hey guys jay here welcome to younza battle we all know the best part of this hobby is painting
but to get that perfect paint job you need a perfectly built
model and stay tuned till the end to see what the eob complete community has been up to this week
i'm kidding around obviously painting isn't everyone's favorite part some people like
collecting some people like complaining and some weirdos even like gaming the building
stage is a very important and fun part of the hobby with painting you decide what colors the
model should be but during the building stage you decide how the model should be tabletop wargaming
miniatures are usually much simpler than model tank kits with dozens of parts instead of hundreds
but it still is often the most involved phase where you really make the big decisions and decide
on what story the model is telling without further ado i have a fresh box of plastic crack here
come with me as i turn this box into five awesome orcs the first step in getting your models built
is a clean workspace so i took my finest hand broom and gave my workspace a nice sweeping sweep
some things to know right off the bat it's pretty simple this is the model's frame
better known as a sprue and everything else are the models parts or bits then you need to assemble
your tools the most important tool is the hobby knife the number 11 blade is the one you want but
i also find uses for the number 18 chisel as well it's super important to work with fresh blades
paradoxically a dull blade is a dangerous blade i would say every new box of models
should get a fresh blade next you will need a clippers these go by many different names
flush wire cutters pointed side cutters flush nippers micro shears but they're all invaluable
you can gouge the models off the sprue with a knife but you will quickly find that once
you go nippers you never go back after that you need some glue super glue is a go-to it dries
fast and bonds strong but plastic glue will be the stronger choice for plastic to plastic bonds
those three are the needs and now for the nice to haves first are files i like to have a few
nail files lying around it is easier to use than the exacto and the coarse and rough sides are a
nice option i own some real steel files too but i don't use them that often mostly for working
with metal miniatures after that some gap filler putties wouldn't be a bad idea sometimes a model
doesn't go together perfectly and in those situations it's nice to have a gap-filling
putty another quality of life tool is the hand drill these are great for drilling gun barrels
or pipes so that they have a more authentic hole where the pew pews come out and a prep
list wouldn't be complete without mention of a paint handle not everyone likes to use a handle
to hold up a mini while painting but for a lot of people they find it much more comfortable there's
a lot of products out there but for me i like to use a little cube of wood and some poster tack
so for this project i am building some ork knobs this is the gut ripa and gang box but i bought it
on ebay and it didn't come with the boss so i'm just building me up some knobs first things first
i know it's not easy but you really should have a look through the instructions it'll save you time
you'll get to know the kit in all of its parts and it'll lead to fewer mistakes down the road
so the first step according to the instructions is to clip the bodies and legs this is a
pretty typical of infantry kits but follow the instructions you can get into trouble fast if you
just start clipping everything some model parts are specifically numbered or keyed into different
poses and need to be assembled together and if you lose those numbers it becomes a jigsaw puzzle
to clip models with the nippers you want to get the blades of the snips close to
but not flush you want to leave a little bit of the sprue so that you can go in later and use
your hobby knife to carve away what is left of the sprue leaving you with a perfectly smooth model to
carve away these nubs just slice away what's left of the sprue with a few small passes if the blade
is resisting and not cutting easily switch it out for a fresh one for less important areas like the
bottoms of his feet it can be quicker and easier to just blast these areas with a few swipes of
a nail file to get rid of the sprue bump on most model kits you'll find some mold lines these are
small raised lines of extra plastic left over from the molding process you can feel them if you run
your fingernail over the line and it's important to remove them i find the best way is to gently
scrape these areas with a hobby knife you want to make many long and low pressure scrapes to remove
the lines if you press too hard you'll gouge into the plastic and this can leave ugly marks
just make lots of soft scrapes until the line disappears if the mold line is in a convenient
spot like here on the backs of these orc knobs you can just use a nail file now these orcs have
a nasty mold line on the inseam of their pants but i'm not going to worry about that if this was
a hero where people were going to look at it from all angles i would fix this but for rank and file
