Hello John Talley here with Partzilla.com and welcome back to our
Raptor 700 build. Today we're gonna be focused on putting the head together for
our 2017 Raptor 700 R. Gonna work on lapping in the valves, getting those
installed, getting everything-- the springs and the keepers and everything put
together so we can continue on our engine build. Now if you need help
gathering up the parts for your build, why don't you check the link in the
description below and that will give you the exact
shopping list for this particular engine. Now if yours is a little bit different,
if you would visit our website at Partzilla.com, it's really easy to use.
Start off by picking the manufacturer, and then drill down to whatever part or
list of parts that you need for your machine. If you're still having trouble,
then give us a call. That's what we're here for and we can guide you to the
correct parts for your application. So now that you've got your parts together,
let's talk about the special tools that we're gonna need to pull this off. It's a
fairly short list. You are going to need to pick up a good bearing driver set, as
well as a valve spring compressor. Other two small items: need to pick up some
valve lapping compound as well as a valve lapping holder which actually goes
to the end of the valve and we can spin it back and forth. So now that you've got
your parts together and your special tools, let's go over there and get that
thing put together. Let's roll.
Alright, step number one. Even though this is a brand new head, we need to make sure
it's clean. So let's get some parts cleaner and spray it off and make sure
she's good to go. And I'm gonna go in, make sure the seats are clean, wipe it
out as much as possible. Because even though mine is brand new, there's still a
fair amount of debris left in it from its manufacturing process, and I don't
want that flying around the engine when we start it.
I mean Yamaha does a good job getting it cleaned up and sealed up but that's just
one extra step that doesn't take that long. This was a clean rag when I started.
We'll concentrate on the other parts later. Right now I just want to deal with
the valves, so let's start off by marking where the valves are gonna end up in the
head. We're just going to be one, two-- and this is one, two. Let's go ahead and get
some blue dye onto the face of the valve so we can see what the contact area is
with the head. And we're just gonna put a thin layer around the face of the valve
right here. So when you're doing this, what you're looking for is a stripe
roughly one-third the width of the valve. Maybe a little bit less. It'll end up
being in between one and one point two millimeters and I'll show you that later.
Before we actually put the valve in there, let's put a little bit of assembly
lube just on the stem because I don't want to score up anything with our
brand-new parts. Just a few turns back and forth, and that is actually looking
pretty good. It's got a little edge on the top and the bottom and then a nice
contact area there in the middle. It looks even all the way around on the
valve seat, and honestly that's what I expected. I mean it's a brand new factory
part from Yamaha, this is the way it's gonna look, this way it's supposed to
look. So this actually looks fantastic. What I
expected. But I'm still gonna lap it in but what is going to change is which
lapping compound that I'm going to use. When you go to pick out your valve
lapping compound-- typically you can get that at most any auto parts store-- you
want to take note of the grit or the coarseness of each one, because you can
get different values. I happen to have a range from 220 up to 600 for a new build
like this. The 600 will do fine. For one that needs a little bit more help? The
320. If it's severely pitted? You can drop it down to the 220. So when you're
doing this, make sure that you don't get any of the lapping material on the stem
of the valve. Gonna be critical as we don't want any of that to stay in the engine.
So we're gonna put a very light layer, kind of like we did with the Prussian
blue, around the face of the valve. Now here's where you want to listen. It's
gonna start out with a lot of sand sound to it. And as you go back and forth that
sounds going to decrease. So at that point, you lift up a little bit let it
draw in more the lapping compound, and then do it again. Now I'm not pushing
hard, just enough for the suction cup to stay on the the valve. One more time. See
how much quicker that it did toward the end as far as when it was really making that
grinding sound to when it stopped? That tells me that we're pretty much there.
Alright, pop that out, get your valve cleaned off. You can look on the face of
the valve. See that line right there in the middle? That's what we just did by
lapping it in. Created that area that perfectly matches what's inside the head.
Now that we've got the valve cleaned up, we need to get the head surface cleaned
up as well. Looking good, let's go on to the next one.
Alright onto the intake side. So we've got her cleaned up, the valves are lapped.
I want to check one more thing, our actual seat width, or that contact point,
needs to be in between one and one point two millimeters, not to exceed one point
six. And I'd say we are dead on one millimeter or close to it. That's the
best my eyes can see. Let's start installing the valves. First thing we
need to do is go ahead and lay in our valve spring seats. And then we're gonna
put in the valve seals. You should be able to just push these down with your
finger and you can kind of feel them lock in. They do not go all the way down
to the the seat itself. So don't be expecting it to go that far.
