- I don't think surfers eat shark,
because then the shark's gonna eat you. [laughs]
Hey, I'm Kolohe Andino, and this is "The Breakdown."
[upbeat music]
This is "Point Break."
My dad's actually in this movie at the beginning
where there's kind of ripping and thrashing around,
it's like a lot of close up water clips,
and that's my dad and Matt Archibald.
They actually drove out there together for the casting part.
He has a little like, kinda, I guess cameo
and where he's supposedly smoking weed under the towel.
- [Guy On Beach] Hey.
- I think it's a classic for everyone,
but it's just a funny classic for my family.
[people laughing] - Stop here.
- That would not be how you lay your surfboard down.
You're supposed to treat it very nicely and like,
love on it, so you don't just like throw it down.
Cause what if there's some like rocks there and stuff,
and then it just gets all dung up,
and then you can't even surf it.
If there's like a ding in it and the water gets in it,
and then the foam inside of the glass
will kinda absorb the water?
And the board will change weight.
A lot of boards have like carbon in different places too,
to make it extra strong because percentages of them
breaking are higher in different parts of the board.
Like for me, I break my boards a lot in the last third,
so there's kinda some carbon around the rails and stuff.
[upbeat music]
- Pop!
Pop!
You stand straight up, you're just gonna fall right over,
so let's try it again.
Start over, just do it again.
- Kinda got a wire, I think.
He's got the popup quick.
His stance looks nice and wide,
so it'd be hard for him to fall.
So she's kinda lying right there, but yeah.
Then he's got his arms in front,
like kind of like a little bit of a style, so yeah,
he's ripping it.
[man hollers] - Let's do it, huh?
- Just do it again, pop up.
You gotta stay low, you gotta bite it.
- Surfers are just a bunch of bullies, right?
Kinda, if you're doing that in the wrong place,
Someone would be like, "Yeah, bro, you're ripping."
[chuckles] Just the way it is.
I've heard a lot of people actually say that.
Yeah, I tried to surf, but then once I got on the water,
everyone was just so mean that I just quit. [giggles]
You know, there's definitely places to learn to surf.
And if you're learning to surf at a place
that's like localized or not to learn to surf,
you're kind of like, Hey man,
like if you get in someone's way you run someone over
or something like it can be bad.
So there is a little bit of sense into it.
Like I said, if you just kinda know the spots to go
to learn how to surf, then you'll be fine
'cause there'll be a bunch of people like you there.
♪ It all my hands ♪ Nice, turtle shell.
So you kinda like flip over and like a turtle has a shell,
you kinda hide under your board.
Someone that doesn't know how to duck dive,
which is when you like push your board
and your knee under the wave,
that would be like a perfect maneuver.
Yeah, but it doesn't look like he's doing it very smoothly
'cause his foot's kinda,
you're supposed to kind of hide under the wave
and then the wave will kind of go up and pass you by.
And then you continue to paddle out.
[static]
Yeah, this looks like afternoon.
Really good time to surf.
You can't beat off shore conditions in the afternoon
'cause it's like a big rarity.
Early in the morning when it's cold,
the wind blows from the shore to the water,
which makes off shore, cleans up the lines of the wave.
Once land heats up, the wind switches and it goes on shore.
I'm guessing that is actually Keanu Reeves
because it just looks like some dude
trying to learn how surf, and yeah, that's for sure.
[giggles] Let's go back.
He did go to his knee, a little bit of a safety thing
because the popup is kinda,
you gotta be in control of your board,
and you're not necessarily touching your board
the whole time, so you just kind of like [blows air.]
Even like really, really top pro level surfers
never really get the pop up thing like perfect.
If you look closely, their knee will drag or touch the board
or something will happen with their knees.
So yeah, it's a normal thing.
[static]
Looks like they're so in love.
[laughter]
[static]
What about that spray reggae flames<
It's a little bit on both sides.
The last time I watched this movie,
I was like reggae flames, that's insane.
Two worlds colliding.
I should do that. [laughs]
That was I guess, perfect scenario
where he kinda just faded out in the back.
Yeah, it's funny 'cause surfing
has so many different things.
Like you gotta paddle out, you gotta this and that.
And then you're finally riding the wave,
and you're like, wait, how do I get off my board?
I'm gonna hit the sand or I'm gonna hit a cliff.
So yeah, you gotta learn how to end your wave too.
[upbeat music]
- You're surfing!
- What did she say?
Oh wow. What a moment.
[laughter]
You can get to his level in a day, for sure.
If you're like somewhat coordinated and paying attention.