infantry no one will ever notice that there's a line under his ass life is too short and no one
will ever see it i worked carefully cleaning every little mold line and sprue nub until everything
was smooth and tidy this made a little mess so i went ahead and brushed my workspace clean again
you'll be surprised how fast the mess will accumulate and it'll slow you down later if
you don't keep on top of it now it comes to the glue i like tamiya extra thin cement for all my
plastic to plastic bonds it's nice and easy to use with the applicator brush in the cap super
glue is great too it dries in seconds and works on a lot of materials like wood plastic and metal
but plastic glue is stronger in the long run for this job i'm using some tamiya extra
thick glue which is the tamiya thin with some sprue thrown in the plastic dissolves and make
a paste that dries strong like the plastic glue but is thick like super glue i brushed the glue
onto one half and then pressed the two parts into one another the thick plastic glue does a good
job of squishing as the two halves combine and makes for a nice solid weld even when there's not
perfect part-to-part contact now i can see that there is a nasty gap between the body and the top
and i'm very tempted to fill this but because i looked at the instructions i know that the
shoulder pads will cover a lot of this area so i might not need to bother i went ahead and clipped
the shoulders from the sprue and in areas where the nippers might be too bulky or too aggressive
like these little shoulders i went in and cut them out with my hobby knife i particularly like to use
the big chisel blade for this this lets me go in later when i have more room and control to clip
these flush and then clean them with a hobby knife i picked out my 10 shoulders from the options in
the kit and then put the rest aside i might use them later then i cleaned my workspace again
at this point i was still worried about that gap so i dry fit the shoulders
this means i placed them on with no glue to see how they would fit they do cover most of the
shoulders but there is still a little spot right behind the neck that's going to need some filling
so to fill these gaps i broke out the tamiya basic putty i made myself some applicators using
some coffee stirrers and to give myself a nice edge i trim them with a wire cutter this stuff
is great it dries very fast to use it i applied some tamiya extra thin cement to the area then
spread on a little goop i scraped away the excess and allowed it a few minutes to dry then i went
in with a nail file and filed these areas smooth once this was done it'll be like there never was
a gap in the first place to me a basic modeling compound is lacquer based and so does have some
harmful fumes that can make for not the most pleasant hobby experience if fumes are something
you worry about you could also use a less aggressive pace like deluxe perfect plastic putty
with my gaps filled i went ahead and glued on the shoulders with my tamiya extra thick cements
i applied a drop to both halves and then squished the parts into each other the shoulders were all
different so i gotta flex my creative muscles by picking the shoulders i like the best for each orc
now looking at the instructions again they say to pick out the heads next but i think i'll
hold off for now the heads i pick will probably depend on the poses and weapons i choose later
so skipping over the heads i looked over the instructions at all the lovely weapon options
and picked a few outs this is also probably a good time to check with your rules army codex
or battlescribe to see what the hot weapons are this edition i picked out my bits and then found
them on the sprues i clipped these out the same way i did the work bodies and legs leaving the
little nub of the sprue remaining to be cleaned later i painstakingly cleaned every one of those
weapons so they were all set to be glued onto the orc bodies working slowly and carefully this was
a bit tedious but worth it once again my space was a mess so i quickly cleaned up and got back to it
now i have my orc bodies and their weapons but i don't want to make any mistakes so i'm going
to test out the weapons to see if i like how they look and to do this i will be using the magic of
poster tack or blue tack this is a mildly sticky reusable putty that will allow me to stick on the
arms and get a look at them without committing to gluing them in place i just pull off a little
bit roll it into a ball and then stick it in the joint for example on this knob i wasn't
sure which power claw i liked best so poster attack let me see what each option looked like
i did the same thing to the rest of the boys and this also let me see how they all look together
here's the squad and i wasn't quite happy with a few of them i decided to give the boss
knob a left hand power claw instead so that he could hold the last right-handed chopper sword
there that's the look i want now that i know 100 that i'm happy with my picks i glued them in place
pulling off the poster tack and replacing it with more tamiya thick glue if you have any trouble
pulling off the poster tack it sticks very well to itself so just use a bigger ball of putty to help
