A New Version of my Pattern Cutting Tutorial
Draft the Bodice Block - A simple and precise guide
This is the METRIC VERSION
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I am using these measurements for this draft
Draw a Rectangle
Make the Width equal to ½ Hip plus 3cm
Make the Length equal to the Back Waist plus the Waist to Hip measurement plus 2.5cm
a little more in larger sizes
Refer to Nape Line coming up
The Waist to Hip is usually between 21 and 23cm down from the waist
or the level of your maximum hip measurement
Label the down lines as CB for Centre Back
and CF for the Centre Front
and the bottom line is the Hip Line
The Bodice Back
We will start with The Bodice Back This is how the block will look when finished
The Nape Line
For an 88cm bust the Nape Line is 2.5cm down from the top line
This is average for UK Size 12 (Bust 87cm)
Add or Subtract 0.25cm for sizes smaller or larger respectively
Measure down from the Top Line 2.5cm
Label it Nape Line
Square across for a guide line of 8cm or so
The Waist Line
To find the Waist line, measure down from the Nape using the Back Waist measurement
Square across to the Centre Front and label it Waist Line
The Bust Line
Measure down from the Nape the half Back Waist measurement plus 1cm
For Bust over 100cm, add 1.5cm instead
and label Bust Line. Square across to CF
The Bust Line is also the Armhole Depth
The Back Neckline
Calculate the Back Neck Width to find the Neck Point
To do this divide the Bust measurement by 8 add 3cm and halve the result for the Back Neck Width
For a Bust 88cm, the Back Neck Width is 7cm
Another method for finding the Back Neck Width is to divide the Neck Size by 5
Measure along the Nape line and square up 2cm
Label it the Back Neck Point
Draw in a shallow Back Neckline curve flattening out at Centre Back
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The Back Shoulder Line
Measure 3cm down from the Nape Line
Square across a guide line of about 25cm and label it the Shoulder Line
The Across Back Line
Find the mid point between Shoulder Line and Bust Line
Square across a guide line and label it the Back Line
Measure along Back Line half the Back Width plus 0.5cm
From this point, square down to the bust line and up to the shoulder line
This is the Armhole Guide Line
The Back Underarm Point
Where this line meets the Bust Line extend the line out 5cm
and label Back Underarm Point
At the angle made by the Armhole Guide and the Bust Line
draw a guide line at 45º and measure along 3cm
A little less for small sizes and up to 4cm for larger sizes
The Back Shoulder Point
From the Back Neck Point draw a line
equal to the Shoulder Length measurement plus 1cm
to wherever it meets the Shoulder Line
Complete the Back Armhole
Draw a curved line from the Shoulder Point
to the Underarm Point
flattening through the point on the Back Line for about 3 cm
The Shoulder Dart Position
Find the middle of the Shoulder and draw a vertical guide line down 6cm
and measure 1cm to the left
Use this as the end point of the shoulder dart
Draw a line back up to the shoulder mid point
This is the dart centre line
The Shoulder Dart
Draw the dart lines up to the shoulder seam 0.5cm either side of the mid point of the shoulder
giving you a 1cm wide Shoulder Dart
The Back Hip Point
Measure across from CB along the Hip Line
¼ of the Hip measurement and label Back Hip Point
The Provisional Side Seam
oin the Back Under Arm Point to the Back Hip Point
with a straight guide line
We will complete the waistline shaping later
Drafting the Front Bodice is next in Part 2
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Continue in Episode 2
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