If I took you out to like the right place
with the right board and stuff and I pushed you in,
I did everything and there was no waves,
like big waves breaking when we were getting out
to the lineup, like the board's so big,
it almost feels like you're just standing up on the ground.
You could learn how to surf better than him
probably in a day. [static]
"Blue Crush."
I guess it's like a classic kinda like funny, you know,
in a weird surfing way.
- Surf it!
[dramatic music]
[crowd cheering]
Let me pause it here.
One of the things that seem realistic is like,
when you're competing and the waves are big,
the people on the beach are yelling, "Go, go, go!"
Yeah, that was super realistic.
[dramatic music]
- [Announcer] Gets her rail, makes the drop textbook.
Oh, it's setting up perfectly.
Look at that beautiful wave.
- That's pretty nicely edited, huh?
Kinda looks real.
[dramatic music]
[static] I'll rewind this here.
Actually the paddling, everything looked real
'cause a real pro surfer did it.
It was just one part where they flipped to her face,
and it actually looked like she was goofy foot
on the wave and she's been regular the whole time.
So right here, she has her back to the wave, the whole clip.
And then the one clip, she has her face to the wave.
So it's kinda like backwards.
Oh, this is Pipeline actually.
It'd be on the North shore of Oahu.
This is actually where the world title's decided every year.
It's the last event of the year.
A day like that would be looking for a wave
that's gonna tube, positioning yourself to get deep enough
in the tube to where you disappear,
but also come out's a fine line.
[static] [dramatic music]
[wave crashes]
Oh, she falls.
I thought she made that.
So that's realistic too,
because when she pulled in,
and you're looking into the barrel,
she was way too deep.
Like, because we call the tube monster.
It's funny because I have all these weird little things
we say, but tube two monster ate her up
'cause she was way too deep.
You know, when the wave breaks and an inside here
there's like foam and it's kinda like a ball.
Sometimes your ride over that
in the barrel and kinda come out.
But if the foam ball's too big,
then that's when it becomes the tube monster
and then it eats ya. [laughs]
[dramatic music]
I don't remember this part.
What happens there is like every surfer's nightmare
because it could be like two feet deep.
And if your leash gets wrapped around a reef
you could be like this far away from the surface
and you can't get up 'cause the water's rushing up
like this, you're stuck to the bottom.
And you can't like when you get to your leash,
there's only like it's like that big where your leash
kinda sticks out for like a quick release
or like a last chance thing.
People have died like that a lot, even in small surf.
[dramatic music]
Oh, go back right there.
Go to where they showed her leash, right there.
See that like yellow thing right there?
That would be your last chance to grab and pull.
- Where is she?
- Come up, Anne Marie, come up.
- Oh, she got the thing.
[gasps for air]
[wave crashes]
- Does not look fun.
That's what happens.
It's like you ride one, you eat it,
you get pounded on that wave,
and then you get three or four more right after.
So that sucks.
When you're thinking about paddling out that day,
you're like, "Oh, I really hope I don't get inside."
You could tell that one, it's just her head right there.
And that thing just like boom, right on her head.
Yeah, that's aggie, we would say. [giggles]
Up next, "Forgetting Sarah Marshall."
[static]
- Don't try to surf.
Don't do it.
The less you do, the more you do.
Let's see you pop up, pop it up.
- Oh, no! - That's not it at all.
- He set up parallel stance.
So if you're parallel, then your weight is like
kinda from rail to rail.
It's very like sensitive.
So if you go, the board'll just tip and fall.
Whereas if you're like that, I guess your weight is uneven,
then it's not gonna really matter at all.
So yeah, you don't want to be parallel stance.
What he actually said was like do less or don't think.
His like motto is actually pretty spot on with surfing
because it's almost like the harder you try,
the worse you are. [static]
- Remember don't do anything, nothing, pop up.
- [laughs] That's pretty good.
The best way I could describe it as like doing a burpee,
but without the jump.
So you kind of just jump up, I dunno.
The first time he did it, he actually was pretty good,
but he just stood up parallel stance.
- You know, you gotta do more than that.
Just do it, feel it, pop up.
Yeah, that wasn't quite it,
but we're gonna figure it out out there.
Let's go surfing.
Come on.
Everybody's learning how.
[laughter] [static]
- [Man Off-Camera] In all seriousness,
how good of a teacher is Paul Rudd here?
- He's pretty good, I think. - [Man Off-Camera] Think so?
- He kinda nails it, yeah.
He's not bad.
It's kinda two different sports too,
where you have to paddle out to the lineup.
I know this from teaching my wife how to surf.
