Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette.
In today's video, we'll explore eight essential
trousers that should be in your closet.
♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪
Trousers have existed for thousands of years and have been the default way for men to cover
their lower half since the 19th century.
Not to knock you toga and kilt-wearers out there.
[clip from "National Lampoon's Animal House"] [in unison]: "Toga!
Toga!"
Since they're a garment that covers half of your body, they'll make up a decent
portion of your outfit.
The cut of your trousers will also set the tone for the bulk of your
silhouette, either adding or removing visual weight to the lower half of your body.
So, it's
critical that they tie in with everything else for a cohesive outfit.
Now, we developed
today's list with classic style in mind, so any of these trousers can technically be bought
as part of a suit; however, their main focus will be on separates from the jacket.
This
means that we're looking at trousers that have already stood the test of time and will
continue to look good for years to come.
If you love drop-crotch joggers, more power to
you.
["What're those?!"]
Please don't be surprised that they're not on the list.
Now, if you're wondering what even
makes a trouser "timeless"?
These are the key elements that you should consider.
Timeless
fit.
You want trousers that are appropriately sized for your body, with a cut that is comfortable
to wear and avoids extreme silhouettes.
Naturally, this is something that we've spoken about
before; so if you want to perfect your fit, we've got you covered.
Be sure to check out
"How Pants Should Fit," "Seven Pant Mistakes that
Menswear Experts Avoid."
Next, up you want
to consider how versatile the trouser is when creating outfits.
You want a pair that can
help you create the highest amount of outfit combinations possible.
In other words, that
bright yellow Gurkha trouser that you've been considering might not fit here.
Now, this will
ensure that you're getting better cost-per-wear, meaning you can invest in higher quality,
instead of higher quantity.
Versatility is achieved when a trouser can be combined with
a majority of your wardrobe.
Our Fort Belvedere socks can also serve as a great way to tie
your pants with the rest of your outfit, and we'll show you how to combine socks, shoes,
and pants here.
The final tenant you should consider is the quality of a trousers' construction.
Since you want trousers that you can wear on a frequent basis, it's key to ensure that
they're hold up after many wears.
Trousers made with attention to detail often fit in
this criteria.
Hallmarks, such as the use of natural fibers like wool, cotton, and linen,
are typically good signs; as well as hand-work details, such as button sewn with a shank.
Typically,
synthetic materials won't fit into this criteria.
Even though we all love stretchy pants and private.
[clip from "Nacho Libre"] Nacho: "When you are a man, sometimes you
wear stretchy pants in your room.
It's for fun."
You can find out more about distinguishing quality
in this guide.
What to consider when selecting
classic trousers?
When curating your own selection, there are several elements to keep in mind.
The trousers color will have a major impact in determining its formality.
For example, navy is
more somber, and will make it more formal than a light brown trouser.
Color can also
have an impact on the appropriate seasonality.
For example, it's much more common to see deeper
darker tones during the fall and winter months, and brighter or pastel tones in the summer
months.
Reflecting the seasonality is a wonderful way to enjoy your wardrobe pieces.
Finally,
color is critical when considering versatility.
Some colors match with a greater variety over
others.
For example, navy and gray will probably match with far more items in your wardrobe
than hot pink or lime green.
As it pays to understand color theory when combining outfits, you can
brush up with these videos.
Another key element to consider is the actual texture of the fabric
as this will have a huge impact on its formality.
For example, navy, worsted wool trousers with smooth
finishing is going to be much more formal than a plush, navy cotton-corduroy trouser.
Texture will also help convey the seasonality of the garment.
For example Donegal tweed is
typically associated as a fall and winter texture.
It's a coarse and heavy fabric, designed
to keep you warm.
While, the relaxed, breezy weave of linen evokes the summer heat that
it's designed to be worn in.
Fabric weight and breathability is a very practical element
to consider.
This is because certain fabrics either insulate heat or help to dispel it.
In other words, don't wear linen trousers in
an Antarctic winter or tweed trousers in
a Saharan summer.
Your drape preferences will also have a large impact here.
Generally, the
heavier a fabric is, the more drape it will have.
This will influence the overall look
of the trousers on you.
So, if you prefer a more structured look, a six-ounce, linen pant
probably won't be as appealing to you as a ten-ounce, tropical wool.
Cut of is probably
the most subjective element to consider.
