- [Jeff] Well hello, my fellow DIY friends.
Take a look at this.
What we have here today is a P-trap under a sink
that you're trying to connect to the waste line going out
to the street, but the problem is that the waste line
is way off to the left.
So, how are you gonna get this P-trap lined up in there?
Well, you're not, that's the problem.
So, today we're going to show you how to
deal with this situation.
♪ It's alright ♪
♪ Too good to be true ♪
♪ And it's alright ♪
Normally, what happens when you're dealing with a sink
and a P-trap is you typically have your waste line
coming straight out of the wall
directly behind the drain here.
But what happens a lot when you remodel is you end up
with a different vanity, different sink and sometimes
the difference in the horizontal distance can change
between where you once were.
The sink was over here, the older sink was directly
in front of the drain line here.
Now it's not.
Now it's almost a full foot over and the problem is
is when I put this P-trap back on here, see?
You're limited to the horizontal reach of your P-trap.
Let's say the drain line came out four or five inches over
to the left, then we'd be fine.
But the problem is you're limited by the reach
of your P-trap and even at a Home Depot and Lowe's
they don't have any longer P-traps than this
that are more horizontal.
What you have to do now is you have to come up
with some fittings that we can put here
that will make that 45 degree angle for you.
Now, the problem here is the builder left us a very, very
short stub out coming out of the wall there of PVC pipe,
so it's not like we could just slice through the PVC pipe
and throw another trap adapter on there.
That's a one and a half inch to one and a quarter inch
trap adapter there.
What we have to try to do is make a few slices into the body
of this thing and try to break them off the pipe,
and if that doesn't work, because our goal is to get
this piece off of the pipe
and put a 45 degree fitting on there first.
See, we wanna have a piece like this on there,
onto the waste pipe.
If we can't get this cemented on the outside,
then I have a plan of what to do here
and let me show you what we're going to--
Assuming that we end up having to use this piece, we wanna
make the length of the pipe knowing that this is gonna slide
inside of it and it's gonna go all the way in like that.
I've marked a line here, which represents
a little bit past the point where it ends inside.
Okay, and this is the only length of piece
that we'll really need
because what's going to happen is that this 45 piece here
will then cement on the outside of this side.
So, this slip piece here covers the inside of the pipe
and this one here cements onto the outside
of the other end of that pipe section.
This is where we're going to cut it.
We're going to use my little PVC pipe saw here,
which is a string.
I know most of you think of saws as being a blade,
but in this case, this saw is a little metal cable.
Now, on this side of the pipe here,
we put our 45 degree part on there.
We have to figure out how much length we need for it
to plug on there and then for the trap adapter here
to go onto the other end of that piece right there.
So, it'll go pretty much right there.
All we need is about an inch in between
just to be able to play around with there.
Alright, here's my idea.
Assume this is the drain pipe coming out of the wall,
the one and a half inch PVC pipe from the builder.
What I have here is this is a one and a half inch,
this is a flush inside coupling.
This will cement inside the pipe.
Put this in like that, so he'll go all the way in, okay.
Then we'll need to get another piece here
to go on this side.
So, there's your extension.
This is the builder's pipe coming out of the wall,
this is my slip piece, there's just my little
extension there and then this 45 degree piece
will go there on the outside.
He'll cement on the outside of that pipe.
So, that's what I've done now up to this point.
Now, we'll have a 45 degree angle coming out of the wall,
which is what we're after.
Then, we have to take this other little piece of PVC pipe
and again that 45 degree elbow there
will cement onto that piece.
And then lastly, I can take my new trap adapter here.
This converts one and a half inch pipe
to one and a quarter inch, which is what you need
in bathroom vanities.
Most of the piping coming out of the drains of the vanities
and the P-traps are one and a quarter inch.
So then, we'll cement this on here.
That's what it will look like underneath the sink.
Not the most prettiest thing in the world, but that's what
enables you to get what you need done.
This is what we'll have to do if we can't get this piece
here to go directly onto the outside of the builder's pipe.
This is my goal is just a short little two piece solution.
So, if this solution doesn't work, we have to go to the one
that I just showed you.
Okay, here you can see were in luck.
I was able to pry that trap adapter off the waste pipe there
by making a few slits in it with my Dremel tool here
and I just pried it off with the pliers,
so we were able to get it off.
So, now we don't have to make that big contraption.
All I have to do is cement this 45 degree angle piece
right on there.
Okay, I've dry fitted the 45 degree elbow on there
and I think this is going to work out nice for us.
I got my little piece of pipe that I'm gonna dry fit
in there, just see how it looks.
He'll go there.
Trap adapter will then go on here and you just wanna make
sure that when you do this, you see how this whole thing
can twist and go down like that and it can go up like that?
You wanna make sure it's probably level, maybe even
if you wanna go slightly declined, that might work, too,
but I'm just gonna try to keep it level for now.
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Okay and lastly, here is the P-trap in place and you can see
once this guy is twisted more facing this way,
he'll go straight into there.
So, it looks like we have a winning combination right here.
Okay, so here it is all still dry fitted and everything,
but I wanted to just review what we have here now.
Back in the back wall, you have the one and a half inch pipe
coming out of the wall from the builder.
We stuck on that 45 degree elbow to change the direction
of it and send everything this way
aiming right towards the downspout.
Then, after the 45 degree piece, we have the PVC pipe there,
so that we can put this trap adapter onto it.
