Thalassery biryani is a rice-based dish blended with spices and chicken. As it
is the only biryani recipe in Kerala cuisine, it can also be called Kerala
biryani. The main difference between Thalassery
biryani and other biryanis is that it uses only Khaima/Jeerakasala rice—a
short-grain, thin rice which is also called biryani rice in Kerala. The dish
does not use basmati rice. Biryani is an exotic dish of Mughal origin, but this
variant is an indigenous recipe of Malabar. It is a symbol of the cultural
amalgamation of Mughal and Malabari cuisines. The Mughals brought the
cuisine of biryani from Samarkand, and later variations of biryani developed in
different parts of India. Thalassery biryani may have come to the region
because of the influence of the Muslim rulers of Mysore and Arkot.
Thalassery biryani is a cultural embodiment and is reminiscent of foreign
influences in Malabar; it is a reminder of the Mughal-Arab cultural influence in
North Kerala due to the trade that lasted for many centuries before the
1900s and the emigration to the Middle East of locals from the 1970s onwards.
Thalassery sea port was an export trade centre for spices where a convergence of
European, Arab and Malabar cultures occurred.
Etymology The name "Thalassery biryani" originates
from Thalassery, a town in the coastal Malabar region in North Kerala, India.
The word "biryani" is derived from the Persian word biryān which means "fried"
or "roasted". Biryani was believed to have been invented in the kitchens of
the Mughal Emperors; Thalassery biryani is one of many ways of preparing biryani
dishes. In the local dialect-Malayalam, there is a small variation in
pronunciation. It is called biri-yaa-ni instead of bir-yani
Historical and cultural influences Thalassery biryani is an ample insignia
of the Islamic cultural influence in the region. The dish is a traditional
Mappila or Malabar cuisine. Ancient written records—except for a few
treatise by historians—citing the origin of Mappila's are rare. The mythology
about the conversion of the last Chera Emperor—Rama Varma Kulasekhara
Perumal—to Islam from Mahodayapuram by Malik Deenar and subsequent conversion
of Perumal's sister and nephew residing in Dharmadam(a village located north of
Thalassery) is generally believed to be the origin of Islam in North Malabar.
Perumal is believed to have left Kerala from an erstwhile feudal province in the
region named Poyanad which lies in between Thalassery and Kannur taluks.
Perumal's nephew Mahabali, is believed to be the first Ali Raja of the Arakkal
kingdom—the sole Muslim kingdom of Kerala. The Arakkal Kingdom controlled
Dharmadam until the formation of Kerala state on 1 November 1956. The legend
showcases that these incidents had a significant influence in introducing
Islamic culture in Thalassery. In the ancient period Thalassery—An erstwhile
port town in North Malabar— was geographically in the convergence point
of three regional provinces Chirakkal, Kottayam and Kadathanad. It was also the
end point of the 'Perya pass' coming from the eastern hilly areas of Coorg
and Wayanad making it an important trade center of spices in Malabar. The Arab
traders, the Arkot rulers and the invasion of Sultanate of Mysore were the
other important factors which introduced and developed various Islamic culture in
the region. During the Muslim holy month of Ramzan,
Malabar dishes are made in abundant varieties. The Muslim community of
Malabar differs culturally; the lifestyle of the trader communities near
the coastal towns differs from that of the farming communities in the inland
and hilly areas; Malabar cuisine varies throughout the region. In the modern era
as communication improved exponentially, the differences of culture between
coastal and hilly area became inconspicuous resulting in the
amalgamation of food culture with in the Muslim community in Malabar .
The Mughlai cuisine had a significant influence upon Malabar recipes. Mughali
recipes including Biryani, Pulao, Thandoor, Nan and Roti spread throughout
India. The ingredients included rice, maida, wheat and there was extensive use
of ghee and oils for preparation. Sweet delicacies were made from jaggery. Most
of these dishes are non-vegetarian; chicken, mutton, lamb and beef are used
but pork is not consumed due to religious regulations. Dish range from
mild to extremely spicy, and the dishes have distinct aromas.
