Flipping the carcass of the coop upside down, I placed the floor on top and placed a screw
at each of the four corners, squaring it up as I went along.
Drawing a line to each corner screw gives me a reference point for all the other screws.
I'll have a closer look and more detail about how I measured the roof trusses on my
website. You can check the description for that link. But basically I marked the center
of the board. Then an equal distance to each side from center. Then three quarters of an
inch down from those two marks. Draw a line from there to the corners on each side. If
you didn't get that don't worry I didn't even understand it myself, just check the
website I'll have an image with measurements on the blog post.
Clamp the piece to the workstation and off with the jig saw. No you can't use the bandsaw.
OK, you can but that's just between you and me. If anyone asks no you can't.
Use the first piece cut as a template for the second.
Now that those are cut, I'll attach them to the chicken coop. I'm using construction
adhesive here and then come back with two and a half inch screws.
The roof slats are 1x4's cut to length on the miter saw. Match up the overhangs. Some
glue. And screws. I've switched to a silicon caulk between
the roof slats. I made this base for the chicken coop to sit
on. Doing this provides valuable shade from the midday heat and allows for more run space.
The run itself can be attached and detached from the coop by way of these threaded inserts
and thumbscrews. I also built the run in three different pieces so it can be disassembled
and taken with us when we move. Also the doors are an inset design and I've attached a
stop on the inside of the coop to keep the doors from being pushed in.
The coop itself is small enough it can fit in the back of our car and pull double duty
as a transport carrier. If you would like more information about this
such as a cut list and materials, or other DIY projects. Visit me at Simply Easy DIY
dot com. Until then.