In my previous video I used a picture of Luke's door
to generate the layout which I then transferred onto this piece of wood.
So, I lined up my cut-out pieces
back on this paper template.
And I need to make some slight adjustments to this joint.
So, these line up quite nicely and this joint is all flush.
And before I go any further I'm gonna flatten 1 side on the jointer.
And now I'm cutting a slot into the end of each piece.
And I'm making some splines to go into those slots.
So, I'm gonna join these pieces with a piece
of hardwood spline that I just cut out.
And that will put them together and I still get to use my
straight table saw cut.
And the reason I put this spline so far off center
is when I cut the molding shape into this
I want this to be far enough down so when I cut this shape
I'm not gonna cut into the splines.
Just glued and clamped this together. It was a little bit tricky
because I had to clamp some pieces of scrap on there.
Just to get a place to hook the clamp onto.
If I'd had more foresight I would have left the tabs sticking out of these
wooden parts when I cut them out on the band saw.
So, the next thing I did is to make that inside curve a nice smooth curve.
'Cause that's my reference surface.
And then pass it through a thickness planner a few times
to get it all down to the right thickness.
So, this is the existing molding that I need to match.
Now you can get fancy router bits that cut a molding in one pass
like this one here for example.
But I don't know anywhere where I can get a
router bit that actually matches this molding.
So, I'm gonna cut that as several passes using some smaller bits.
So, this little cove here
I can cut with this bit like so.
Or like so.
This round-over here I can cut with a round-over bit.
Like so.
And then this deeper cove here
I can cut out with this bit.
And then finally we have another convex
round-over and I can use that same round-over bit
to approximate that.
Now, with most of my cuts at a 45 degree angle
I rigged up a temporary hook-up for my dust extractor.
So, I just jury-rigged this onto here and that goes off to my dust extractor.
Then I cut the molding on the curved work piece.
I'm gonna need a curved fence. So, I've glued together a few pieces of scrap.
And, where this arrow is
if I follow along here even though the inside of the curves
the arrow is always gonna be touching the wood.
So, that'll allow me to guide this piece around
following the curves.
So, I'm gonna start by cutting this bead on here.
And I've got my original piece here
and my round-over bit lined up to cut that.
And here's my round fence and the featherboard on the other side.
Just to make sure that piece stays pressed on there.
Well, the test pieces look ok.
So, let's try the real work piece.
So far so good.
And now I've got a cove bit in here to cut
this inside curve.
It's not exact but it matches it pretty close.
Well, this is starting to look surprisingly like molding.
So, finally setting up for cutting this last round-over.
Now, unfortunately this bit doesn't match it very well.
It's a bit too large or round.
I've got another bit with a smaller round.
But this one is smaller than the original molding.
So, I'm gonna cut it a little bit large and that will leave a slight corner
that I'll have to sand off there but I think that'll make a pretty good match.
And just a quick check. Yeah, that's good.
Well, looking ok. I just need to do a little bit of sanding.
Clean all that stuff up.
So now after the sanding looks pretty decent.
And here is the molding I made.
And here's the original.
It's fairly close. The bead here is a little bit larger.
So, I gave the trim to Luke and he installed it on his door.
He said it fit just perfectly.