- What's going on Chemical Guys family?
Thanks so much for tuning in for today's episode
of Chemical Guys detail garage.
Now we have this really awesome Jeep Patriot
in the shop which we've recently washed it
and also we enhanced the undercarriage of the vehicle.
But as we were walking around it inspecting the paintwork
we saw that it has minor scuffs and scratches
throughout the vehicle as well as
some superficial scratches that we're
going to show you how to properly remove today
using our TORQ 10FX.
(intense music)
So this is our TORQ 10FX Dual Action Polisher
with an eight milometer throw,
which means that it oscillates and also
rotates with an eight milometer offset
which covers about the standard size
of your vehicle which is also attached
to a five inch backing plate which is
also a standardized pad, and this is going to
gently remove a fine layer of the clear coat
while refining the finish to give it this
mirror-like gloss.
As you can see already, the car has
a beautiful shine, it has a lot of the
metallic flake enhance because
the owner routinely details this,
but things happen where you get
scratches on your vehicle, you can drag
your belt across and cause these deeper scratches.
This looks like a shopping cart was done
or possibly hit the vehicle that's done this.
So you can remove it using one simple polish
which is the VSS.
This is a scratch and swirl remover
designed to be a one step polish,
which means it's only a one pass
or a one product for your polishing step.
That doesn't mean you don't need to wash
the car or clay the car,
but since this car has already been detailed,
it's already been through that process
so we're going to jump right into the polishing step.
But again, a one step just means
you're only using one type of polish or compound.
This starts off as a micro-abrasive that
diminishes and refines into a final polish.
We're going to use about the size of one hex
or one dime size, we're going to do five
of those dime size dots.
And also using some pad conditioner
which helps to moisten the pad
which reduces friction and also
cuts down any kind of dusting.
And a lot of people ask us,
"How do you polish on body lines or contours?"
So I'm going to show you the proper steps
that I use which will show you across this area here.
But what we're going to do first
is work on this deeper scratch
and what we're going to do to start off
is botch it out
in about a two foot by two foot section
which is about your shoulder width apart.
On the lowest speed setting, we're going to
spread this out into an even coat
and on the highest speed setting on our
dual action polisher, we're going to
refine it and break it down until
it diminishes into a very clear or
translucent product and we'll
wipe it off and check our work.
(buzzing sound)
So now the product is spread out,
we're going to bump it up to the higher
speed setting but you want to make sure
that the pad is completely flat at all times,
this way you're not digging in which could
stall the pad which means you're not actually
doing any correction, but you also
want to make sure that you're not
creating a hotspot by dipping or diving
too much or applying too much pressure.
So what I recommend doing is apply,
or whichever hand is your dominant hand,
that'll be your guiding hand,
and you want to move about an inch per second,
that'll be your arm speed, just keeping an eye
on which way you're dipping and diving, but
don't want to obviously stop the pad
so that's why we have these lines on the backing plate.
Those will show you that the pad is constantly spinning
and this way you'll know that
you're actually correcting.
But we're also going to use the
cross-hatching pattern which removes
an even amount of clear coat.
This way you get the best finish overall.
So now again we're going to bump it up
to the highest speed setting and
this will do actual paint correction.
(upbeat music)
So now you see that the product has
gone basically translucent, or clear,
and now it's time to bump off the excess.
I'm just going to take a clean rubber towel
and wipe away the spent product
so we can check our work.
But you can see using the
cross-hatching pattern just like you're
mowing a lawn that removes an even
amount of clear coat or refines that top layer.
This way you get a uniform shine
without any tiger stripes or holograms.
And again you want to make sure you're
moving about an inch per second,
this way again you're not moving too fast
which is not correcting enough or
you're leaving behind some polish
that can become micro scratches.
But something I wanted to mention also
is a lot of you guys ask is,
"How do you polish up against these body lines
or curves on a vehicle?"
If your car has a lot of the rounded edges
it's fine to roll across it as long
as the pad is mostly flat as you're working.
When you're coming up against a body line,
what I would recommend doing is,
this is going to be your low spot,
the valley here, so you're going to work
into it this way, and then when we want to
work across this edge we want to get
the same results as the top half so
what we will do is work from this half up,
kind of breaking it down in sections
so you would have one flat panel,
it can also work against this edge here,
and then this would be another section
and then obviously two by two so that's
going to be another section.
But what I recommend doing is just ensuring
that you're not going over extreme body lines.
These are pretty mild but there's sharper
body lines where the paint is going to be thinner
so you obviously don't want to linger too long
on those edges because the paint is going to be
thinner there which has the potential to burn it,
especially if you're using a rotary
so if you're new to polishing a dual action
or a random orbital is the way to go,
but if you are using a rotary you just
want to ensure that you're not sitting
on edges for too long because they
create a lot of heat in one generalized area
very quickly and that can, again, harm the paint.
So now we're going to move on to down here
where you see this scuff that could have been
caused by, like I had said, maybe a shopping cart
or possibly a fender or somebody else's bumper.
And I'm just going to show you the same process
of removing it, using now this new technique
where we're coming up from the bottom
rather than working down and we're going to
use that same cross-hatching pattern if we can,
covering about 50 percent of our last pass.
This way we're getting the same
uniform shine over the entire door.
(upbeat music)
And there you have it guys, the scratches
have been virtually removed using the
one step polish and it's very easy to do
so a lot of you guys who are beginners
or maybe even if you're seasoned in
polishing and detailing, very simple to do
to get your car looking its best.
And as you saw here we taped off the trim
because, again, we're working a small area.
If you wanted to you could switch
down onto a three inch backing plate
and a three inch pad, but five inch is fine,
especially on a bigger car like this,
a lot of American cars have a lot of flat panels
so it's really easy to work around
just as long as you're precautious by
taping off any kind of texturized plastic
or rubber trim that could stain very easily.
So I'll take this off and give it one last wipe down
and then we're going to protect it.
Now you guys can use a ceramic coating,
you can do a combination of glazed seal or waxes,
but the owner of this loves butter wet wax
so what we're going to do is add a layer of JetSeal
and then finish off with butter wet wax
to enhance the shine as well as
give the same protection around the rest of the vehicle.
But in the meantime, you guys can check out
these products on our website,
chemicalguys.com, or at your local detail garage.
If you liked today's video be sure to
give it a thumbs up, drop your comments
down below for future videos,
and we'll see you next time.
(upbeat music)