-[Geek Climber] During the slim window
of the first reopening,
I managed to squeeze in a collab with Peter.
But unfortunately the audio is unusable
because both of us were wearing a mask
and the background music was very loud.
We didn't have a chance to re-shoot
because the gym closed again.
So we decided to have a video call to go over the footage
and have Peter teach us how to dyno through his commentary.
-[Peter] The definition of a dyno
is one where all four points of contact are off the wall.
So the first step in doing that
is actually leaving both hands out
because if the dyno is too big for you to have one hand on
the starting hold and the next hand up on the target hold,
you can't span that, but you need to be able
to get both hands off the wall to get there.
And yeah, so you did it.
It's a good little warm-up.
You know, usually that's how I have warm-ups for dynos.
It's just little pops from here to there
while taking both hands off the wall.
This is a bigger one. This is a perfect example of
you need to get both of your hands off the wall
because I couldn't span this. You couldn't span this.
So taking both hands off the wall
and actually launching yourself is huge.
As I'm watching, the first bit of trouble
that you were having was really,
you were pulling a little bit; you would jump,
but and then you'd jump away from the wall.
That really will be fixed if you just kind of pull harder
into the wall before you jump.
The most efficient way of doing a dyno is getting your body
as close into the wall as possible and the closer you stay
to the wall, the further you can go.
-[Geek Climber] One of the reasons that I did it,
I think with a lot of beginners is that
they're afraid of bumping their face onto the wall.
-[Peter] I can tell you all the mechanics and needs
that go into a dyno, but really the biggest impediment
that everyone comes across is just the fear aspect
whether that fear is falling or risking the bumping
your head into the wall, which by the way, I get the fear.
It's never happened.
I've hit my hands. I've hit my elbows.
I've never hit my body. I've never hit my head.
This is not gonna happen.
You did a really good job on that one, too.
It didn't take you very long to do it, so, yeah.
So when it comes to holding a swing,
if you do it from a legitimate jug to jug,
hold the swing. However you wanna hold the swing.
The chances of you slipped it off are slim.
But that pink hold that I jumped to, really what it was
was this really big pinch.
So that's where I really engaged my core,trying
to keep from slipping off the hold.
A lot of people will tell you
to kind of tuck your knees into your chest.
Don't do that.
Tucking your knees into your chest is not the same
as coring up because at some point you can tuck your legs in
and they'll prevent your body from swinging out too much.
And that'll work for some cases,
if the holds are good enough.
But if it's a really bad hold; if it's a pinch;
if it's a slopper; if it's, you know, tiny little edges,
and just tucking your legs,
and it's just gonna make the whole thing way more difficult.
So let your legs go where they wanna go.
If your legs are gonna swing out to the left
and over to the right, let them go.
Just don't fight the momentum.
Just hold on. Kind of arch your back a little bit.
And when it comes time to bring your legs
and go into that gymnast hollow body, hollow out your core
and that's how I think about holding a dyno swing.
That's not gonna help you with height or power anything,
but it will help you hold on
to worse holds when you're doing dynos.
I'm looking at the way your body is set up
before the jump on this overhanging dyno.
Your knees are a little bit too wide apart.
I know that for the most part, you're supposed to be able
to kind of like keep your hips as close
to the wall as possible, but you have to think about
the dyno in terms of "how am I gonna maximize power?"
And there's a few ways keeping your arms straight
rather than starting like this.
Cause if you start like this, you pull in.
That's way less than starting here and then pulling in,
but also keeping your entire lower half sunk down as well.
It's kind of like jumping when your legs are
at a 90 degree, rather than jumping from a squat position.
You're gonna get a lot higher if you're jumping
from a squat position rather than 90 degrees,
or even less than that.
When I was watching you do this pink one,
that's sort of what came into my mind was,
you got on the wall and then you kind of just like engage
your hips into the wall, but your arms are still straight.
Your shoulders and everything were back,
but your hips were up near the wall.
So if you kept everything sacked, your back curved,
your butt low, your feet in the squat position
and your arms straight, those are all things
that'll help you maximize that pull and jump for the dyno.
We had Leo do this one.
I think this one was really to emphasize
how straight your arms need to be before you pull;
how low you really do need to get your body
because a lot of the times people think
they might be getting their body as low
as they possibly can and it's really not hitting that mark.
So if you look at Leo, he really, really, really sinks
his body low before the jump.
I'm not too big of a fan of pumping before you do the dyno.
You pump once if you need to just kind of get used
to the movement. Anything over once
you're just wasting energy.
-[Geek Climber] So you actually did a few attempts
and then you finally did it.
Is there like any adjustment that you made in order
to make that possible?
-[Peter] That's the perfect example of the process
that I had to go through where each time I was getting
a little bit closer, I knew I needed more power
and I felt that I had more power to give,
but it just wasn't clicking.
I wasn't really giving all that I could give.
If you lack just a little bit in the jump;
if you lack just a little bit in holding the swing;
if you lack just a little bit in the setup,
then you're not gonna be performing at your best.
But the more I was doing it,
the more comfortable I was getting with the whole thing.
And at some point I was able to just kind of commit fully.
This was a project of yours, right?
-[Geek Climber] Do you consider this as dyno?
-[Peter] Yeah. The definition of a dyno really
is just getting from one hold to the other where
the distance is far greater than that
which you could do statically.
According to that definition, absolutely.
So this is definitely something that you'd see
a lot more common in indoor competition settings.
A lot of people will tell you:
"I don't see the value in doing these kinds of movements.
I don't really see any application
of the more general climbing skills."
But that's not necessarily true, either.
A lot of what people lack is spatial awareness
and body awareness, too.
But usually when you see these kinds of dynos,
it's a lot of power that you got to be able to put out,
to get from target A to target B.
This one, you really had to dial it back
because the movement was the same;
the distance was not that far.
There is such a thing as too much power. You can overshoot
and the swing is too great for you to hold.
So that was a little tricky,
but eventually you started getting it really well.
-[Geek Climber] Can you give us a breakdown comparison
between traditional upward dynos versus, you know,
like sideway dynos?
Like what's the main difference between the two?
-[Peter] When you get set up for a dyno, when you're going up,
you kind of just launch up, really simple, really easy.
Shouldn't be a problem.
But if you're starting going diagonally or even laterally,
that's when you really have to start pivoting.
So a lot of people, what they'll do is
they'll have their arms straight
but to try and get to the hold.
They just keep pulling like this.
That's not really gonna do much.
What you need to do is you need
to actually pivot towards the hole.
You have the sort of leg that you pogo to get the momentum.
If you have your hands starting here
and you're trying to go to the, my right,
what you do is, you pivot, and then once you're here,
then you launch a new jump.
The more directional it gets,
then you need to really be able to pivot.
If I had to give a little bit of advice
on what you can do outside of climbing to help with dynos,
box jumps, bodyweight squats,
muscle-ups, dynamic pull-ups.
But like I said,
really the most important thing is commitment.
-[Geek Climber] Special thanks to Peter for teaching us the ins
and outs of dynos.
Make sure to hit the like button
if you learn something from this video.
Also make sure to check out my website geekclimber.com
and Peter's channel as shown in the end screen.
See you in the next video.