Paddling out, just getting out to the line up
is like a whole thing.
Once you get out there,
there's like the waves breaking,
and they're like scared of sharks and they're cold
and like the wind and then like you're not in a wave pool
so waves are just kinda breaking everywhere.
It's tough.
So the less you think, the more fun you'll have,
and that's kinda what it's all about, right?
[static]
"Shallows, The Shallows"
- [Man Off-Camera] Do you know anything about it?
- Sharks, I think it's sharks.
For whatever reason. there's like a lot of really good waves
around the world where there is a lot of sharks.
[static]
[dramatic music]
That's wrong.
You don't carry your board like that.
She has a strap on it.
It's like playing the guitar or something. [laughs]
- [Man Off-Camera] You just like hold it?
- You hold it like that, yeah.
And you don't wear shoes at the beach.
It's bad.
About three seconds in.
[suspenseful music]
[locking into place]
Nice!
Let's talk about this session here.
It's pretty realistic.
She got FCS Two.
I ride the same thing,
but I was tripping how much sunscreen she has.
- [Man Off-Camera] What is she doing with her board?
- Waxing her board.
Without wax, your board is like really slick,
which we want on the bottom of your board,
so it goes over the ocean really fast.
But the top of your board,
you want it like gooey and grippy
kinda like grip tape on a skateboard.
She kinda had a good look in her eye.
She's like really excited.
So she pulling it off. [laughs]
It looks like she's maybe in Australia
or something like that.
Let's talk about this frame here.
Yeah, that's better.
As long as you know, there's not rocks in the sand
that you can't see, you just shove it in the sand.
So only like this much of your board
is in the sand actually, and it'll stick up.
But it was sunny out this day.
So having her wax up would be actually bad
because the sun will melt your wax
and then chemicals like separate.
And then your wax just sucks and you slip off
and blow your MCL out. [laughs]
[suspenseful music]
Oh, it changed.
See that?
Now it is fins up.
They messed up.
Where she's at looks like it would be a warm place.
So that looks like the correct wetsuit choice for sure.
But she didn't zip it all the way.
She went for the like cleavage zip,
which is something I don't think women do.
'Cause then water just gets in and like the water
will just expand and then you'll feel sluggish.
[wave crashes]
That's a good wave.
That gets me excited.
That's a nice wave right there.
There's no one around and this is like perfectly off shore
with it barreling, good spot.
I wanna know where, I wanna go there. [giggles]
[static]
[suspenseful music]
Oh, it was a duck dive.
I'll rewind this here.
You duck dive every session.
If you're board's small enough,
you could push it down in the water,
just like a foot you can get where the wave's
not as powerful underneath the water,
like you saw her like kind of the wave's going over her
and then you pop up, like she is right there.
Let me jump ahead.
♪ I'm looking for trouble but you're looking for me ♪
Oh, that's funny.
She looks like an alien.
They were like, wait what? [laughs]
This is "Gidget."
I've never seen it.
[upbeat retro music]
Oh, whoa.
That's a green screen.
Well, I don't even know what the guy is wearing.
It looks like a skirt or something.
And then I don't even know what that is with a hat.
So that's pretty rare.
You see guys with hats and then I dunno
what the '50s bikinis looked like or whatever,
but that looks kind of weird too.
It looks like it could drown you like get tangled up.
[guys cheering]
You can tell that those boards are old.
I mean, look at the distance
between the back of the fin to the tail.
It was like right there.
Now there's like a big gap.
So definitely old equipment.
They're riding single fins, there's like single.
And then there's twin fins,
which is two, thruster, which just three,
and then there's a quad.
If you have this one fin, it kinda slides side to side,
but you could go straight kinda good.
And if you have two, it goes side to side really good
and can go on a rail really good.
But then you don't have that back fin to stabilize you.
And then three is both of those worlds combined.
You get the stability of the single fin,
but then you get the control of the twin fin.
Whereas a quad is very fast because there's no back fin.
They call it like the new school twin fin.
So it'd be like two and two.
It would be a quad with no single fin.
You still do have a little bit more control
than just a twin fin.
You can kinda ride whatever you want really,
as long as it floats and goes,
A lot of like older men ride quads
because they just like want to go really fast and like,
not really turn that much, kinda like
almost being on train tracks,
whereas like someone who's nostalgic will ride
like an old log that kinda looks like one of these boards.
And like someone who really likes the '80s
will ride a twin fin.
And someone who wants to surf as good as they possibly can
will ride a thruster.
So that's why I ride 'em.
[static] Up next, "Big Wednesday."
- It's going to be a real hooter tonight.