They can range all the way from Oxford bags to
spray-on skinny.
But, the most classic cuts will fall somewhere in between the two of
these extremes.
Focus on what works best for your body type.
So, if you're like Raphael with
bigger thighs, consider pleated pants for a
flattering cut.
The cut will also impact whether
or not you want to add a cuff to your trousers, as well as what kind of break you would like.
A cuff with a full break is much more casual than no cuffs with a clean line.
So, these details
will play a part in how dressy or relaxed you want your trousers to be.
Finally, there's
also the practical question of how you're going to keep your pants up - whether you
prefer
a belt or suspenders.
Remember that belt loops are less formal than a clean waistband, but
it's all down to your personal preference.
Trousers everyone should own.
Fitting into
our first few trouser picks, these are the foundational trousers that are versatile enough
to have a spot in any classic wardrobe.
Number one: navy or dark gray wool trousers.
Navy and
dark gray will match nearly any color within a classic menswear palette, and they can be
used in nearly any outfit combination.
This means that even if you rarely wear classic
menswear, you'll have a foolproof way of looking good no matter what you put on.
Either color
is formal enough to be worn with a blazer or sport coat with ease.
Just make sure that
you don't pick something that's the same color, but only one or two shades different from
your trousers.
There should be enough contrast between the two elements to make sure that
the choice is seen as intentional.
However, a jacket is not your only option.
These trousers
can work just as well if you're wearing just a shirt or even a sweater.
You have a wide
variety of options when it comes to the fabric of these pants.
Which one works best depends
on the climate that you live in.
However, worsted well with a medium weight is a great all-arounder.
You'll get a nice drape, while picking something that is appropriate for most climates.
If you
live in a hotter climate, something like tropical wool or fresco might be a better option because
of its breathable qualities.
Number two: light grey, wool trousers.
The next essential choice
is a light gray wool trouser.
During the Golden Age of Menswear, mid-to-light-gray wool trousers
or the equivalent of blue jeans today.
This is because it serves as a neutral base that
will go with nearly any type of outfit combination you can imagine.
Since light gray is a tad more
casual than dark gray or navy, it often is the optimal choice in slightly more relaxed
ensembles.
This can even include darker colors or more complex patterns in your shirt like
a busier plaid, Madras, or gingham pattern.
The light gray serves as a backdrop and won't
fight for attention when next to a more elaborate pattern.
Number three: chinos.
Chinos or khaki
pants are a step-down of formality from dress trousers and are a staple in the business
casual world of dress.
Just ask Jake from State Farm.
[State Farm commercial] Woman: "What are you wearing Jake from State
Farm?"
Jake: "Uh, khakis.
Hey, do they ever ask you what you're wearing?
Man: "Yeah."
The biggest benefit of chinos is that they generally tend to
wear a bit cooler; though there are heavier weights
out there if you feel the cold.
Being made of cotton, chinos and khakis are generally
easier to launder than wool trousers - a benefit if you're more accident prone.
They come in
many colors from bright red to sky blue, but the most versatile option is the traditional
sandy beige color.
Similar to light gray, this is another neutral base that serves as the
base for other elements within your outfit.
This means these pants can be paired with
virtually anything.
Pure white is a bolder choice as it is even less formal, so you'll
lose
some of the versatility that makes khaki so good.
But, if you want to wear white with confidence,
then Preston will show you how here.
You can wear chinos with outfits as casual as
a
polo shirt, all the way up to sport coats and
navy blazers.
Chinos fall firmly within the
business casual spectrum of dress, but will be appropriate in most situations that you're
likely to encounter.
Just don't lean too heavily into the college fraternity look.
♪ "I Love College" by Asher Roth ♪
Types of trousers everyone should consider.
With the three essential trousers selected,
let's look now at categories of trousers.
Number four: casual trousers.
Casual trousers are the
kind that work well for relaxing on the weekend or even a more laid back day at the office.
You'll still want this to look good with a wide array of classically-inspired outfits
-
from a sport coat to a shacket.
So, the color of these trousers should stay within the neutral
blue or brown color spectrum.
This will help maximize your ability to pair them with other
items.
This means you can bring in some raw denim or other jeans.
We get it.
Jeans may not
be traditionally considered part of classic style, so if you want to take on the iconic
Levi 501 jean or denim, in general, check out
these videos.
