What about you! Today I'm going to give you the complete guide on everything you
need to renovate your lawn step by step from start to finish. Let's go .........
So at the moment the lawn is very long. The first task is, we're going to get the Milwaukee mower out
and we're going to cut it down, and cut it down to 30 ml, and then we're going to take
the cylinder mower, and cut it down below that, and then we're going to start on the full renovation.
Whenever I have a look around the garden I can see all these things here. These aren't actually
weeds, these are off the sycamore trees around the garden, and they'll go away in their own time.
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Happy Days, lawn's all cut, the Lawn Sand is still working its magic.
I'm going to say, have some of these tails, so I'm going to get the strimmer out and we'll get these cut off
and then we'll get the cylinder mower out.
Happy day, edges done, now it's time to get this mower
out and do a cut with this and start shaving the lawn down.
So I've got it cut down the first go, and I just did
it half and half just to speed it up a bit.
So there's the grass that came off the first cut. I'm sure we'll fill a box pretty quick whenever
we lower it down. So we had the lawn cut at 25 mil before now we're going to drop this down to
this down in height, a real good opportunity to drop it down so we're going to go down another five ml
or so. We use this thing here that's called a setting bar, in this bit here, this is the height of the
grass, so we'll take a tape measurement measure that so that's more about 40 years old doesn't
have all the original parts, we'll loosen this side off, and we'll loosen this side off, and then we'll
raise that up, and by raising that up then that lowers the cut down. So we've loosened this off
and whenever we turn this then it's going to bring the roller up,
that one there puts pressure on the bottom base and whenever it's nice and stiff to pull in and out, then it's set. So we'll do the
same on both sides. We'll get it set and then we tighten these up again .
Before the second cut I decided to put the stripes back into the lawn. You can see clearly, see this
bit, which was striped up and then this bit we haven't striped up?
So this is a bit that we've just cut down to 20 mil, and this is the bit that we cut the
first time but it hasn't been cut so this is 25 mil and this is 20 mil.
First cut. Whenever we came to the lawn this morning it was sitting about 50 mil because it
hadn't been cut in a while? First cut brought it down to 30ml, that was with the Milwaukee
mower. We then cylinder cut 25 mil and then dropped it down to 20 mil so I'm quite happy
with where it is now but all this has taken quite a bit of time I'm, I'm halfway through
the day with a lot to do. Let's get on with it ............ our next task is now with the scarifier we're
going to scarify the lawn and that's going to create some lines in the soil for the
seed to go into. A lot of people always ask me whenever they scarify, what height to scarify at.
Today, I want to be putting lines in the soil and that's going
to give the seed somewhere safe to grow into and then we're going to compost over the top.
Have a look at this. You can see some of the lines in the soil. Now depending on your scarifier ,
whether or not you'll be able to put lines in your own soil. If you're just using a cheap
scarifier, the chances are you're not going to put lines in the soil just the way we can
with the professional scarifier. So just be careful if that's your own lawn but
you can clearly see those lines there. So I'm happy enough there.
So I have the first pass done. I'm going to go over it all again.
Double scarify complete. So our next job now is we're going to get the mower out
and we'll get all this, the debris cleared off the lawn.
So just to have a look at some of the debris, right all the debris, the waste material that came out
from the scarifying. Lawn double cut, double scarified. Next task we're going to do the overseeding.
The main reason for over seeding this lawn is because all these lighter patches, that's called
weed grasses, po annua, and you can't stop them from coming into your lawn - but the thicker you can
make your lawn the less hold they're going to get into the lawn. So just by over seeding you're going
to help reduce those, but you're never ever going to stop the weed grasses from coming in.
What we're going to do now is cover the seed with some soil. So let's do that ............
Next job now. We're going to get the soil onto the lawn.
I had intended to use some compost today, but whenever I went down to the Garden Center
the compost was wet so I ended up going for the topsoil, but either topsoil or compost,
one of the reasons why I like this stuff here is, this is heat treated it's Weed Free, means
whenever I'm top dressing a lawn I'm not going to be putting on a lot of crap onto my lawn.
Done a couple of passes, We've a bit of debris in the bottom of this It catches all the stones
and crap so I'm just going to take these stones and dump that
straight into the bin and then we're going to carry on with it.
Just to give you a progress update . Now, I started with 10 bags of this
stuff. I'm down to my last four, and we've done, we've done more than halfway.
Here we have all the soil down. This side here we probably used a bit too much,
and this side here we're sort of ran out! But we used ten bags. This lawn measures 180 square meters
so you'll be able to work that out, if you want to do it yourself it'll depend on your own lawn how
much you need but we use 10 bags for 180 square meters. I get a lot of questions about should you
use a fleece? Well you should if you're using the beginning or the end of the season, but there's
really no need. Covering your seed with soil or compost it's going to do a lot better long
term for your lawn, than using a bit of fleece and then throwing that fleece away in the bin. You want
to get your seed off to a good start, 100 percent do a top dressing either compost or good quality soil.
Whenever you're top dressing one, one of the most important things to do is to let it dry!
So I'm going to go away and have some lunch and let this dry, and it's quite windy here today,
so happy days that's going to dry it out, and whenever we come to mat it in, then it's going to be a lot easier.
Our next job is to drag the seed into the soil, so we use this here. This is
a homemade drag mat. Now I have talked about this in lots of Videos before.
Anybody that's new to the Channel, we made this for under 40 pounds. I'll leave a Link
down in the Video Description where you can pick this up off Amazon.
I've another little bit to mat in, but you can see there that's come on really well, now that is the key behind if you're top
dressing, is to let the material dry. I have two jobs left to do after finishing with this mat.
I don't usually, I'm going to break from habit. I don't usually talk about this but I get a lot
of questions at the minute about what fertilizer I'm using. So today I'm using a product called
ICL CRF Mini. It's a fertiliser that's really really good, it's designed for overseeding lawns,
and new lawns, it's going to get the lawn off to a really good start. Now if
you didn't have a product like this because it is a professional based product you just want a pre-seeder
fertilizer just like a controlled or just like a normal release fertilizer.
It's going to give it a nice slow steady green up over the whole two to three months .
After we get the fertilizer out I have one more task to do.
I'm going to give a quick shout out to Milwaukee Tools UK who sponsor my Channel.
They sent me out this little M12
battery powered sprayer and that's what I'm using for the seaweed. If you
want to learn everything about seaweed and why you should use seaweed whenever
you're over seeding lawns, watch this Video next, and if you want to find
out the fastest way to grow grass from seed watch this Video next.