The practice in Islamic food culture is that the non-vegetarian dishes are
required to be "Halal" compliant, such foods are supposed to be consumed by
Muslims as a religious directive. The Malabar Mappila dishes are preferred by
some societies to be compliant with the 'Halal' method of food processing.
Malabar cuisines There are two classes of the
non-vegetarian cuisine in Kerala; 'Malabar cuisine' which is from North
Kerala and 'Syrian Christian cuisine' from the South. They are clearly
distinct from each other; the former has Mughalai-Arab influences and the latter
is a mix of Kerala traditional dishes which is rich in coconut and the Syrian,
Dutch, Portuguese and British recipes. Thalassery biryani is a Malabar cuisine
recipe. Most of the Malabar dish cuisines are through frying using ghee
and most of them are non-vegetarian. There are spicy as well as sweet dishes
in them. Some of the Malabar cuisines are Ari Pattiri, Chatti Pattiri, Coin
porottas, Kallummakaya fry, Arikkadukka and biryanis of chicken, mutton, prawn,
fish, egg and sweeteners like Aleesa, kadalpparippu ada, kozhikode halva and
kayanirachatu. Biryani is usually seen as an occasional
serving. The Malabar dishes for breakfast are Pattiri, Orotti etc. and
the sweeteners are mostly used as snacks in evening. The dish 'biryani' came to
the region due to the Islamic influence and the recipe gradually evolved into
Thalassery biryani which has a distinct cooking method and taste.
Differences from other biryani Thalassery biryani uses a unique,
fragrant, small-grained, thin rice variety named Kaima or Jeerakasala.
This rice even though small in size, is different from the common small rice
used in many Indian rice dishes. Kaima/Jeerakasala is not round unlike
these common smaller variants and the fragrance of Kaima/Jeerakasala is
another distinct feature. Other kinds of rice that could be used are Jeera rice,
Jeerakasemba or small Bangladeshi biryani rice. The rice is white, short
grained, thin, but it is the aroma of these rice varieties which make then
distinctive. The recipe and cuisine of Thalassery biryani has clear conspicuous
differences with other biryani variants. The Kaima/Jeerakasala rice does not need
pre-soaking, water is only used to clean the rice. After adequate boiling there
should not be any water remaining in the cooking dish as it should have been
evaporated completely. This is a major difference from other rice preparation,
in which water has to be drained off after cooking.
The blending of ghee rice with masala is done by the dum process. The biryani
masala and ghee rice are arranged in layers inside the dish. Meat is cooked
with masala on slow fire; it is layered with rice and the lid of the container
is sealed with Maida dough or a loin cloth. Hot coal or charcoal is placed
then above the lid. Thalassery biryani is a Pakki-Biryani. There are two types
of biryani; "Pakki" and "Kacchi", In Pakki style, the ghee rice is added to
the fully cooked chicken-masala mix and then cooked by the "dum" process; where
as in Kacchi style the ghee rice is added to the half cooked chicken and
then cooked till it is fully cooked or the dum process is used.
Specially dressed chicken is poured into the masala dish. The chicken is slowly
cooked in the masala, and gets blended well with the juices of masala and
spices. The Thalassery biryani recipe has additional distinct features; unlike
other biryanis it is not oily because of the dum process used for preparation. A
unique blend of spices is added and the Kaima rice also adds a unique flavour.
No oil is used to make the chicken, which is added raw into the masala mix.
Ingredients For the recipe, see Thalassery biryani
at Wikibook Cookbooks Khaima(Jeerakasala) rice
Chicken Onion
Ginger Garlic
Green chilli Lime juice
Shallot Coriander leaves
Mint leaves Tomato
Ghee Hydrogenated vegetable oil
Coconut oil Edible Rose water
Curd or yoghurt Table salt
Spices: Garam masala powder, Persian Cumin, Mace, Turmeric powder, Red chili
powder, Black pepper powder, Crushed curry leaves Cinnamon, Cloves, Cardamom,
Malabar leaf, Indian white Poppy seed(Kaskas) and for garnishing and
texture Saffron soaked in milk, Pinch of artificial food colour, yellow or
orange; and fried mix of Onion, Cashew nuts and Kismis, Star anise.
