So if you’ve got an Ultimaker 2, you can upgrade it to a “+” version with Ultimaker’s
kit - or you can you use E3D’s custom-made kit with an all-metal v6 hotend and a Titan
extruder to upgrade the standard, “+” and Extended Ultimakers to an Ultimaker 2
E3D Edition.
So let’s have a look at what you’re getting.
Up top, you’ll find a nozzle kit, the Titan extruder and the toolhead with a preassembled
v6.
You’ll also get a sample of E3D Edge filament, a new wiring loom and a bag with - most importantly
- gummi bears, some heatshrink, the part cooling fan shrouds, a few fasteners as well as a
bowden removal tool.
In the Titan box, you’ll get a new extruder motor, the extruder body, drive gear and the
idler lever, as well a bag with screws and hex keys, which you can also use for the rest
of the assembly, and the motor cable.
In this metal box, you’ll find the full range of nozzles for the v6.
Before you start working on it, make sure your Ultimaker 2 is unplugged and cooled down,
then slowly push the bed all the way downwards to give yourself a bit more room to work with.
Start by removing both part cooling fans from the original printhead, then remove the bowden
clip and the bowden tube itself by pushing down on it with your fingers or the bowden
removal tool.
We will be reusing the fans and their screws, as well as the long M3 screws we will remove
next.
To completely remove the original printhead, pop out one end of the top rail while levering
off the black bearing block.
Next, unplug the part cooling fans by pulling on the white plugs instead of the wires, then
carefully screw the fans öonto the new fan shrouds, orienting the wires towards the taller
section of the shroud.
Now remove the temporary screws or zip ties from the new printhead and take a look at
how it fits together.
For the next few steps, i’ve laid the Ultimaker 2 onto its right side.
Start the assembly by pushing the black plate with the hotend onto the bottom bearing, making
sure the corner with the hotend mount is pointing towards the front right-hand corner of the
printer.
Then grab the wires and connectors from the part cooling fans and the hotend fan and feed
them through the center hole of the plate.
Add the white, grey and second black plate to trap the bearings, making sure to feed
the wires through each plate.
Loosely slide the original, long M3 screws through the corner holes and connect the new
wiring harness.
The connectors only fit one way.
Now we’re going to start tightening up the printhead by adding a washer and an M3 nut
to each screw, then tightening them while keeping the nuts from spinning with a wrench
or some pliers.
Then add another nut and a washer, positioning them about half an inch or 15mm away from
the end of the thread.
Next, snap on the hotend cooling fan from towards the back of the printer, with the
overhanging lip towards the top of the printhead.
Then add the part cooling fan assemblies and secure them in place with another washer and
a nut.
Make these flush with the end of the thread, then tighten down the top nut.
We’re almost done with the printhead - now would be a good time to check that the silicone
sock on the hotend is properly seated on the heater block and the nozzle’s bore is centered
on the opening.
Tilt the Ultimaker 2 back into its upright position, push the new bowden tube into the
fitting as far as it will go and secure it in place with the clips from the original
assembly.
And that’s the printhead completed!
Let’s get your new Titan extruder installed.
We’ll start by removing the wire shroud with these two screws, and we’ll then unclip
the bowden tube like before and unscrew the original extruder.
Support it with your hand inside the printer to keep it from falling onto the bed.
We’ll now add the new extruder block and secure it onto the new motor with this screw.
Hold the block, screw and allen key with one hand and then add the motor with other and
screw them together.
Then add the drive gear, bowden adapter and filament guide.
Complete the idler spring assembly by adding the nut and spring to the M4 screw, then mount
the idler lever and snap the spring assembly in place.
Then screw on the top, the shorter of the four M3 screws goes in the hole closest to
the bowden fitting.
Check that the extruder lever operates smoothly, then install the remaining end of the bowden
tube into the bowden fitting.
For the last step, we’ll wire everything into the Ultimaker 2’s electronics.
Holding the original extruder motor, lay the printer onto its left side, then remove the
bottom electronics cover by removing these two screws, which are tightened into these
nuts.
Then remove the mainboard by undoing these four screws and, using a screwdriver to lift
the tab if necessary unplug the wires marked “Temp 1”, “E1”, “Fan PWM” and
“fan 5V”.
Press down on the orange spots to release the heater wires.
Then pull out the original wiring and remove the extruder motor.
You can now feed in the new wiring harness, tucking it in on the the opposite side from
the Titan’s drive gear and behind its idler lever.
Also connect the new extruder motor wire and we can start reconnecting everything to mainboard.
Push the two wires marked “Heater” into the two terminals closest to the rear of the
printer.
After pulling the motor cable down into the compartment.
plug it in at E1 with the red wire facing towards the other motor wires.
Newer kits will come with a white connector instead of this black one.
Connect the wire marked “PT100” to “Temp 1”, “Part fan” to “Fan PWM” and
“Heatsink fan” to the header marked “24V”, making sure the black wire is oriented towards
the edge of the board.
Then slide the mainboard back into position, making sure not to get any wires caught, and
reattach it with a screw in each corner.
Then replace the electronics cover by lining up the tabs, pushing it in and fixing it in
place with the two nuts and black screws.
Replace the wiring cover and screw it in.
And you’re done with the hardware conversion!
Now would be a good time to open up those gummy bears for a snack, but we’re not quite
done yet.
The last thing we need to do is to upgrade the firmware on your Ultimaker 2.
Open up a version of the classic Cura 15.04, and select Machine -> install custom firmware,
then select the .hex file provided by E3D.
When uploading is done, your Ultimaker 2 will restart and after adjusting the build plate,
you can start printing with your Ultimaker 2 E3D edition.
Now add the ED3 sticker and you’re done.
Happy printing!
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