So you want to make sure you get all of those and make sure that they're the correct ones.
So, once you've got all your tools and your parts together, we can go over there and I
can guide you through the process.
So let's go.
Alright, step one, bring the adjusters back for the chain tension.
All you have is just a 12mm lock nut and then a 10mm adjustment bolt going through it.
What we're trying to accomplish here once we loosen up the axle- it's a 36mm-- is to
be able to slide it far enough forward to where we can drop the axle out and get the
chain off of the sprocket.
We can walk it off the sprocket and lay it up and to the side.
Alright, typically I usually put one hand under the tire just to take some of the pressure
off and then the axle will slide right out.
At this point, take your caliper, slide it back, then hang it off to the side.
Now we can head over to the teardown bench.
As we're doing this guys, keep in mind, don't want to damage your brake rotor or any of
the surfaces of the rim.
To keep that a little safe, at least have some type of wood under it so nothing gets
gouged or scratched.
Now what we're after here is actually three separate bearings.
If you were looking at our parts diagram, you actually have a bearing that's inside
the sprocket hub and then two more that are in the wheel hub.
There's a couple of ways you can do this.
You can come to us and order a Suzuki OEM bearing puller kit, or we can use just a hammer
and a punch tool and knock out the bearing.
I'm going to show you both so you know there's an option if you don't want to break out the
hammer.
To start with, we're going to try using the Suzuki tool on the wheel assembly first.
Step number one, let's go ahead and get that seal out.
Take a screwdriver, pop it in the side, turn it as you're going around the edge, and she
will work her way up.
If you're using the kit there are several different extractors and the one we want to
use for the inner bearings is the 28mm.
We want that to go just under the edge of the inside of the bearing.
Going to take our push pin, alright it's grabbing where it needs to be, but we need to tighten
it up to expand it all the way in there.
As we tighten this down the pin goes in and expands the edges out.
So it's going to have a very firm grasp on the inside of the bearing.
Starting to tighten up.
There.
Now it's got a pretty firm hold of the inside of that bearing.
Now we take the tool, line up on the edges of the hub itself, start threading it in.
Let's grab it here and see if we can break it free.
One bearing and spacer.
Alright guys, now we're going to try an alternate process number two, which is just basically
a rod and a hammer.
And what I'm doing is just aiming toward as far as I can go out on the bearing.
It's actually on the inner race and we're kinda angling it in a little bit.
And we're going to see if we can drive it out.
Now I'm alternating back and forth so it doesn't get bound up.
Okay!
She's out!
Not nearly as elegant, but it got the job done.
And that was fun with the hammer and all that, but for this last bearing I'm going to go
back to the special tool because it was a whole lot smoother.
Now this one's just a little bit bigger if memory serves.
But first, let's get the seal out.
Same procedure: big screwdriver, turn, push.
Done.
And you'll notice this little collar here.
Go ahead and lift that out.
Suzuki says that a thirty millimeter one of these is supposed to pull that bearing out.
Well, no.
It bottoms out and it doesn't want to come out.
So what we're going to do is put this little adapter back in there and use the tool to
grab it and then pull it through.
There she goes.
Now it tightened up.
That should get it the rest of the way.
Game over.
Nice tool.
Expensive, but a good tool nonetheless.
There we go.
Bearings are removed, now we just need to start putting it back together.
So, let's start with the hub.
Alright, they make a special tool that will let you press this in.
You can use a press, I have one, but I'm just gonna use a bearing driver set to knock them
back in place.
If you do, make sure you have it supported by wood or some type of soft structure so
you don't scar up anything or worse yet: break it.
When Suzuki sends out their bearings, they do have some grease inside, but we want to
add too.
I prefer using the Yamaha, the race grease.
This is really high-quality stuff.
Now we're gonna do is take it and push it down inside the bearing.
Okay, so we're going to take our seal and we want the seal side facing in because we've
got the dust seal that goes to the outside.
So, before we get started with the bearing driver set, we're going to use the raw hammer
and just lightly tap around the edge to try to get it flush or centered to where it can
go down in there.
Because what you don't want to happen is to hit one side a little too much and then get
it stuck going in at an angle.
Now what you want with this is you want it to go all the way out to this outer section
of the bearing.
you just don't want to get a smaller one and get on the inside.
Because if you do that, you're going to damage the race and the ball bearings themselves.
Starts making that different sound, you know you've bottomed it out.
Next, grab our seal, go ahead and load it up with some grease on the inside that is.
We don't want to get it on the outside.
Same as with the bearing, we want to tap it lightly to get it centered.
Then go ahead and send it home.
With this, you do want to bring it off to the side because I just want it even with
the top of the hub.
Alright guys, this part's ready to go, let's go ahead and get those bearings driven into
the actual rear wheel.
And we want to start on the caliper rotor side, which is going to be the right side
of the machine.
Like we did on the other bearing, we want to go ahead and pack these surfaces in here
with some more grease.
And when you're installing these, the seal part is going to be facing outward.
Once again, you only want to get the driver that's going to reach out to the outside of
the bearing.
She's bottomed out.
Next, want to do the other side.
Now the trick here is to make sure that you're aligned on this spacer.
Let's go ahead and pack in our grease.
To keep that spacer centered, I'm going to put the rim up high enough and I'm actually
going to use the axle.
Use this to send it in.
Getting close.
That is it.
So now, I know that it's going to be lined up for the axle to go through that inner sleeve,
because it's the inner sleeve that's actually getting compresses in between the inner races
on each bearing, one on the right, one on the left.
With that out of the way, let's go ahead and take our leaning tower of Pisa down.
Our tire tower, that's what we're calling it.
Now, we just need to get that last seal in place.
There's no reason to pack this one because it is not facing any open bearings, but we
do want to put some just on the inside of this edge, all the way around there.
Getting close.
Alright, that should do it.
Let's go back over to the machine and get it remounted.
Alright, time to get our cushions back in place.
Make sure when you put these back in that these three little protrusions are facing
out.
Then this spacer on the outside.
Hit this side.
Bring your caliper around.
Alright, axle through.
Let's go ahead and get our chain back on.
Get our adjustment block in.
Washer.
That 36mm nut.
Only thing I need to do now is just set the tension on the chain itself.
Now listen, if you need detailed, step-by-step instructions on that, reference our sprocket
and chain replacement video.
I go through step-by-step how to set the tension on it just right.
Well alright guys, that wraps this one up.
Well listen, if you need any parts for your machine, why don't you come see us at Partzilla.com
and we can get you taken care of.
Have any questions or comments?
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