In this video, we’ll show you how to adjust and service Shimano SPD pedals,
as well as SPD-compatible designs.
Calvin Jones here, Park Tool Company.
Before we even talk about pedals, let's talk about where the drive train really begins:
It's at the shoe.
The shoe is where your body meets the bike.
Now, your Park Tool socks, we can exclude them,
but the shoe and the pedal should be considered a unit.
We could do a whole video on this, we won't get into that,
but at least make sure those cleat bolts are tight.
Good!
Now, on to the pedals.
Pedal service should be considered a routine maintenance procedure.
The first thing to check is the tightness of the fasteners on the pedal body.
Also check the bearings. Begin by giving them a spin.
They should feel relatively smooth.
Finally, check the play between the pedal body and axle.
A little play is common, but this amount of play needs adjustment.
Not all pedals ares serviceable - sometimes it's best to just replace them if worn.
However, if the manufacturer has made considerations for bearing maintenance,
it can be worth attempting service.
Typical tools for SPD pedal service include:
Appropriate wrenches including hex wrenches and open-ended wrenches,
a vise and axle vise insert,
The Shimano TL-PD40 and a wrench to turn it with,
grease and rags.
Regardless of design, all SPD pedals are serviced the same way.
It's best to service one pedal at a time -
the bearing units are different, the pedal bodies are different,
but it's very easy to confuse the two sides when they're disassembled, and that will ruin your day.
Removal requires the proprietary tool the Shimano TL-PD40, available from Shimano.
Thread direction for the bearing unit is imprinted on the unit itself.
Note that it is the opposite of the pedal thread direction.
This bearing unit is a left hand thread, while the pedal axle is a right hand thread.
Hold the pedal firmly but gently, such as in a repair stand clamp.
Install the tool and turn it with a wrench.
The TL-PD40 has 36mm wrench flats, which is the same as some bottom bracket tools,
such as the HCW-4.
As you remove the unit, you will encounter some resistance
as the bearing undresses itself from the pedal body.
Now that it's out, let's look at how the bearing system works.
We've taken this all apart so you can see what's going on.
This is much like a hub system, with a hub shell being this piece here,
there's our cup surface like a hub - that piece would be this piece -
we have a cone and a locknut and loose ball bearings.
Just like a hub, we're able to make adjustments to the cone through the locknut
to take play out of our system.
Now, we don't need to take it apart to this level, because we can flush it and clean it
and get fresh grease in there, and then do our adjustments,
without taking it all the way apart.
So the next step is actually to check for play here, and then we'll see how to take that out
and then how to pack it with grease.
If the unit is dirty, It can be cleaned by scrubbing with solvent
and blowing dry with an air compressor.
Wipe out the pedal body using a rag or cotton swab.
Continue until it's clean.
The bearing play in the pedal can be adjusted using the locknut and cone.
Hold the pedal axle secure in some soft jaws like the AV-5.
Tighten it down securely.
Grab the shell and check for play.
Here, there's a slight bit of motion -
but with a wide pedal, it's really going to be exaggerated.
So this would really be unacceptable play on the outside perimeter felt at the pedal.
So we need to bring the cone down slightly.
You want a thin 10 millimeter wrench - The locknut is a 7 millimeter.
Hold the lower cone steady, break free the locknut.
Clockwise a little bit, we're coming down with the cone.
Hold and re-secure.
Snug about 4 to 5 Newton meters here and check again -
very, very subtle play.
Possibly one more adjustment.
Break free the locknut, slightly clockwise,
hold and secure.
Play is gone.
It turns smoothly with no play.
It does sound dry... greasing is next.
It doesn't take much grease - certainly less than, say, a half inch or 12 millimeters at the bottom.
Installing the shaft into the pedal body will force the grease up the middle of the bearing unit,
and into the bearings and races.
Installation is simply the reverse of the removal process.
Thread the bearing unit into the pedal body and tighten until snug.
Wipe away any grease that was forced out of the pedal body.
Repeat the process on the other pedal.
Thanks for watching this repair help video from Park Tool.
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