-All right, now we're going to talk
about blocking your body filler out.
It's already had body filler applied.
Dent's been repaired, body filler applied.
Blocks come in different sizes.
Generally you want to use the biggest block that you can,
depending on the size of the dent.
A smaller dent, that of course would be probably too much
there.
So you can use a smaller block.
The bigger block you use, the more level your body filler's
going to be.
You've got different grades of sandpaper.
Generally you're going to start with something like 36
to rough it out.
That'll sand it real fast.
Again, on a smaller dent, that's a little bit of overkill.
You'll probably just start with 80.
But a considerable, pretty good sized dent,
you can start with 36.
And then you can move to 80 grit, which
will eliminate your 36-grit scratches.
It's finer.
And then, before you prime, you'll finish it out with 150.
So I'm going to start out with the 80-grit on this one.
One of the biggest mistakes whenever sanding body filler is
you sand too much, undercut it, and you basically
sand filler back out of the imperfections
that it's left behind.
So you don't want to over sand it, but when you're sanding,
you want to be sure and cross sand.
You don't want to go one direction the whole time,
or make it in a pattern or follow a certain contour
and then have a wave in it.
And also, on your edges, that helps feather edge your edges
in by cross sanding.
So be sure and go all directions when you're sanding.
You always want to keep your block level and flat also.
If you see there is a spot that's a little bit below,
you never want to try to sand that spot out of there.
I mean, I've seen it to where you're trying to get it smooth,
and that's what you're thinking, I want it smooth
and there's a spot there.
Let me sand that out.
You want that spot to indicate itself to you,
so always keep the block flat.
Notice I'm cross sanding and going
back and forth different ways.
Now I can see, before I even feel it, this edge,
I still have an edge here.
You want all your edges to kind of feather into the metal.
You want them to feather into the metal
where the body filler gradually fades into the metal.
You don't want no definite edges like right here.
That needs to be sanded out.
We're kind of concentrating more on this edge
right now because that's good back here,
this edge right here.
I'm going to make that feather, that gradual edge
by cross sanding.
When I get it just about to where I want,
I even kind of sand lighter, too.
We've got an edge here from the paint,
and we'll have to feather edge that,
which we'll talk about that later.
Right now, that feels good.
I think it feels low and everything.
So now I'm going to stop sanding with my 80
and I'm going to switch to 150.
But before I do, I put just a little bit of guide coat
on there.
And what this is going to do is indicate any lows or scratches
that may be left behind.
Just want to put just a light dust coat on.
This would be the step here, if you
did have some imperfections or a low area that was not filled,
that's when you'd go ahead and apply some more body
filler to it the second time.
So now I'm going to continue doing my cross sanding.
See how it kind of indicates where some of the scratches
are?
We want to get those out, but once those are out,
that's good enough or we're going to start undercutting.
Now what we will do is we'll get a DA that's 150
and we'll feather edge this edge where
you don't feel that edge there.
But you've got to be careful not to get the DA on your body
filler, or else you'll undercut your body filler.
And we'll feather that out and it'll be ready for primer.