Narrator: This is Kenji.
He's using a centuries-old technique
to dye silk for a kimono.
It's physically demanding,
but that's not the only challenge.
He has to match this color exactly,
making adjustments by eye.
And it's essential
that the fabric inside this barrel remains white.
Kenji won't know if he's successful until he opens the lid.
This is one of over 20 steps required to make a kimono.
You can buy a cotton kimono for $300.
But a handmade Chiso kimono
can cost over $10,000.
And the company's most expensive kimonos
cost 10 times that.
We followed 10 artisans, step-by-step,
to find out what makes these kimonos so expensive.
Versions of the kimono have been worn for centuries.
Today, the kimono is viewed as formal wear,
worn on special occasions like weddings
or coming-of-age ceremonies.
Part of the reason why Chiso's kimonos are so expensive
is that they're made entirely out of silk.
It takes around 12 meters of silk
to make a single kimono.
Chiso collaborates with a network
of highly skilled artisans;
each step is done by hand
and can take weeks to complete.
This intricate design starts out as a simple sketch.
Narrator: Once the design is ready,
Hiroshi transfers it to the silk.
This step is called drafting,
and it can take up to two weeks.
Hiroshi ensures that the design looks good
when the kimono is worn,
not just on a flat surface.
These lines are critical to the design process,
but you won't see them on the finished kimono.
This paint is washed away
after acting as a guide for other artisans.
Hiroshi has 37 years of experience,
but he's still very critical of his work.
Narrator: Chiso's kimonos are known for
their complex patterns,
painted using a technique called yūzen.
Artisans trace the design with a glue-like paste
that separates colors when the silk is painted.
It also gives a characteristic white outline
to parts of the design.
Narrator: It's patient work, but Ai says
it's all worth it when she sees the finished kimono.
Narrator: This is just the start of a monthslong process.
Pieces of the kimono are sent off
to different artisans across Kyoto.
Each artisan must perfect their section
while keeping in mind the final design.
At Yoko's workshop, she dyes the base of the kimono
with these large brushes.
Narrator: Yoko and her assistant blend the edges,
working around the design.
But this isn't the only way kimonos are dyed.
Some are dyed using a technique called shibori,
which creates bold colors and distinct shapes.
But it's very tedious work.
Before Kenji starts working,
artisans sew up the silk and bind this barrel.
Narrator: The seam Hiromi is sewing
forms the edge of the design.
Then Matsuyama wraps the silk along this wooden tub
and tacks it into place before he attaches the lid.
This step is key to preventing dye from bleeding inside.
Now it's time for Kenji to dip the silk.
He works quickly but constantly monitors the silk
to ensure it's dyed correctly.
If the barrel remains in the dye for too long,
the colors will start to bleed.
Kenji cuts a strip of fabric,
compares it to the swatch,
and adjusts his dye accordingly.
Narrator: After the dyeing is complete,
Kenji lifts the lid and examines his work.
All of these steps combine to tell a story
through the design of the kimono.
Themes of nature or the seasons are common,
while some designs reference poems or plays.
One of the most skilled and delicate steps
is the yūzen dyeing.
Tomoko has 25 years of experience making kimonos.
Narrator: Yūzen dyeing has been practiced for centuries
and has become an iconic feature of high-end kimonos.
The technique is more expensive
and time-consuming than screen printing,
but Chiso's customers are willing
to pay a premium for the result.
Long-sleeved kimonos with complicated designs
can take two to three weeks to paint.
Narrator: The final step in the process
is for artisans to apply gold leaf
and embroider complex designs.
Embroidery alone can take weeks to months,
depending on the design.
The more embroidery a kimono has,
the more expensive it will be.
When all the pieces fall into place,
the finished kimono is a work of art —
a testament to the skill of each artisan
who has worked on the silk.
Narrator: Chiso's kimonos take six to 12 months to make,
and those hundreds of hours of labor
are reflected in the price.
Most range from $7,000 to $14,000.
But some of Chiso's elaborate designs
cost over $100,000.
And the accessories traditionally worn with a kimono
increase the price even more.
Narrator: Customers looking for less expensive kimonos
might choose to rent, or to buy refurbished ones,
which usually cost a few hundred dollars
but still provide good quality.
Buying a cotton kimono or one without complex yūzen
is much more affordable.
These kimonos are often worn for less formal events.
But current demand for expensive, complex kimonos is low.
Kimono sales declined dramatically
in the '90s during Japan's economic crash.
And the industry has continued to shrink.
Today, it's around 14% of the size it was in 1975.
Chiso sells around 4,000 kimonos each year,
but the relevance of the garment in modern life is limited.
Narrator: Further complicating matters,
the artisans it relies upon to maintain production
are getting older.
Narrator: The future of this centuries-old
clothing tradition depends on the skill
of the artisans who practice it.