how are we doing everyone so I've been making a lot of progress on the cr250
build lately but one thing I have not touched yet is the suspension but I'll
be working on the forks and shock today now it's actually been a while since
I've torn into suspension so this is gonna be a bit of a refresher for me I'm
excited though the biggest reason why I want to tear these things down is just
to go through and inspect everything and replace the fluids as well but on top of
that the seals are already leaking so they gotta get torn apart anyways before
I do any disassembly though I'm gonna clean these things up
man the forks and Jacques are looking as good as ever I'm gonna start out by
disassembling the forks the first step in taking this fork apart is to loosen
up the fork cap and in order to hold the fork in place I'm gonna slide it into
the triple clamp and use this fork cap wrench to break the cap loose
as soon as I loosen up this cap the outer cartridge oil is going to come
pouring out so I'm going to dump it all into this drain pan
alright next I'll have to loosen up the damping rod from the bottom and to
accomplish this I'll need to put the fork and a vise
so if you don't have soft jaws on your vise
you can use part of an old tube and just fold it around and that should protect
the lug plenty good enough
it would probably help if I had this vise bolted down somewhere but just
haven't gotten around to it yet
so once the dampening rod is loose you'll be able to push it out of the
bottom the fork now I'm gonna have to find a way to hold that damper rod
extended that way I can loosen up the nut and from there the damper rod can be
removed from the fork this is going to be easiest to deal with the fork out of
the vise so I'm gonna compress the fork and I've got a 12 millimeter wrench here
we're gonna put it underneath the dampening rod and in order to remove the
end of it I'll need to hold this part right here with a 17 millimeter wrench
so I'll need to put the fork back in the vise for this one
once the adjusters all loosened up you can slide out the rod that's inside as
well now it's a matter of compressing the fork pulling out the wrench and then
the dampening rod will slide out of the fork now I just need to loosen up the
cap the rest of the way and the dampening rod will slide out of the fork
so this is what's called the dampening assembly this is what controls the
dampening action of the fork and there's actually another chamber inside here so
I'm going to loosen up the cap and drain the oil out of there as well to loosen
up the inner chamber I'm gonna have to hold the damper with a fork cap wrench
and then get a wrench on the inner chamber here once you have the inner
cartridge loosened up you may have to push down on the damping rod to get it
to break free
and like I was saying earlier there is gonna be some fluid in this cartridge to
get all the fluid out it helps the pump the dampening rod now it's on to
separating the upper and lower tubes that way I can get to the seal but first
off I have to pull out this fork spring
in order to separate the tubes I'll have to slide up the dust seal which I've
already loosened up and then there's a little retaining clip in here that'll
have to pop out of place now it's a matter of sliding the two tubes away
from each other you may have to slide hammer a little bit to get to break
loose well boys the fork is all apart now and ready for new bushings seals and
fluid so I've got some parts to order up but in the meantime I'm gonna wipe these
things down with a clean towel
so the right fork checked out fine everything seems to be in pretty good
shape and now it's on to the left fork give me like 30 seconds then I'll have
this thing bust apart
the forks are now completely apart and next in line is the shock to start off
I'll need to remove the spring which begins with loosening up these lock nuts
right here
I've got the nuts loosened up and down here on the bottom color there is a
little clip that needs to be removed in order for the retaining ring to be slid
off
so the shock reservoir is pressurized with nitrogen and sadly that's gonna
have to be released in order to drain the oil just like a car tire this has
got a release valve on the bottom side of it now to drain the oil I'll need to
pull out the compression adjuster
to get all the oil out of the shock body I'll need a pump the shaft alright next
up I'll be popping off this cover that way I can get access to the snap ring
that holds the shock shaft into the shock body just so this cover stays out
of the way I'm gonna tape it to the bottom of the shock now to get to the
circlip I was talking about the seal head will have to be pushed down into
the body so to get the circlip out I'll need to use two screwdrivers one to kind
of pry the clip out of the groove and the other one to pull it up so I've got
the clip out of the groove now I'm just gonna work it up and out of the shock
body well that's pretty much all it takes now we can slide the shaft out of
the body so this shaft is being a bit stubborn not really wanting to come out
of the body and I'm going to go ahead and replace the bladder anyways but it
might help to have the bladder out for removing the shaft and this clip is
removed in the same way I pulled out the other clip
so I'm just gonna thread the cap back on to the valve and pull off the bladder
pulling off the bladder seem to help out so now I'm gonna pull the shaft out of
the body one thing to look for with shock letters when you pull them out if
they're compressed at all or got any indentation like this one that means
they need to be replaced so this one is toast there really aren't
too many parts to a shock they're relatively simple but once you start
pulling apart the stack here there's a lot of shims in there a lot going on so
this is the shock seal in that I'll be replacing I think it is time to pick a
winner for the giveaway on this clutch cover let's figure it out all right I'm
over here on the YouTube random comment picker got the URL for the video punched
in looks like we've got 802 comments so what this is gonna do is just pick a
completely random comment all right let's go that's kind of cool who will it
be Motoman FMF with shorty or stock pipe
not a bad choice I don't mind stock pipes actually and FM EPS are always a
solid option too so Motoman shoot me a message here on youtube and i'll get
this clutch cover over to you not gonna lie I had a ton of fun shooting this
video and tearing down the suspension since I don't normally work on
suspension that much it was a nice change of pace so once these replacement
parts come in the bushing seals and fluids I'll be putting this stuff back
together and I should be a good time as well hope you guys enjoyed watching the
video always appreciate y'all I will see you
later