pull away those stubborn bits i glued the chopper swords on but for these big two-handed saws i'm
going to hold off on gluing for now they cover up a significant amount of the model and would
make getting a paint brush in there difficult so it'll make painting easier if those swords were
left off the model more on that later and for my boss knob i wasn't completely satisfied with
the range of motion for his arms so i decided to add a little green stuff putty in between
green stuff is a two-part epoxy resin that makes for a really nice sculpting medium it has a long
working time and even if you're not a sculptor you should have some of this in your hobby bin
for situations like this i started by pulling off enough putty to get the job done and kneading the
two halves together when it turns green you're good to go i use my hobby knife to score the
areas that will get green stuff a little grit will help the glue and putty make a strong connection
i pulled off little balls of green stuff and super glued them into the joints then after the
super glue had dried fully i carefully pressed the parts together and used a silicone sculpting brush
to smooth these areas out if you don't have a silicone brush a damp toothpick works too
luckily orcs are messy in general so it's okay if you don't do a perfect job of sculpting
i just made these areas nice and smooth now that i have my boys and their weapons it's time i went
back and gave them some heads saving the heads for this point was a good move because now i
know the poses and can pick heads to match i found the heads available in knob kit and clipped them
out but there was only a couple that i really liked luckily for me i had some aftermarket
bits these orc heads are not made by games workshop and are instead from a company called
spellcrow these will do great to glue the resin heads to the plastic orcs i need to use super glue
the plastic glue melts plastic and weld them together but it doesn't do anything to resin
so this is why you need both for the plastic heads i use my tamiya thick glue this guy
with the swords up really shows the benefits of waiting because he needs a screamy yelly face but
i might have been stuck with the orc frowny face picking the heads that match the pose is important
now my boys are assembled and they all have their war gear i almost forgot about this little fella
but you know what i didn't almost forget about our patreon if you enjoy our videos the best way
to support us is by becoming a member of our patreon over there you'll get access to some
behind the scenes content voting on what models i paint live here on youtube as well as extra live
streams every week and more with that out of the way let's get back to the building these knobs
are now done being built technically but i would suggest putting on as many decorations as you can
these are what will make your models feel like yours i went over the sprues and clipped out
anything i liked the look of and this is a good point where you could also do some kit
bashing that's where you take parts from other kits and put them onto this project
with all my fun parts selected i carefully cleaned them up and started finding spots for them to go
on the minis this was the most fun part of the build looking at each guy finding interesting
pieces that would fit and help me tell a story each orc got a little something and i think the
models are much better for it it adds some nice character these aren't just orc knobs they aren't
even the box art knobs they are my knobs now with the models done it's time to get these bad boys
ready for painting i got out my preferred paint handles small cubes of wood and some poster tack
since orcs have such big fat feet i had no problem just super gluing them down onto the paint handles
super glue doesn't bond plastic to wood very well so i can just snap them off later when
it's time to put them on some nice scenic bases and speaking of basing you've come to the right
place we have tons of unique and simple basic tutorials that you can find on our basing playlist
these three boys were easy but these fellows with the big two-handed saws needed a little
more finesse i glued down their bodies to the paint handles but for their saws i wanted to
paint them separately so i pinned them instead of gluing to do this i took a paper clip and a
drill bit the same size as the paper clip and i drilled a small hole in the saw i attached it and
made another hole on my paint handle and attached the other end of the paper clip so that the weapon
was held in the same orientation that it would be if it was still attached to the model this way i
will be sure to get my lighting correct when i'm painting the other saw didn't have a great spot
for a hole so i hid one under one of the hands and did the same paper clip trick attaching it
from one saw to my painting handle you can also attach these to their own painting handle but i
like keeping things together this is called sub assemblies the big saws are now out of the way
and will make painting much easier but because i'm not gluing the swords on first i'll have to think
about gluing them on after the painting is done so i got out more poster tack and made a few balls to