Preparation Accompaniments
Common side dishes served with Thalassery biryani are Coconut-Mint
chammandi, South Asian pickle and Raita. After the meal, hot lime-black tea is
served; this adds a special taste after the main course and is an aid to
digestion. Lime tea is a common afters in the Malabar region, especially with a
rice based main-course. Fried Indian anchovy or smelt can be
served as a starter if required and this is garnished with chopped onion, curry
leaves and lime juice squeezed over it. Fried chicken in smaller pieces is also
seen in some fiestas as accompaniments or as starters.
Daahashamani water, a medicated herbal water, is preferred to be used when
drinking water with biryani. Daahashamani is an ayurvedic medicine
and natural thirst reliever and digestive aid prepared by mixing dry
ginger, cardamom, cloves, coriander seeds, mimosa catechu, sapanwood,
vetiver, puncturevine and sandal wood, it is usually available in local
markets. Popularity
The dish is popular and is often served in Malabar in weddings and other
celebrations and parties. Biryani is an unavoidable dish for the Muslim
community. Even though Sadya is the traditional cuisine for Hindu weddings
in the region, Hindus and Christians often serve biryani, mainly because it
is easier to prepare than other main course dishes and it is a complete food
that avoids the extra effort of making curry. Unlike south Kerala, non
vegetarian dishes are served during Onam and Vishu in Malabar and biryani is
often served on these occasions. Nutrition
The dish is rich in nutrients as it is a rice-spice dish. It is high in proteins
and carbohydrates, and is also a source of minerals and vitamins. Nutritional
value of the spices is mentioned in the notes. The dish contains unsaturated and
saturated fats; the saturated fat can be reduced by adjusting the quantities of
hydrogenated vegetable oil and ghee. In fiction
The Malayalam movie, "Ustad Hotel" is based on the preparation of Malabar
biryani. The film is about a restaurant that specialises in Malabar cuisines
that were made without adulteration and according to traditional recipes. The
film narrates that customers choose this restaurant for the authenticity of the
dishes. The fictional restaurant depicted in the
film is a prominent destination for food lovers as the cuisine is based on
genuine Malabar recipes. The restaurant serves their flagship dish-Thalassery
biryani to all customers who reach there for the first time. The story depicts
these customers as admiring the dish from the first time itself and whenever
they come back to the city they choose this restaurant and order this biryani
The story depicts the importance of fiesta in Malabar culture. The choice of
making the recipe of Malabar biryani as a theme for a blockbuster film shows how
elegantly the dish is perceived in Malabar region and throughout Kerala.
See also Biryani
Thalassery Cuisine of Kerala
South Indian cuisine List of rice dishes
Notes and references = Notes =
Name of ingredients and their corresponding nutritional value. Data
reference: Nutrient Data Laboratory, United States Department of
Agriculture-Agricultural Research Service. Items marked in asterisk are
optional ingredients. = References =
Bibliography of notable references Further reading
Malabar biryani: Abdulla, Ummi. Malabar Muslim Cookery. Orient Blackswan. ISBN
8125013490. Hyderabadi biryani: Karan, Pratibha. A
Princely Legacy, Hyderabadi Cuisine. HarperCollins. ISBN 81-7223-318-3.
Basmati Chicken biryani: Grandhi, Bindu. Spice Up Your Life: The Flexitarian Way.
New York: Cedar Fort. p. 109. ISBN 1599552736.
External links Thalassery biryani at Wikibook Cookbooks
Map of Thalassery Town: Google Maps Recipe for Malabar biriyani:
deepsrecipes.com