Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com. Today i'm going to show
you how to replace the front wheel bearings on our 2016 Yamaha YXZ1000R. It is a
fairly involved process, and there is a special tool that you're going to need
to pick up if you're going to do this correctly. Also, we are diving in fairly
deep so you want to look at our exploded parts diagrams. That's going to give you
a really clear picture of how everything comes apart, and more importantly how
we're gonna put it all back together. But I'm gonna walk you through step by step
how we're going to do this. Now you notice on the exploded diagram, there are
two bearings per side, so you need to order accordingly. Also, the inner and the
outer seals, they're actually different part numbers. So make sure you order
those individually. Now that you've got your parts in hand, we can get started.
Alright guys, let's get started. First thing we want to do is take off
the axle nut, and that is a 32 millimeter. I'm using an air impact, but if you don't
have one, have somebody hold the brakes and that should be enough to break it
loose. We're going to go ahead and pull off the brake caliper assembly just at
the bracket itself. The brake caliper bracket is held in by fourteen
millimeter bolt-- one up here at the top, another one down at the bottom. What
we're gonna do next is just take off this one bracket, and then we're gonna
bring up the caliper and just zip tie it to that front bracket. Next, let's get the
steering ball joint off-- or control arm, whatever you want to call it. Should be a
cotter pin down here, and a castle nut is a 19 millimeter, and then there will be a
washer up under that. Make sure you don't misplace it. Unscrew the castle nut to
where it's even with the bottom of the joint. Then we're gonna get a soft blow
hammer, tap it. Hopefully that'll knock it out of the the knuckle, but don't remove
it until we do that. Sometimes a soft blow will not do it. You have to go with
regular steel one, as I was saying. That get it? Yep, that did.
Good way to keep this together: go ahead and put the washer and the castle nut
onto the end of it. One, you won't lose it. Two, lessens the risk of damaging it. Now
let'sahead and get this cotter pin out of the way. Get that lower castle nut
removed. Alright, stop there. Let's go ahead and take off the lower shock mount.
That's a 14 on one side and a 17 nut on the other. Make life a little bit easier,
getting creative with a couple of bungee cords to hold the shock up out of the
way. What I'm gonna do is I've got another nut with the same thread pitch
and diameter. I'm gonna put it on the end of it and
then I can hit this with a hammer. Otherwise I'd be marring the edges the
castle nut, because it's gonna take a little bit more than just a gentle tap
to break this loose. What I'm doing here is just lifting it up and putting on a
jack stand. That way I have more distance I can swing the hammer to hit the nut,
and hopefully this will give me enough distance where I can hit it hard enough
just knock it loose out of the hub itself. I think that finally got it.
I've deformed it to the point the socket won't go on it anymore. Now you see why I
put a different nut on there. Had I used a harder metal that wouldn't deformed so
easily? Probably wouldn't have been a problem. But didn't, so we're gonna try to
use the impact to get that nut off. A castle nut would not have survived
this. But it's clear now. Now let's get this out of the way, see if we can get
this to pull through the hub. There we go. Now, let's hold the whole shootin' match up so we
can get that axle out. It wasn't absolutely necessary to remove that from
the front differential, I just didn't want it in my way. So a couple of pulls
and it was out of there. Another cotter pin. Now let's go ahead and get off this
other castle nut and then our entire hub would be out of the way. What I did just
then was pinched the steering arm mount up against the upper control arm. That
way I was able to get enough leverage to get it to release. So what we're gonna do
next is reattach this bungie to the shock, get it held up out of the way.
We're going to take off the circlip on the top of the ball joint and then drive
it out through the upper a-arm. Tell you what, where we can get a solid hit on
this, I'm going to go ahead and move the shock. Yahtzee. Go ahead an get this guard
out of the way, and this is held in by three four millimeter bolts. As you can
see I've removed the ball joints although it's not necessary for this
particular video. That's actually part of a different video, and if you need help
replacing yours, why don't you check out this units playlist and I can walk you
through that process. So let's get it clamped down in our vise,
go ahead and get the seals out. We should be able to just use a flat blade
screwdriver and walk them out.
One, there's two. Alright guys, we've got the seals out and that was the easy part.
But now here comes the tough part. We need to get those bearings pulled out,
and the only way I know how to do it is to use a blind bearing puller, and it
needs to be a high quality one, which I have. Now granted it's kind of pricey.
I've done a little bit of research and it is possible to use a drift or a punch,
reach down into the hub, catch this edge on the back side or the bottom side of
that collar, and then hopefully drive it out. That is a long shot. If you're really
patient, you might be able to drive it through but you may end up just driving
that inner race out. This? This is a sure thing. Although like I said, it's kind of
expensive. So it's what I'm going to use. It's the
right way to do it. If you have to use just a punch? All I can say is wear a
pair of glasses and be very careful because you don't want it shattering and
flying back up in your eyes. But that being said, let me get this thing set up, put it
down in the vise. All I'm doing is taking this edge and getting it just on the
inside of that bearing. I'm gonna expand it out and hopefully be able to pull it
through. I just need to find that edge right there.
