hi I'm here with Mitch on the side of the camera and this is my shop welcome
our project today is a fillet brazed ICR stem ICR stands for internal cable routing
here's a couple of all these I started making stems back in 86 when I started 40 bikes this
one has I see I you can see where the cable goes in you come out so that's what we'll
be making today these are the pieces it's chrome moly we've got an extension - this
is too long we've got a clamp - and a quill tube these are the two sizes
of the quill - this is four inch headset this is for an inch and an eighth headset
so we're gonna use the smaller one for an inch headset old style that's the project for today
so that's where that's like when it's mitered so throughout
the belt sander needs to take off the birds sand it up a little bit
so the stem we're making today is a 7/8 quill so we're gonna use this 130 millimeters long
and the rise is 20 degrees so I'm gonna use I take the clamp to by put it on the 130 put the
extension tube on there and then I can make a mark right here on the center line I'm marking with a
center line of the quill tube is that's that's my hacksaw cut right there and can you see here how
I took a regular clamp like you get from Home Depot or whatever and i weld it on this little
v block there because the V block goes onto the tube holds it very well then I can put a little
bit of tension on there what I'm looking for here is the right spacing I want equal spacing
on either side and when I've got that a little thick walled there a little tick well did just
about that long maybe five eighths of an inch then after that everything is fill it braised
all right the stem goes like that so we need to oval eyes this way it's easy to get mixed
up sometimes when you're over lysing so we're gonna oval eyes this way so this is gonna go
like that squeezing this way that's how far we want to come down you can see it's quite
a gap it comes down quite a bit I screwed up I didn't have the blocks in the right place well
I didn't have the RAM in the right place and the blocks exerted some force on the tube and
you can see how I screwed up the tube I made a mistake so I have to find some more tubing and
start over again this is this is the second piece here okay I got my oval ization it's all smooth I
did not indent the tube so what happened was I had it it too far this way I needed to have it
more that way so I'm putting force on the end of the tube and not force all along the tube you're
not careful easy to make mistakes I have a little piece of cold-rolled here it's a 3/8 OD we got to
drill some holes in it because it's gonna get a to have it too then after I drill the holes
I put in the tube and it gets nickel silver tin there so off to the lathe I have three different
drills to use so I use the small one it goes all the way through because that's what the
cable runs through and then on the end I've got a 3/16 drill because that's the two that
gets inserted and then on the other side is the larger one that's where the brake cable goes in
here's the setup I've got this little holder here it pulls the cable stop and you can see
here how the tube fits in there so I put it up on top like that and there's I could
spin this around and I just need to put tiny little Phillip right in between here
and here so obviously the cable stop is larger than the tube so I'm putting most
my heat on the cable stop if you heat them both the same it'll make the tube overheat
what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna mark it where it needs to be meited because when I put that
like that and I know my angle of 20 degrees I'll put a mark right here see in line with
the front of the quill tube that's where I want them also to go so the whole saw is
gonna go right against that line there so I need to miter to be at a perpendicular angle
to the clamp tube so that's that's partly why this clamp tube gets welded onto the
extension to first because when I hold this in the vise here these vise jaws are going to hold
this perfectly in line with the perpendicular so I need to hold this now I need to put some
spaces in there I don't want to use anything hard so I got thinner lever I'll try that I
just need to hold it because if I hold it only here it'll vibrate yeah see that that's held
slowly coming together so that's basically the shape of the stem so I have to knock off
the birds now and I'm not gonna world the Sun right away because we have to work on
the cable routing now internal cable ready I'm using my template again my my piece of
cardboard so if I put this on like that and I line everything up then the holes
gonna go right there so this little trick how do you know where to mark this where
is the very top of the tube well I'm gonna show you that it was something I used to ask
my students I'd say in Frank building 101 and say how do you mark the top of the tube using
only a ruler there's no measuring no felt pen nothing and they would scratch the heads for
well occasionally wants to would figure it out but most of them I have to show them you take
the ruler you hold it level out of 45 you just pull and that is the top of the tube
I punch lightly and make sure it's where I want it to be and then I give it a bit
of a whack okay so it's punched right in the middle you go to the drill press
so I got a 3/16 tube so I'm going to go one size Lodge so this is basically how the internal cable
routing works this is the cable stop that's the cable stop that I'm going to use I just use this