That trap adapter reduces it from one and a half inches
down to one and a quarter inch that you need for a vanity.
And then this whole part right here is just the P-trap.
It's a little kit that you buy.
It's a couple of bucks for the P-trap.
And then this piece here is actually a six inch extension.
So, anytime you buy a new drain, new sink or whatever,
always go and buy a six, nine or 12 inch extension
because you'll always end up having to use it.
If you just buy this P-trap and you can see right here
where it would fit normally up on the pipe here.
That's not gonna give you enough down distance there,
vertical distance.
So, what you need to do is you have to get an extension
and you cut the extension.
You cut it to length such that it fits right
at the bottom here.
That's where it fits in that cutout there.
That's where it ends.
It terminates right there.
So, you have to cut that distance such that when you slide
the P-trap up against it, it will be there and perfectly
level to go straight into the center of that pipe.
So, it takes a while to figure it out and what sort
of distances you need, but that's why you do all of this
when it's a dry fit.
Don't cement in one single piece in the back there
until you've got all of this done.
This is what your solution is going to look like here.
Alright, so I brought all my action outside here
for a minute because I wanna cement my three fittings
together here to minimize the amount of cement and possible
spillage that I have under the sink because I will
when it's all done, I will have to cement this
onto that pipe that comes out of the wall.
But I always try to put all my parts together out here
where it's easy to do it.
What we do is we use this purple primer first
and you must use the primer on here.
It's against plumbing code
in probably just about every city.
I can't tell you how many idiots I see that just go right
for the cement and cement it without priming it.
You have to put the primer in there, you have to.
The inspectors will fail you if they don't see that little
purple ring around the pipe when they come in
to inspect your work.
Okay, anyway, if you don't put that purple primer on,
these will separate and I can tell you firsthand.
A friend of mine had an air conditioning line inside
their wall six months ago leaked for God knows how long
because whoever originally put it together didn't use primer
and they had mold all over their house, tens of thousands
of dollars of damage and the insurance company
is fighting them on half of the stuff.
So, that's the nightmare you have to look forward to
when you don't take five seconds to take this purple stuff
and brush it on your pipes.
I'm warning you now, this is your one and only warning
that you're getting about this.
And I'm harping on the point because it is so important
and I'm begging you folks, please do not be that guy
that does not put the primer on there.
Alright, I just gave the parts a coating
and it doesn't take a whole lot either.
Try to be neat about it, just wherever the two parts join.
Here, you do the inside of the trap adapter here
and you do the inside of the...
We gotta add a little more right there.
See that?
You just want an even coating.
And then, you do the other inside of the other side
of the elbow and then both ends of the pipe
where it's gonna get connected to both other pieces here.
You notice how it's nice and clean.
All you need to do is give it the width of the swab around,
pretty much because you only need to cover
where the two parts go in and touch and connect.
You don't need to go hog wild
and you don't need to make a huge drippy mess.
It just bugs the heck out of me when I come in
to do some work after a plumber has been in there
and they got stuff just dripping down the pipes.
I'm like, come on, really?
And here is our final product of the three parts
that are connected together here.
They're all cemented now.
Now, when I cement, I'll coat both sides of the inside
of this guy and the outside of the pipe
with the rubber cement there.
Just pick it up here and you rub it
all the way around real quick.
You have about 10 seconds, alright.
You do that real quick.
Insert the piece in there, turn it a quarter of a turn
and hold both of them together in place for 30 seconds.
You don't wanna let go or anything
because it can force it back out and loosen the joint.
Now, we had a professional plumber that was doing some work
on a job site we were on last year
and the guy didn't do that and he ended up
getting called back the next day to come
and repair his fitting that he made because it didn't hold.
It was leaking right there because he didn't put it in,
twist it and hold.
Okay, I always use my channel locks to tighten these
back up because these things have a nasty reputation
of tipping over and they leak.
Then, I always like to store them back
in their little pouch here.
I prefer to keep them in a plastic bin
away from everything else.
Alright, so there it is all cemented up
and everything's hooked up and tightened
and at the right angle and everything.
Now, we're gonna do a water test and I always like
to lay down paper towels underneath
because that will show you instantly
if there's any drops of water.
There should be zero, not one drop.
(water gurgling)
Okay, the water's been running a few minutes now.
I usually like to run it for about 10 minutes
because sometimes it can take a while.
You might have a leak that's very, very, very, very slight
and it might take a while for it to rear its ugly head
because remember the water's continuously streaming
through this whole P-trap there.
Then afterwards, we're gonna do an overflow test
where we'll run the level of the water up
and let it go down this path here.
You have to make sure you test that path down the drain
as well because sometimes that kind of stuff
affects what happens here under your gasket.
You wanna make sure your gasket is not dripping.
That's a common source of a drip right there for people.
So, if you have a problem with your gasket dripping,
take a look down in the description below.
I'll put a link to my other video where we show you how
to solve that particular issue when you're installing
this drain pipe, how to put the Teflon tape on the threads
up above there and then whether or not
you need to put any kind of sealant here.
These black gaskets here, these are rubber.
They pretty much don't recommend you using putty.
You should only use plumber's putty if you really, really
can't stop the leak because the putty has oils in it,
which they say will dry and crack this rubber over time.
Silicone would be better, to use a tube of silicone
and just mash some on there before you put the gasket on.
But right now, we don't have any problems.
The gasket's fitting nicely there.
That's it, folks.
That's how you do it and if you found this video useful,
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