- Welcome back to another episode of the GCN
Tech Clinic, where I aim to help and
solve your bike related problems.
So if you've got one, make sure you leave it
down there in the comments section for me below,
or on all forms of social media using
the hashtag #askgcntech.
So with no further ado, let's crack on
with the first question this week.
And it comes in from Patrick Zapanta who says:
"How do you riders clean a bike with DI2 set up?
I'm just afraid that I'm gonna get water into the
components, and it might short the system."
Patrick, good question.
Uh, you've got nothing really to worry about.
I've been using DI2 components probably
seven or eight years now, and I've never
had any problems with them when I've been washing my bike.
Ultimately, I mean at home, I even jet wash
my bike, and I've not had any
shortages of electrical components.
Something to consider, though: obviously if you are
using a jet wash or a hose, as well as a sponge even,
don't go wild and wacky down in there
where the cables actually go into the components.
Although saying that, I've seen Cyclo-cross
riders and their mechanics literally
jet wash bikes as if they were
submerged into the Atlantic ocean.
But don't go ahead and do that, because it is
your own pride and joy, and those riders are sponsored.
If you're particularly worried, though,
maybe get yourself some silicone grease, available from
an electrical supplier or something like that.
And just put it around the cables,
where they actually go into the components,
and it does create a nice, water-proof barrier.
Next up is a question from Jordan who's
keen to know my thoughts on how to prep spokes,
prior to building wheels.
Now, Jordan mentions products like DT Swiss Spoke Freeze,
that locks the spokes in place, like a
low level Loctite, or medium strength.
Um.
But regarding this one, really, Jordan
I've built a fair few wheels during my lifetime.
It's not something I really enjoy that much, really.
I enjoy building them for myself, but other people,
I've never really taken that much enjoyment out of.
Anyway, all of that aside, I've never actually
used any specialty locking compounds, like
the one you've already mentioned there.
The reason being: if you've built a wheel correctly,
the spokes shouldn't be coming loose.
Those sorts of products are used when, in my opinion,
you have the persistently offending spoke that's
always coming loose, and you just wanna try
and sort that out once and for all.
What you could try is something like beeswax.
I've heard of people dipping the threads of
the spokes in that as well as the eyelet
of the rim, and that just makes truing a pleasure.
If you are gonna build up wheels, yeah, like I said
I wouldn't actually use any sort
of Loctite or anything like that.
It's just my personal preference.
Although, I'm sure the wheel builders out there,
people like MrGrumpy53, a regular commenter,
he'll have an opinion on this one, for sure.
Next up is a question from Tokyo Pedestrian, who--
Hang on, "pedestrian"?
Hope you're a cyclist, too.
Anyway, right, Tokyo Pedestrian wants to know:
they wanna put a new crank set onto the bike.
They wanna put a Shimano Ultegra R8000 one on there,
but the rest of the components are Shimano 105 R5800.
Now, they've got a new bottom bracket
to put on there, a C-bear one.
That's a nice bottom bracket, actually.
Uh, however the mechanics at the shop have
told them there'll be some problems with the shifting
if they put a newer crank set, such as the R8000 one,
with the old 5800 11-speed groupset.
"Is this true? Do I need to buy a complete groupset?"
Good question.
It'll work, I reckon. I don't see any reason why not.
I know the spacings between the chain rings
are marginally different, but it will work absolutely fine.
I've done it myself, so you can take my word on that.
The only time where you could possibly run into
a few problems is if you're using a DI2 front derailleur
on that, because you can't control the throat
as accurately as you can with a mechanical groupset.
The reason being, obviously, you can really
minutely adjust all of the Bowden cables and the tension.
Where as with a DI2 style groupset, you press
a button and it does everything for you.
Of course you can set the limit screws,
but I don't see any problems why it won't work.
Okay, next up is TomaCukor who says:
"I washed my chain off the bike with dish soap,
and rinse it off, but my chain always ends up
rusting shortly after. What am I doing wrong?"
Well, you're using dish soap.
Use bike cleaner or car cleaner.
In seriousness, it doesn't really matter either way.
It is good, though, that you're actually
cleaning your chain.
What I would do is, once you've actually
rinsed it off, give the bike a good shake,
or maybe get a dry cloth, something like that and
run the chain through it to get off
as much water as possible.
Then apply some water displacing fluid,
something like WD-40, for instance.
Make sure it doesn't go on your breaks
or breaking surface, anything like that.
And then, after about 20 minutes,
when it's all evaporated, run through again and
wipe away any access, then apply your chain lube.
Therefore it won't be able to rust.
Hopefully that also answers the question of
Felipe Ramirez, who says: "If you use
WD-40 on the chain to get rid of water,
how long do you have to wait before applying
your regular chain lubricant?"
About 20 minutes.
Another cleaning style question, now.
This one's in from Lewis Wood, who says:
"What's the best way to get the bit of the frame
behind the chainset? I normally work the sponge
in the gap and spin the cranks, but wondered
if there's a more finger-friendly way."
Right then, Lewis, it's good to
have a fellow bike-cleaning fanatic.
Right, what I would suggest is: get yourself
a cloth, a microfiber cloth, something like that,
dip it in your bucket of soapy water,
get it nice and frothy there, and then
essentially put it in between the chain rings
and the chain stay or the frame, and sort of
shimmy it backwards and forwards, up and down,
and try and get away all that mucky grime.
That should do the trick.