to help me figure out where it goes and this one here has to be bent I got to get flux off I have
to bend it so this looks like it's it looks like it's pretty good so you're gonna go for that I'll
just make a couple marks you're gonna put your gonna make a slot so the slots gonna go on on
this side here because on your front brake use your left hand most people use their left hand
so the cable swings around and knocks in from the right if you have it on the left it's too
sharp of a bend it's not nice what this does is I have a tool that comes down that makes the slot
and and because the Kista tool is hitting this at an angle it wants to bend out it wants to flex the
tool even though the tool is fairly strong so this piece here it gets set at the right height
to hold the tool in line so you can see how the stem how the clamp two fits over this so what I
do is I mount this this piece of carbide it's a quarter inch rod basically I mount that into
the Chuck put the Chuck in there and then I've got a measurement here it's 2.5 inches I have
to move this over 2.5 inches and then and then I should be in the right position to make the slot
got the mandrill and then I take I made up this little piece here that holds left
like that and I just bring this around all that bends bends nicely because this comes
in at an angle like that it forces this off at an angle so I need to bend this a little
bit you look around here can you see how this is the holder in it you see how this
comes down it's like a little ramp going down so when I hold that there see how I
put a little kink in the tube like that it's not a kink it's just like a tiny little bend
can you see how that works now this is straight up and down and this comes out at an angle so
what I'm going to try and right now is to feed the tube in there is handy sometimes because you have
to put a little bit of force on it there we go so it's in there and if you look inside can you
see how the tube is coming straight out it's not coming out at an angle either way that's what you
want that's good cable routing I have to hold the quill tube onto the extension tube so I'm
going to use good old-fashioned masking tape so I'll do a little tic-tac little tic-tac and
then I'll do a little well down the side where the two tubes are the same size to the brain
I'm making the wells nice and flat I'm not lumping them up so it's easier for
the breeze to go still a little warm from the tick get some heat inside there so
okay Philip braising this is the rod it's a 3/32 bear bronze rod and then what I'm
gonna do is I put some rod on one side and then on the other it's a doing a little bit
like I say army golf left right that's right because as I put it on one side it allows the
other side to cool a little bit if you want to be successful there's basically
three things you have to consider the size of the cone and the distance of the cone from the
workpiece and the angle of the cone and it all depends on what you're doing which part of the
bicycle frame if you're working on a bicycle frame okay so it'll come full circle here
music Philip Briggs so basically what I want to do is to get a centering groove that tells
me where the center of the Philip Bray's is and then I want to work on the art and that's
when I start edging out I don't want to go on the steel much at all because the worst
thing you can do is to undercut the steel weaken the to have to be very careful with
so there's my centering groove it's smooth what I do now is - I call it edging out you
putting a little bit of sideways force on there and I'm blending it in with the two
so that's what I'm looking for a nice radius and it blends in with the tube so I've done
about well almost a quarter just have to finish it up I've got a quarter inch wide white belt
sander I made this a long time ago so I've saved myself about 400 bucks because if you buy the real
thing at 700 bucks this is how you change belts see this little spring there that's a worn out
belt the new belt over the top make sure they got the grid on the outside a little noisy but
it doesn't nice job what you need to do with this is to ease in and to ease out if you just
go back and forth you could end up having a ridge on the side so it's important to ease in ease out
so how this system works is is the spiral roll because it's pretty firm it makes the shape in
the belt sander because it's so flexible it follows the shape and it smooths it all out
that's what makes it beautiful we've done the spiral roll we've done the quarter inch
belt sander the last step is using Emery cloth I had a student in frame building
101 whose name was Mario he had a sense of humor he named this fine fingering so it's
stuck this is what gives it the final final smoothness okay we're heading into the last
stages now we have to put on the pinch lug cut slot and do the cutouts for the
bar pinch lug is a little bit of a lump of metal so I put little extra heat on there
okay it's going all around it's smooth
one slot okay so the last thing to do is to take a whole surah and to cut a
notch out of there because if you put in a set of curved handlebars you have to bring
the bar through and if the tube is too long you can't that won't work and you
don't really want to put a screwdriver and then pry that app up to get the bar
there we go all made it up a little bit of sanding so there we are one I see our stem it's Phillip
brazed hope you enjoyed watching this hope you learned something see you next time thank you