Narrator: Just one 2.5-kilogram durian
from Nonthaburi, Thailand, can cost $380.
Yet the fruit has a smell
that some people find extremely unpleasant.
In fact, durian is banned
in several airports and hotels around the world.
But in Asia and the Pacific Islands,
durian is known as the "King of Fruit."
In 2019, one Nonthaburi durian
sold at auction for $48,000.
So, what draws people to this pungent, spiky fruit?
And why is it so expensive?
Thailand is expected to harvest
almost 1 million metric tons of durian in 2021.
Durian is native to several tropical climates
around the world, including Thailand.
Thailand alone grows over 300 varieties,
but the most expensive durians
are grown in Nonthaburi Province.
They're known as Nont durian.
Nont makes up the highest grade of durian in Thailand
and is often given as a token of respect.
But even among Nont durians, two varieties stand out:
the most expensive, Kan Yao durian,
and the slightly more affordable Mon Thong durian.
Narrator: Nont durian is described as having
refined and sweet pulp
with a mild fragrance and creamy texture,
whereas other lesser-grade durians
are said to have a stronger smell and a watery texture.
Nont durian has a distinct taste and smell
for two main reasons: Nonthaburi's environment
and the growing practices of its farmers.
Nonthaburi Province has been a center for durian farming
in Thailand for over 300 years.
Farmers in this region have been honing their technique
for generations, using their resources and skill
to grow the highest-quality durians possible.
One of the resources they depend on
is the Chao Phraya River,
which flows through Nonthaburi
and fertilizes the soil.
Narrator: But the river water isn't used
to water the durian trees themselves.
Farmers in Nonthaburi prefer to buy fresh water,
which they believe improves the final quality of the durian.
Narrator: After planting, it takes about six years
for a healthy durian tree to bear fruit.
Once the trees start to flower,
farmers count the days until the fruits are ripe.
Depending on the breed,
this can span 90 to 150 days.
But it's not only the time and labor
that make Nont durian so pricey.
The costs to provide this kind of care add up.
Just the water costs about $2,200 per year.
Narrator: Farmers have to constantly check the trees
and look for any infections or insects,
and they wrap each durian in plastic to protect it.
They must harvest the durians one by one,
when each fruit is perfectly ripe.
Narrator: These time-consuming
and labor-intensive techniques have a major impact
on the flavor and final value of Nont durian.
A 2.5-kilogram Mon Thong durian
from Apiranya Farm can cost over $100.
That's about a third of the price of Kan Yao,
making it a more popular
and affordable option for customers.
Narrator: Kan Yao, on the other hand,
is the most expensive Nont durian you can buy.
Depending on its size,
Kan Yao durians from Apiranya Farm
can range from about $380 to $530 per fruit.
But despite Kan Yao's steep price,
demand for this variety is growing.
And supply can't keep up.
Narrator: One of the main challenges
is the climate crisis.
Narrator: The tropical climate required
to grow durian also makes the farms susceptible
to floods, storms, and other extreme weather.
In 1995 and 2011, floods destroyed
almost all of the durian trees in Nonthaburi.
In 2011, about 1,100 acres of durian trees were leveled,
and only 17 acres survived.
After this, Benjamat had to start the six-year process over.
Narrator: The global market for durian
is expected to reach over $28 billion by 2025.
And that means Apiranya and other Nonthaburi farms
will likely continue selling out of Nont durian
in the years to come.