i'm about to strip all of the chalk paint and varnish off of this little table
bring it back to a beautiful wood finish and i'm going to show you how i do it
hello furniture friends katie here from salvaged by k scott along with my grandmother's cute little
demi loon pie crust edge table i was gifted this table a few years ago when my grandparents
were downsizing and at the time i didn't really know anything about refinishing antique wood so
i painted it it was a good fix for a few years but now this distressed turquoise look doesn't really
go with the rest of my home decor aesthetic so today i'm going to be stripping it back and giving
it a beautiful natural wood look instead most of my audience here on youtube is located in the u.s
and i know that citrus strip and quik strip are some really easy to find popular paint and varnish
strippers but i don't have access to those up here in canada so today i'm going to be using
this solvable paint stripper personally i think what's more important than the brand of stripper
you're using is that you take the time to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions this little
label on the back is going to give you all of the information that you need as far as applying
it how long it's going to take how to clean it up and what kind of personal protection equipment you
need so no matter what kind of chemical stripper you end up with just make sure you follow the
instructions i am putting my table onto a piece of cardboard to sort of contain the mess because
stripper will damage your floors or anything else that it gets on i've got my respirator to protect
my lungs some goggles to protect my eyes some chemical resistant gloves and then i've also
got a disposable chip brush a couple of plastic scrapers an old toothbrush some wooden skewers
and some steel wool all of these tools are going to help me with getting the paint out of the small
detail areas without damaging the wood now i'm all geared up and ready to get started
i need to apply this stripper very liberally you do not want to be shy with this at all
or else it's going to start to dry out too quickly and it won't have time to do its job i find it's
also easier to work in small sections especially on really detailed surfaces so that you don't have
your stripper drying out on one section while you're working on another part of the furniture
this stripper says it starts working in as little as five minutes but i'm gonna cover it in a little
bit of plastic and let it sit for probably 20 minutes and then when i lift up my plastic i
can see if the paint is starting to lift up as well and i'll know if i'm ready to move ahead
i'm going to use my plastic scrapers to get this goop off of the larger flat surfaces
but once i start getting into the curvy legs and all of the carved details
i want to use my other tools to help me get the paint and the old stained finish
out of there i also have a recycled glass container to collect all of the paint goop
and any steel wool or tools that i won't be cleaning out so that i can just take
all of it over to my local hazardous materials collection site and dispose of it safely
this wet wood is very soft so you want to be really careful with whatever tools
you're using to make sure that you don't accidentally gouge or damage the details
if you have some stubborn spots that aren't lifting and chances are you will have some
stubborn spots all you need to do is reapply some more stripper recover it and come back to it later
all right there is the aftermath of two rounds of stripping on pretty much all of the surfaces
there's still a little bit of paint in some of the crevices that i think i might have
to go after with a little bit of sandpaper but right now i need to stop the stripping reaction
so i'm going to wash everything down with some mineral spirits and some more of my steel wool
that should remove any stripper residue any remaining globs of paint and just clean up the
blue haze that i have going on right now a little safety note here mineral spirits are
highly flammable and they have a very low flash point which means they're prone to spontaneous
combustion which sounds very scary but as long as you know what you're dealing with it's not so
i just want to make sure that i'm keeping any of this steel wool or any rags that i have used with
the mineral spirits separate from anything that will burn we have a metal bucket in our garage
that we keep to the side and take that to the hazardous material disposal site every so often
i left the table out in the garage overnight so that it could dry out and it's been doing
its thing for about 18 hours now so i am just trying to hype myself up to get started on all
of the sanding that i now need to do it's still a little blue but now i remember why
this table needed to be painted in the first place it's got some really large dark water
stains on the top but since it's solid wood i'm pretty hopeful that i can sand this out
if it were a thin veneer that i couldn't sand a ton i'd probably try some oxalic acid to lighten
these marks i'm using my little detail sander with some 120 grit sandpaper to get at all of
the flat surfaces that i can and the marks on the top are disappearing really nicely
do
now that i've got all of the flat spots taken care of i need to get into all of the detailed
stuff by hand i have a foam sanding block to conform around all of the curvy spots
and i'm just folding up the sandpaper in half to get into the really tiny areas
at this point i'd say that some metal dental tools or something small to carefully pick paint
out of little holes would be really helpful but you still have to be extremely careful because
one slip with a sharp metal tool can really do a lot of damage
do
i have sanded about as much as i care to on this little table there's still a tiny bit
of turquoise paint down in some of the really deep nooks and crannies but i'm personally okay with
that i could spend a few more hours digging it out of every teeny tiny little crevice
i'm just not interested in doing that so i'm going to go ahead and move on to my new finish
for this piece and i'm going to be using some of fusion mineral paints stain and finishing oil
this oil comes in a few different colors and is a pigment and oil top coat in one i'm using the
white oil today which is a little bit deceiving because i am not going to have a white table at
the end but this sealer is buildable and you can apply as many coats as you want to get the color
concentration and the sheen that you're after i put a really generous coat of this oil over
the whole table but i'm going to be buffing most of the white color off once it's done soaking in
and about 20 minutes later i came back with some lint-free rags and started wiping up this excess
i did leave the white really heavy in all of the small details to kind of highlight them
and give the table that dusty sort of french country look that i have on some other pieces
in my living room this oil will take about a week to fully cure and then it will be a
totally durable and hard protective finish this table has had quite a journey but i'm
glad i took the time to work on it again and fix it up and who knows maybe i'll paint it again
one or two more times in the future but for now i am pretty pleased with the way it looks
thank you so much for watching today please make sure to subscribe to the channel for tons more
furniture flipping and refinishing inspiration tips and tricks and i will catch you all next time