stick in the connection points to keep the paint off when the painting is done i can peel those off
and have nice clean plastic to plastic joints to glue and i can't forget about this little fella i
gave him his own paint handle with my arcs done it was time for one more cleaning and you might
think we were done but not quite there are still plenty of nice bits on those sprue so i clipped
off everything left and prepared a bits bag with the name of the kit so that if i ever want one of
these parts in the future i know where to look you can also trade bits with other wargamers or
even exchange them for fast food hey nick i'll give you my orc bits if you buy me mcdonald's
i dumped all the bits into my bag and tossed the sprue in the garbage
and now my orcs are ready for paints but i like to take a pause at this point this is my last
chance to make any changes before i put paint on and i like to try and find that five percent
i can add to really make my models perfect for these rough and ready orcs i decided their armor
and weapons needed a little texture so i broke back out the gap filler and took an old brush
and began stippling on some grit the gap filler will make a very subtle texture on the model but
in some areas i wanted a more extreme texture so i got out the vallejo industrial thick mud
this is a blend of acrylic and fine sand and powders and will make for a much bolder texture
i apply this sparingly on the armor and weapons over top of the gap filler paste
and last but not least i drilled my barrels on most wargaming models there will be some guns
that can use a barrel drilled even on these sword-wielding orcs there are some pipes and
exhausts that could use a little hole added for realism so i broke out my hobby drill and my
smallest drill bits and drilled those holes and now my knobs are perfect and ready to get primed
i broke out my preferred primer style res black primer and put it through the airbrush
but a rattle can like rust-oleum black primer was my go-to for years and will do the job just fine
no matter what spray you use make sure you wear a mask for protection i hose down my orcs and in no
time they are one step closer to paint now with the primer applied you could be done but i like
to give myself a xenothal highlights i put a few drops of white paint or ink into my airbrush and
spray the model directly from above what this does is it gives me a basic idea of where light would
fall on the model and is a map for me to follow while painting and here are the boys the mark of
a good build job is how excited you are for the next step you don't want these models to go into
the pile of shame and with my knobs so lovingly built i am beyond excited to get paint on them
well wasn't that fun that is every trick i know about getting your models built right
it can be tempting to just glue them up fast because you're eager to paint or eager to play
but it's worth taking your time on this the art of miniatures is just as much about the building
as the painting and even the best paint jobs will look poopy on top of a half-assed build job
putting together miniatures can be a fun relaxing exercise in problem solving and decision making
this is where you make the models into your minis with the models built and prepared for painting
the only thing left is to pick your colors and brushes and get some paint on those minis
well folks that's how i prep my models let me know in the comments if you have any special techniques
your secret sauce of model building i hope you enjoyed the video and now it's time to see what
the eob complete community has been up to this week we put out a challenge to our community to
send us before and after photos of their recently finished models to be immortalized in our videos
if you want to join in the fun you can send us a before and after photo of your painted mini
to our discord server which can be found in the description below or you can post it to instagram
with the hashtag eobcomplete without further ado let's look at and get inspired by what folks have
finished this week a blade guard veteran by table top tips a necron army by caliban lost a plague
terminator by the happy heretic an orc warrior by arcane an angry dwarf by gavin ladd an astro
militarum sentinel by just stuff a baby night by spaghetti wizard a noble hero by bungster an
anagar dune crawler spider by venom sand an old metal bloodthirster by moose a kit-bashed orc
knight by reiki's an assault centurion by canary a noble croot by teravo krait a salamander space
marine by iklo's homework volume 101 captain cinnabon the bunny pirate by that polar burrito
a blood angel by big monkey a trio of inceptors by mr altire a plague priest conversion by goldie751
a unique space marine by cleveland enterprises a great vermin lord by model miniatures beast
a diorama by war hammered and some plague marine terrain by alka-seltzer congratulations to
everyone for a job well done it's no small feat to get paint on a mini and you all should feel really
proud nothing gets the hobby juices flowing like finishing a project and we all thank you
for sharing your work motivating us and the hobby community to paint our plastic thanks for sharing