The ancient home of the Ephesians
is one of the world's greatest classical sites.
The west coast of what we now call Turkey
was once a cultural heartland
of ancient Greece.
Ephesus blossomed as a Greek city
in about the 4th century BC.
It was later consumed by the expanding Roman empire
and eventually became a major Roman city.
While the site is vast,
only about 15% of this Greco-Roman metropolis
has been excavated.
But as Rome fell, so did Ephesus.
Once a thriving seaport,
the city was sacked by barbarians.
Eventually its busy port silted up and it was abandoned.
1,000 years of silt left it stranded three miles inland
from the Aegean coast.
The library -- the third-largest
of the Roman empire,
is a highlight.
The facade is striking.
Statues of women celebrating the virtues
of learning and wisdom inspired the citizenry.
The city's main street is lined with buildings grand,
even in their ruined state.
This one, known as Hadrian's Temple,
was built in the second century.
Dedicated to Emperor Hadrian,
its decorations are full of symbolism.
To this day, archeologists debate just what it all means.
For extra guidance, we're joined by my friend
Lale Surmen Aran.
For years, Lale has led our bus tour groups around Turkey,
and for this itinerary she's joining us.
Huge city -- quarter of a million people.
This was one of the biggest metropolises
of the Roman period.
Now, we're in the downtown and the main street of the city,
but the city expanded beyond this main street on both sides.
RICK: So, way up to the mountain, actually?
LALE: On both directions, way up to the mountains,
and housed 250,000 people.
All the city was planned.
Right underneath us there was a huge sewer,
and there were clay pipes at either side of the street
taking fresh water to the baths and the fountains.
Ah, so they had aqueducts coming in and powering the whole city.
LALE: Yes.
See, these were the public toilets
attached to the Roman baths next door.
Everybody sat next to one another.
RICK: So, public toilets were really public.
The terrace houses stretch up from the city's main drag.
These excavations are incredibly complex,
like piecing together an enormous puzzle.
The fragments are so delicate,
the ongoing work is protected under a roof.
The terrace houses give us a particularly intimate look
at Ephesian life 2,000 years ago.
Now, how many families would have lived in this zone?
LALE: Only five.
-Just five? -Five families.
And these were huge houses.
RICK: This must have been the elite of Ephesus.
LALE: Ultra, ultra rich.
Not only for Ephesus,
but among the richest of the world
lived in these houses.
RICK: So, when you walk through here,
can you imagine what it would be like to live at that time?
Sort of -- it was very luxurious living in these houses.
All houses were arranged around an atrium,
so they had the courtyard with rooms all around,
which were richly decorated with art on two or three floors.
A standard feature of any Roman city
was its theater.
To estimate an ancient city's population,
archeologists multiply the capacity
of its theater by ten.
As this one holds 25,000, they figure the city's population
was a quarter million.
It was here that the apostle Paul planned to give his talk
instructing the Ephesians to stop worshipping man-made gods.
And here in Ephesus, that god was Artemis.
The local craftspeople produced statues of Artemis like this.
It was a big industry --
they exported them far and wide.
When they realized Paul's message
would ruin their businesses, they started a riot.
Imagine this theater filled with thousands of people
all shouting in one angry voice,
"Great is Artemis of the Ephesians."
For his own safety, Paul had to flee,
and he ended up giving his message by letter.
That's why, in the Bible, we've got Paul's letter
to the Ephesians.