Alright let me go get the valve spring compressor, then we'll start getting
those valves in. I find it easier just put it in a clamp or in this case the
vise. And we're gonna start out with intake number one. We're gonna put a
little bit more lube on it. Make sure it goes into intake one that I marked. Now
before I carry it up there, let's go over this real quick. Your valve springs, these
are marked with paint that show, you know, which way is up. But if not, see how
the spacing changes as it gets to the top when it's really tightly wound?
That's the part that you want going down to the bottom, and then of course as it
expands or it gets a larger distance, that's what you want facing up. So let's
pop that in place. Go ahead and get our collar, then our keepers. Now the other
little trick that I do is I put just a little dab of grease on the keepers. That
helps kind of hold it to the stem as I work them into position. That, when I'm
bringing them in there actually sticks to the end of the screwdriver. Makes life
a little bit easier. This can be tedious.
There's one. Now before you go on to the next one, we just want to get a soft
mallet if you will, and just pop it a couple of times to get those keepers to
seat in. Don't have to hit it hard, just enough to shake it down. That one looks
good to go, let's go on to the next.
Feel like a dentist when I'm doing this. Open wide.
How's the family doing? Good, good. Two down, two to go.
So we've got our valves in. Let's start working on the camshaft bearing, the
camshaft, and then our rocker arms. Alright with the bearing, we want the sealed side
facing toward the camshaft. So we want this part to go in first. Before we pop
it in there, let's go ahead and oil the bearings. Looks like it's a fair amount
of grease in there, but we're gonna add to it just to make sure. We've got it
down in place, and we're gonna drive this all the way down so there's a zero
clearance with the head so it goes all the way to the bottom. Make sure that you
get her in there square. Yeah, she's down.
Next let's go ahead and get our camshaft installed. Go ahead and add a little oil
to that decompression mechanism on the inside as well as that pin out here. Then we
can go ahead and put some oil directly into the the bearing. Tell you what, while
we're here let's go ahead and put some break in engine lube on our lobes.
Alright now we can go and get our camshaft in. The orientation, you want to lower it
down or with these little two sections kind of facing up. Be careful doing this,
try not to knock your lobes.
Next let's get the intake rocker arm in there. What I'm using is just a fairly
long six millimeter bolt to thread into it, into the rocker arm shaft. And we're
going to tap it to get it started in there, we're gonna stop while there's still
enough room to get our rocker arm lined up. She is right at the edge. I'm gonna
put a little bit of a assembly lube, spread it around the inside of the
rocker. Alright, so slide our rocker arm in there.
Best thing I can tell you to do here is just eyeball it as good as you can and
tap gently in case it's not lined up. Got it. That is it. Doing the same thing, just
to the other side. Now let's get a retaining bracket in. It actually holds
in the bearing as well as the rocker arm shafts. A way to do that, bring it in from
where the chain-- timing chain is going to be located, lift up on the cam shaft just
a tick. And then it'll slide in and then rotate around just like that. The real
trick is when you're doing that just lift up on the cam shaft maybe an eighth
of an inch is all it takes. Now let's get the retention bolts in. Generally
speaking, especially if it's on the inside of the engine, I'm going to use a
little bit of Loctite. Let's go and get them in place.
Let's get those guys torqued down. Anybody want to guess? If you said 7.2 you'd be
correct. So she's almost ready to go. The cam is actually sitting and I think it's
going to be the split overlap. I'm gonna go ahead and put the adjusters and the
the pinch bolts on there but they're gonna be completely retracted at the top
because I'm not gonna actually set the valve lash. If you've got your head off
your machine and you want to go ahead and set it now? Yeah there's nothing
wrong with that, but I want to be able to show you how to do it with the engine
complete, bringing it around a top dead center. We're also going to be doing a
video that specifically addresses setting the valve lash on this engine
start to finish. All right guys, that pretty much wraps this one up. Listen, if
you need any parts for your machine, particularly this exact one, there's a
link in the description below that will carry you to a shopping cart that has
every single part that we use to build this up. If your machines a little bit
different, why don't you check out our website at Partzilla.com. It's really easy to use
menu where you can drill down and get to whatever part that you may need for your
machine. And if you're still having a little bit of trouble, give us a call on our
1-800 number. We're here to help you out. Listen we just want to say thank you for
shopping here with us at partzilla.com, and if you have any questions or
comments? Leave them in the section below and I'll do my best to answer them.
Once again we just want to say thank you and we will see you in the next video.
Have a great day.