Hi YouTubers!
I'm AL Gracian from Albopepper.com.
In our last video we looked at the latest generation of LED growlights.
We saw how super high efficacy ratings can allow a lower wattage LED to outperform older,
higher wattage ones.
I was excited to share my 100 watt SF-1000 from Spider Farmer.
Well, Spider Farmer hired me to measure the PPFD of their double panel SF-2000 LED.
And if I'm taking PPFD readings anyway... why not share them with you guys?
Today we'll see how their 200 watt grow light can be used for everything from seedlings
to final stage medicinal -tomatoes.
How much area can this light cover?
How high up should it be?
We're gonna find out!
To start, I won't cover the same details mentioned in the last video.
Be sure to watch it if you haven't.
But picking up from there, what are some key differences between the SF-2000 and the SF-1000?
At first glance I figured the SF-2000 was just two 1000 panels placed together powered
by a single, larger driver.
But if you look closely, you see there's a real difference in the diode configurations.
The 1000 contains 218 diodes at about 0.43 watts each.
But the 2000 uses a very different layout.
Each half has 303 diodes for a total of 606 at about 0.3 watts per diode.
So that's 170 diodes more that I would have expected.
The SF-1000 runs a 100 watt Meanwell driver at 94 watts.
The SF-2000 runs a 240 watt driver at 202 watts.
Some interesting differences.
But how do these compare when it comes to light coverage?
The 100 watt LED worked well in a 28 inch chamber.
So I tried doubling that for the 200 watt model.
The SF-2000 covered a 56 inch by 28 inch area at a height of 24 inches.
But the lighting wasn't quite uniform.
The PPFD numbers ranged from 306 to 614.
If this was for seedlings or clones, some plants would grow much better than others.
The grow chamber was too elongated.
When I compared it to the proportions of the light it became clear.
I shortened the area to 44 inches.
Now the PPFD range only fluctuated by 150.
I dropped the light to 18 inches and those numbers shifted though, spiking to mid 8 hundreds
in the center.
So height makes a big difference.
Over this coverage area 24 inches is the sweet spot.
The average PPFD was 584.
For an 18 hr light cycle, that yields a DLI of 37.8.
And that's really great.
For normal greenhouse production, that light level will work for all types of nursery plants,
including basic high-light fruiting plants like tomatoes.
Of course, not all tomatoes.
The ones of the... um "medicinal" variety have special needs.
In its final growth stages mari-tomatoes need a 12 hour light cycle.
These PPFD levels would only yield a DLI of 25.2.
But many growers will shoot for a DLI of 41 to 51.
That means PPFD values over 950.
To get that, we need to reduce the coverage area, squeezing all available photons into
a smaller space.
So I tried a 3 foot by 2 foot area at 18 inches.
Average PPFD was 892.
Getting there.
I shrunk the area more, settling on 36 by 20 inches.
Now our PPFD was 1054.
At 12 hours of light, the DLI is 45.5.
At that light intensity, you could cover two 18 inch wide plants.
This would be fine for a mini grow chamber, perhaps as a stealth grow project.
For a larger area with more plants, this dimension can help you to calculate the density requirement
for your grow lights.
You'll need either more lights or an even stronger, higher wattage unit.
The SF-4000 might be a good option.
I honestly like the idea of using two SF-2000’s for greater flexibility over various grow
areas.
The SF-2000 can put out some fairly intense light levels.
And those levels are maximized through the use of reflective sidewalls.
Whether you use mylar, reflective paint or a reflective grow tent, salvaging stray photons
is crucial for maximum efficiency.
With no reflective sides, here's a PPFD map of the SF-2000 at 18 inches.
Let's just look at this portion of those readings.
Now throw up some side walls and you can see the difference!
Hopefully these different readings can assist you in setting up your grow space.
On one hand we have the very high-light, blooming / budding plants that require smaller coverage
areas and closer mounting heights.
But you can cover much more space in vege mode while also raising the light appropriately.
Based on this data I'd estimate that low-light plants, like seedlings and lettuce would do
well in a 43 by 34 inch coverage area with a light height of 27 inches when side reflection
is provided.
Thus this 200 watt light can cover anywhere from 5 to 11 square feet depending on the
application.
Of course if you dim it, that number might be much less...
Wait! Dim it!?
Who would want the light to be LESS intense???
Leave it to the guy who says "lettuce" and really means lettuce.
Or mentions "trees" and actually means trees.
For years I've been growing my seedlings in this three sided grow chamber, divided into
an upper and lower section.
The top was fairly roomy.
But in the bottom, there's not much vertical space.
So I've continued to use a 2 foot T5 light for things like these onion seedlings.
I knew LEDs could be a good choice.
But years ago, I found that some of those cheap, low wattage panels just couldn't cut
it.
Bad spectrums.
Low power.
And poor efficacy.
And that leads me today.
LEDs have come a long way and I can finally say goodbye to these junky, inefficient fluorescents!
Sacrilegious as it might be to some high-end growers, I'm gonna dim this SF-2000 so I can
It's putting out 3 times the light using the same power!
Replacing the bulbs in my T5 would have helped out.
But that just underscores how inferior that technology is.
As soon as you put in new bulbs, you start to lose brightness.
Now I have a system that won't need yearly bulb replacements.
The plants will grow much faster and stronger.
Obviously, most of you would never use this light in such a way.
You could just buy lower-powered LEDs at a lower price.
But I just wanted to share this with you.
These newer quantum style panels can phase out older LEDs as seen in my previous video.
They'll crush any T5 fluorescent systems.
But what about HIDs like metal halides or high pressure sodium?
I showed a chart in my previous video comparing the efficacy of various lighting techs.
Well here's a more recent update showing how LEDs compare to various HIDs.
A great little article for you to read.
Check the link in my description.
Magnetic vs electronic ballasts vs doubled ended HPS systems all have different rates
of efficacy.
So it depends on the type of HID and its specs.
And regardless of efficacy, you'll still need enough power to achieve your target light
levels.
That being said, a light like this SF-2000, running at 200 watts, could easily replace
400 watt HPS if it uses a magnetic ballast.
I hope the data shown in this video has helped you to evaluate the Spider Farmer SF-2000.
But hopefully, it also gives you tips in optimizing your light for your own grow area.
Remember: larger plants, more plants, larger growing area, later growth phases, shorter
day cycles... these variables all require brighter light sources.
That means good side lighting, higher wattage systems, more lights, reduced coverage area
and or closer light placement.
But if you get it right, you can expect great results, with healthy productive plants!
Thanks for taking time to watch.
I appreciate all of your support on my channel.
Please subscribe if you haven't already.
And as always, Happy Gardening!