The good part is once the bearings are out, then we can use the press to
pop them right back in. Really easy at that point. There she comes.
One bearing. Here's our collar. Don't forget to put that back in. But doing
this again, I can take it out of the vise and show you where this has to be set up
as far as the depth goes for it to grab and extract it. That's where she needs to
grab, right there. Just on the inside of the bottom of the inner race. That should
do it. Let's go. Makes it look easy, doesn't it?
She's out. So let's get this cleaned up, take it over to the press, and drop those
new bearings in. She's cleaned up, we've picked out a driver that's gonna make
contact with the outer edge-- very important-- and that's the one we're gonna
use to drive in both bearings. Getting ready to press in the first bearing.
We're gonna do the outside one first. And it probably doesn't make any difference,
but it's just standard practice for me I usually have the the stamped areas of
the bearing, maybe have the model number on them from the manufacturer, have that
facing out. Does it really make that much of a difference? Probably not. Just the
way I like to do things.
Bottomed out. Now flip it over, take that out,
don't forget your collar, and other bearing. Touchdown. Good to go. Let's get
our seals pressed in. We'll start with the outside seal first. Of course it's the
little bit smaller one. And what we're gonna use to drive this on is just a
collar that fits around that edge that drives in on the outside edge of the
seal itself. It'll basically go down flush with the outside edge of the hub
itself and I think we're pretty much there. It looks like it. Flip it over and
then we do the inside. Do set it up here to where it's on the inside like that new seal
and doesn't damage it.
I probably should have done the inside first but don't make the same mistake I
did.
That should do it. Last order of business is to go ahead and pack in some grease
around the seal, around that edge. Both sides. At this point, you should be ready
to go ahead and reinstall it back on the machine. However, I still have to
reinstall the ball joints. So once I get that done, then we can get it reinstalled.
Alright, we're gonna go ahead and get our castle nut tightened down on that
upper ball joint. We're gonna take it to 51 foot-pounds. We're gonna go and get it
snugged down with this. Now you may have to force this down into the knuckle to get
it to hold on to it because it's spinning. Now what i'm doing here is I'm
just gonna seat the ball joint into the knuckle so it doesn't spin. Once it
actually bottoms out, it's game over. It's just getting it there it can be a little
bit tricky. Gotcha. May be a little bit tricky holding
this still. So we're gonna temporarily put a steering arm through so I can get
this torqued. Probably leave it in there.
There we go. Where you attach this line. Let's hold this up to reinstall the axle. There
it is. Now put a little bit more grease on the end of our half shaft so it doesn't
wear out those inner seals, and in the event we ever have to replace the
bearings on this, it'll come out and not be frozen. There. starting to come
together guys, starting to come together. So kind of the same process down here. We
need it to set in place. I want get this castle nut started. We're gonna
bring it up, put some pressure on this where it's pushing it up in there. See if
that's got enough pressure to hold it.
Got it. Go ahead and do 51 on that one, then go ahead and get out our cotter
pins. Alright doesn't quite line up on that hole, so we're gonna move it just a
little bit more. That should do it. Let's go ahead and get in our top one.
That's it. Now we can go and remount the shock. This is 17 on the nut side and a
14 on the bolt side. 47 coming up. One more time down here. Before we go any
further, let's go ahead and torque down the tie-rod bolt. 29 foot-pounds on this.
There we go. And it does have a cotter pin. Let's go ahead and get our our
shield back on, and it's just held in with three four millimeter Allens.
Next let's put some grease inside of our hub, on the splines, and also on the
surface area right here so it doesn't destroy that seal too quickly. Keep the
grease off the brake disc, though. We'll go and put this on just hand tight.
Alright guys, we're getting ready to torque down this bolt and it takes 268 pounds,
and there's no way the braking system can hold it by itself. So there's only
two ways I know of. Either A) to put a breaker bar through here and let it go
against the ground, which is what we're gonna do. Or you can finish putting the
machine together, take out that center cap, lower it down with a wheel in place,
and then you can get the torque on it. But we're going to use a breaker bar to
get this done, and actually my torque wrench only goes to 260 but we're gonna
call that good. Go till it clicks and then flex it just a little bit more to
get those last eight in there. So now we're gonna just stake it in place.
There we go. We are getting close. We're down to the caliper now. Get these
bottomed out and then we'll torque them to 35 foot-pounds. One left to do. Alright
guys, that's gonna wrap this one up. Only thing I have left to do now-- or you have
left to do now-- is just to remount the tire and wheel. But as you can see, I
still have a lot more work to do, so we're not going to worry about that
right now. Well listen, if you need these parts for your machine or anything else,
why don't you come see us at partzilla.com and we can get you taken
care of. If you have any questions or comments, why don't you leave them in the
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