If denim isn't your style, there
are other choices within this category.
Linen slacks or lightweight, wool trousers would
fit perfectly for warmer climates.
While cold weather options would be corduroy or moleskin
trousers.
It's really all about having something that you feel comfortable in and that's congruent
with what you already own.
Plus, casual trousers allow you to use fun, versatile colors with
your accessories like your pocket square, your
shoelaces, even your boutonniere.
And guess
what, Fort Belvedere has you covered.
Number five: summer trousers.
When summer is at its hottest,
it can feel like you're in another world.
Having a dedicated pair of summer trousers will allow
you to fully enjoy the summer season.
What makes a great summer trouser is down to its
material.
The most popular options would include cotton, linen, or a lightweight wool - all
enjoyed
for their breathability and airy weight.
You could even go for shorts instead; though,
they're
not technically trousers, but you get the point.
Off-white and white are often the go-to options
for lovers of the Golden Age of Style as white becomes a neutral for the rest of the ensemble.
Just make sure to keep the condiments away from them while at the barbecue.
However, if
you love bolder colors like pink, light blue, or sage green, this is a great opportunity
for you to incorporate them with and your trousers.
Of course, searsucker is another summer
staple.
While white and blue-striped seersucker is most traditional, you can also find something
like a navy instead.
Perfect for summer days.
To learn more about making summer outfits,
check out this video here.
Number six: patterned trousers.
While it's easy to find patterned
shirts and jackets, not as many of us consider patterned trousers.
Plain colors offer pairing
simplicity, but there's also a large number of outfits that can be made from patterned
trousers.
This is because a pattern can allow you to integrate a wider range of colors into
your outfit.
It can also help you tie different elements together.
This will generally work
best when the body of the trouser features a more formal color.
This reduces the risk
of the trousers appearing overpowered when combined with the other elements of your outfit.
You can play with this by choosing a pattern and a color that either contrasts or complements
the body.
Some classic pattern options include grids, plaids, window panes, and houndstooth.
These patterns provide unique visual interest that make outfits more memorable.
Number seven:
earth tone trousers.
Another often overlooked option for trousers are earth tone shades.
While grays and blues tend to make up more contemporary wardrobes, these earth tones
will
cover far more garments than might initially meet the eye.
What exactly is an earth tone?
It's going to include all the shades of brown, dark and olive green, and even mustard yellow.
These colors pair just as well with your blues and grays.
They're especially great for transitional
seasons like early spring and even fall.
These seasons showcase how nature is a great inspiration
when combining colors with earth tones being especially prevalent in budding plants and
falling leaves.
Don't be surprised to see corduroy and other heavier cotton weaves along with
wool
for their insulating properties.
Like chinos, these types of fabrics and colors are going
to be firmly on the business casual spectrum of dress, but they can still be dressed up
if desired.
They'll pair especially well with most sport coats since their fabrics are typically
within the same spectrum of formality.
While we're all about looking our best here at the
Gentleman's Gazette, we understand that sometimes function is more important than form.
This
means that you'll need a pair of workhorse trousers to wear when it's time to get down
and dirty.
Yes, even Raphael does not wear a suit to do chores.
[Raphael doing handiwork on a ladder]
To learn what we really wear at home, check out this video here.
Having something a little
more rugged will ensure you'll protect your other trousers while doing things like cleaning
or yard work.
What's most important about this pair is they be durable enough to take a beating,
while also being comfortable enough to wear during long periods of time.
You can consider
even wearing a previously mentioned pair once they've been worn down but are still wearable.
If we're going to source a specific pair of work trousers, go for a pair that is both
hard
wearing and easy to clean.
Some great choices here are options made from duck cotton, cotton
canvas, or even corduroy.
Although the color choice really shouldn't matter here, something
in a neutral shade means you can just throw them on while still looking reasonably put
together.
After all, you never know when the neighbors are going to pop around.
With our
list of eight essential trousers, you're bound to be set for a multitude of situations.
Do
you agree with our picks or do you feel that we left a life-saving trouser tip off the
list?
Let us know in the comments.
Today, I'm wearing a navy suit jacket with a Fort Belvedere
pocket square; blue and white-striped, button-down shirt; brown trousers; and brown chukka boots,
along with Fort Belvedere socks.
Check out the Fort Belvedere shop here for socks like
these.
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