Now, if you're really serious about cleaning
up your frame, the only thing you can do there,
is actually remove the chainstay.
It's pretty extreme, and probably not the most
time-efficient method of doing it, but yeah.
If you wanna get it nice and gleaming,
that's the way to do it.
But otherwise, get that bit of cloth
and just shimmy it backwards and forwards.
Okay, right. Ben Martinek has recently
got himself some new wheels.
They're fast and beautifully minimalistic,
but they are also much louder than Ben would like.
Is there a way to quieten them down?
Ben's read about adding a more viscous oil or grease.
Alternatively, adjusting the spring tension.
Is this recommended?
Ben, stop don't do it. Okay, the reason being
all of the poles and ratchets inside of your
free hub, they are doing a job.
If you start chucking in more grease, thicker oil,
or adjusting the spring tensions,
you run the risk of either those poles and ratchets
becoming absolutely gunked up, or the
spring tension being really, really loose
and not being able to do the job of the
free wheel, so engaging with actually the hub shell.
The two things could be disastrous.
One: it could leave you literally just spinning,
because the free hub is not engaging,
or the alternative, which is a real nightmare.
Happened to me once in a race about 15 miles in.
For the remaining 70 miles of the
race my wheel was in a almost fixed wheel state.
Because every time I tried to free wheel,
the chain wants to carry on going.
The reason being: the spring tension inside of
the free hub was too much, and yeah.
That was a big, big problem.
So if you chuck in more oil and more grease,
that sort of thing, it is just gonna gunk
them up, and not allow them to do their
normal job of springing backwards and forwards.
So, I'm afraid Ben, my friend, you're just
gonna have to live with that loud free hub.
Which is strange, you want it to be a little bit quieter.
We get loads of questions on the tech channel
asking how can I make my free hubs louder?
So you're the envy of all these people.
Eddie Grooves is up next, another bike cleaning question.
Now Eddie says: "Hi, I always have my bike immaculate.
However, I've recently upgraded my wheels to full
carbon and was wondering if just washing them
is okay for the breaking surface?
Does a residue remain from a typical
bike wash product and hinder strong breaking?
Should the breaking surface be
cleaned with anything else?
Eddie, absolutely fine to use your usual
bike wash or car wash, or even your
dish soap on your rims.
Just make sure you give it a good amount
of pressure there, just to wipe away any break
dust or any glazing over that sometimes you get.
Makes me think maybe you're not getting the
optimum breaking performance that you're seeking.
So, make sure of course, you're using a special
carbon specific break pad, there.
Because that will help.
But, yeah, there's no other reason why you shouldn't
be getting perfect breaking performance.
Next up is Trey Quattro, I like that name.
Because I do like an Audi Quattro.
"What's the GCN Tech take on waxing your carbon bike?
I was told that waxing with car polish
every few months is a good idea.
Haven't done it yet, but wipe it down after every ride."
Trey, love this question, mate.
Yeah, I use car wax or polish on my bikes.
Especially when the first time I start to build them,
because you can get all the nooks and crannies there.
But the reason I like it, is it
actually helps prevent dirt and water
and all those things sticking onto your bike.
Instead it creates a slight barrier, if you like,
and it makes cleaning a little bit easier too.
Now, if you've got yourself a matte finish frame,
don't go using polish or wax on it.
The reason being: matte frames look so,
because there isn't a clear coat on top of them
that has a really smooth finish.
Instead a matte frame is kind of like
a resemblance to a peak of mountains.
So it's like this, but that's over a
real microscopic look.
So they're tiny, tiny, tiny little voids.
If you start putting wax on it, it fills those voids
and ultimately turns it into a glossy looking bike.
Or, well, a not a matte looking one.
So if you've got a matte frame, use a matte
detailing finishing product.
There are specialist ones from bike companies.
I think Crankalicious make one, there's
probably a few other ones out there.
Otherwise pop into a local car store,
because while matte finishes on cars are
pretty cool, I've been told, these days.
Maybe on an Audi Quattro, even.
But yeah, I would always use a wax
on a frame if possible.
Now the final question this week comes in from
Ali Yazdi who says: "Hi I've got a vintage
road bike in very poor condition for free.
I'm restoring and repainting the frame,
and I'm thinking of converting it to a fixie,
can I use a track hub?
Also can the old cranks be repurposed?
I need a guide to start.
Oh, Ali, it all depends on how fussy you are,
really, with things.
Now you say, you know, it's just an old bike,
you've been given, and uh, what?
A very poor condition.
So, yeah. Something to consider
here though, is to use a track hub
inside of a road frame.
Generally, the actual over-lock-nut distance
measurements are going to be different.
So on a track hub, it's gonna be either
110, or 120 depending on the age.
Whereas a road hub you're looking
at 126 or 130, generally.
So that would involve, well, slightly moving
the frame in, which isn't ideal.
But the good news is: you can actually
get road hubs designed for fixed sprockets
that are in road widths.
So essentially, slotting straight in there a-OK.
And that will probably help you as well,
be able to repurpose the cranks.
If I was going to be racing on that bike,
I would say no. I wouldn't go ahead
and try and do all of this.
I would have something specific for the job.
But while you're just keen to use it as a
fixie and probably just pop around to the shops,
that kind of thing, so it'll be fine for that.
Right, I hope I've been able to help answer your
questions this week on the GCN Tech Clinic.
Remember to leave yours down in there for me
in the comments section below.
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