Scored a keg for your party, man.
- I don't know about any damn party, Waxer.
- Come on, Barlow, summer's almost over.
Let's get a radical. [static]
- Surfers generally think that Hollywood
like messes up surfing a lot, you know?
But, and then I was thinking about it.
I was like, maybe just surfers just think that
and we actually are like that a lot.
I don't say radical a lot, but I say rad a lot,
at least every day. [laughs]
And it's funny because like that scenery right there
just like hanging out, like the guys,
just all like rad with chick, like massaging them, you know?
And like the boys around talking about the party.
When I was younger and single or whatever,
we did that every day. [laughs]
It was radical dudes just like hanging out at the beach.
So like I said, I think Hollywood
sometimes kinda nails us.
It looks like they're just trying to capture
that whole like '50s Malibu scene.
Like in the '50s, there was no short boards.
It was just all longboards.
Longboard surfing is like supposed to be a traditional,
and I guess historic in a way.
So people who ride longboards would surf that way
even nowadays, but people who rode longboards
in the '50s, that's the only way they knew how to surf.
That would be considered a really good surfer in the '50s.
If you're a longboarder, nose riding is
one of the big maneuvers you could do.
He's not nose riding, but he's kinda up on it.
But he gets halfway there.
I guess though, like that particular maneuver right there
on a longboard being in between the nose and the tail,
kinda dorky maybe.
He's kinda bending at the waist too,
which is not good style. [laughs]
[static]
Nose riding, it's kind of, I guess it is fun,
but I don't know, it's been a maneuver in surfing,
I think forever like hanging 10.
It's really hard to do like the whole board.
I guess I'll use the remote,
the whole board being like this.
And there's only one fin back there and you're up here,
like riding the nose with your toes on the nose.
So like half of your foot's dangling off the front
and the fin's just touching the water enough,
just to kinda guide you, and it's really difficult.
I dunno how to do it.
So yeah, it's pretty sick maneuver,
but it was an interesting clip because this was before
GoPros and it woulda been hard to mount the camera
with film on the board.
So that's what I saw when I saw that. [laughs]
[static]
Oh, there it was.
So as you see it, that's like hanging five.
Toes on the nose right there, yeah.
They have it.
I've never seen this movie, but boom, there you go.
This is "Surf's Up." [static]
This is the best one, I love this movie.
It's just like sick.
I love it. [static]
- [Announcer] Hey, people, big announcement.
Cody Maverick, he's back.
The wipe out king is back.
And I'm going to tell ya,
start looking for the sharks.
They're gonna be circling
'cause there's going to be blood in the water.
Spectacular carnage today.
Thank you, Reggie Belafonte.
Hey little guy, big hair, big thoughts, big heart.
- That's so funny.
Everyone has like a weird dude that you're like,
why is this guy here?
And he's loud and talking and just soaking it all in.
So yeah, it's definitely realistic. [laughs]
[people cheering]
- Woo!
- Yeah. He's the best.
He's the best dude of the whole movie, the turkey.
He's like a typical beach bum dude.
- [Commentator] About 24 surfers battling their way out
to the ooh, good golly.
- Oh, that's epic.
That's funny how they're like yelling still,
like as they're going over the falls.
You would never do that.
You'd be like trying to get any air you can possible.
[static]
- [Commentator] What do you think
is going through Maverick's mind?
- [Co-Commentator] Just gonna have to stay focused
and channel that energy into good places.
- When are you gonna get a life?
[dramatic music]
[panting heavily]
- You are a nobody!
- That's pretty funny when you're competing,
and you're out there, you just think
of the weirdest stuff that's ever happened in your life.
You just think of everything.
So that's really accurate.
[grunting]
- [Penguin Surfer] Whoa, oh!
- Let's look at this session here.
[screechy rewind]
Yeah, that's pretty accurate.
And then the shot.
I don't know what they've tried to do here.
Cause you'd never be going into the wave, like breaking,
where the wave's here and you're going that way.
It's like a behind angle.
So I guess what they try to do is he was like paddling,
like thinking of all these things,
and he's like paddling the wave
and then like riding the wave,
looking down and then the wave kind of breaks
and they show the wave breaking.
The wave explodes and kinda goes over him.
And then that's when they show the whitewater on the lens
or on his eyes and then he kinda pops through
and then that's where he is, ripping the wave. [laughs]
[cheering]
- [Co-Commentator] What an amazing first ride.
Mind blowing for Maverick.
[clapping and cheering]
- Big Z, guy's sick. [laughs]
That was my surfing breakdown.
Thanks for watching.
[upbeat pop music]