hey Jody here thanks for watching another video from welding tips and
tricks calm I've got a lot to cover today so we're going to get right into
were doing a 1F 2 F 3 F & 4 F T joint all using the
same exact technique this is part 1 and part 2 I'll also stack a bunch of beads
using a slightly different technique and then we'll do a cutting edge and check
and make sure we penetrated everything let's do it this is the technique and
basically it just traces the leading edge of the puddle flat horizontal
vertical uphill and overhead same technique just traces that teardrop
shape in the front of the puddle first up is flat one F flat T joint two F
stands for fill it weld so for the flat the one F and the horizontal two F I'm
gonna be using a slight pull angle a drag angle and just from that I know
that I'm gonna get some common saying that I should have been pushing it but
I'm gonna keep everything the same here I'm gonna use the factory recommended
settings on this eSAB rebel 205 this is the one that does TIG ACDC as well as
MIG and stick and flux core and I'm going to use factory recommended
settings for quarter-inch thick steel except that I dropped a wire feed speed
by about 10% recommended also is 35 percent on the inductance I'm gonna get
into that probably doing some messing around with that later on changing that
I already have done a little bit of changing it running some some tests at a
hundred percent inductance on some thin 11ga uphill but for right now 20 volts
three hundred and thirty three inches a minute thirty five percent inductance
and I'm going to be using this technique which is going to keep my arc toward the
leading edge of the pole so I'll be watching that that tip of that wire and
try to make those little V's try to keep that up in the front of the puddle so I
can punch it down into the root of the joint again I'll do the cutting edge and
a part two video here to see how we did on that with all short circuit MIG
welding it's important to watch your stick out and that's the distance from
the contact tip to the arc basically and I'm trying to keep that less than half
an inch 3/8 probably even better so take a look at your nozzle and contact setup
and make sure your contact tip isn't recessed way back up in
there this is about flush flush works I would kind of prefer it to be protruding
just a little bit because on a want to fill it weld like this you can only get
in there so close because of the nozzle all right
2f horizontal it's almost the same as 1f it's just a little bit different it's
really no more difficult but same exact technique I'm going to be tracing the
front a leading edge of that puddle get that arc punch down in there to get
penetration same thing a little bit of a drag angle I've done lots of videos push
versus pull and there there are definitely differences but you can
penetrate using either one with short-circuit MIG pulling seems to
penetrate a little deeper when you get into spray transfer thence when I would
say push as a rule you can also pull when you have to even use a spray again
I'm using the little series of V's sort of tracing the front edge of that puddle
trying to stay up in the front trying to hold a short stick out and I got to
mention that this is probably not the best technique for looks I have found
that it doesn't look quite as good as like doing a series of cursive E's or
something like that but whenever I've done cutting edge
tests this technique has always been very consistent getting penetration into
the root now I'm sputtering here like crazy and I discovered the reason is I
did not get a good ground I didn't forgot to attach the ground to a good
spot so basically I'm grounded here on this little tree and I'm grounded
through a rusty plate and it's transferring through the table up
through a vise and that was sputtering like crazy toward the end because of the
ground so a ground is super important with mig welding that wires coming out
whether you got a ground or not we're overhead a lot of people think you need
to turn the Machine down so that if the bead won't sag and I have found that I
run it pretty much the same as I do flat or horizontal what is really important
though is gun angle so if I do use a little bit of a drag angle I'm not gonna
use much angle at all in fact after the fact here I noticed that I was doing a
little slight slight drag to start with but then then kind of transitioned into
a little bit of a push and then I didn't even realize it but you know what dead
nuts straight in ninety degrees is something really good
for you don't want to get carried away with too much push you don't want to do
too much pull so shoot for 90 degrees you'll be good to go
once again the technique is the same just tracing the front edge of the
puddle and once again trying to keep my stick out as short as possible without
bumping my nozzle all over the place I think the short stick out probably
helps more than anything as well as the good hot settings for overhead so let's
do that couldn't hardly capture a good you know line of sight here with the
camera but so this is sort of a trailing shot here but you can sort of see that
I'm using that same technique and I'm trying to keep a really short stick out
as I mentioned before on the part two of this thing I will also stack two more at
least two more beads on each one of these probably a lot more than that
actually and then we'll do a cut net and then we'll check the root penetration as
well as in between layer penetration on that video now for the vertical uphill I
am turning this thing down and basically I'm just using the next metal setting
down for the from the chart that's on the inside of the machine and I'm
dropping the wire feed speed by about 10 percent and once again I'm sounding like
a broken record I know but keeping a short stick out super
important on being able to punch that arc and that wire down into the root I
ran into that grounding issue on an earlier joint on the horizontal so I've
got that bare copper strand of wire in addition to the clamp clamp directly to
the piece here so I should be getting a good ground from start to finish here
I'm sweeping that arc right up into the end of the root of joint it looked it
kind of looks like a V especially on the vertical uphill here but again I'm just
a series of upside down V's and once again this is probably not the best way
to make the best looking weld uphill or any of the others but it works as far as
getting penetration just a good go-to technique if you're in doubt if you
don't have time to practice and perfect techniques to make everything look great
it's just a good go-to technique to make a good sound weld and that's what's most
important I just got some new TIG gloves in added them to the store black ones
just like the other ones except black so don't show so much dirt nice then nice
and soft no seam on the palm where sometimes it pops open and you get a hot
spot there you can check them out at well monger com that's my store that's
how I support these videos see you next time
you