- In this video, we're gonna talk about
if you have to use finish glazing putty
after your body filler.
Okay, I got a question on YouTube
and the question comes from Jerry Lester.
Says, wouldn't high build primer
mixed in primer fill any voids.
And this is a video where I am applying some body filler,
and then I come back and apply some glazing putty
on top of that to finish it out.
And, you are correct.
High build primer does fill imperfections.
However, the better you can get your body work...
And, you don't necessarily have to use glazing putty,
that's just an added measure to make sure that,
you know, everything is correct
and there's very minimal imperfections.
You can finish out your body filler
and apply primer straight over that.
But by using glazing putty,
it is a lot more expensive than body filler.
And, you know, you can put a thin coat of that.
You don't want to put it on thick.
You won't do all your filler work with body filler.
You just put a very skim coat on and block it out,
and this will really eliminate the amount
of priming you have to do.
Now, the glaze putty is more expensive than body filler,
but when you look at the overall cost,
the better you can get that less imperfections
you have before you prime,
the less primer you're going to use.
Now, like I said, you can finish out your body filler.
Some of the premium body fillers
they have today work really well.
I know 3M makes some good body fillers, Evercoat.
And, they work.
You know, some of them you don't really have to use
the glaze putty.
I mean, they sand nice,
they finish out nice, but I just have a habit
of always putting a skim coat after I'm done,
and blocking it out,
and that way I can prime it and block one time.
Plus if you had a lot of imperfections in your body filler
and you may have to prime and block, you know,
two times or even three times,
and that's not only going to cost you a lot more,
it's also going to take a lot longer to do that.
'Cause each time you prime,
you gotta make sure everything's masked off properly,
and you got to prime it,
then you got to allow it to dry and then block it.
So, I really think he's in glaze putty
really speeds up the process.
But again, you know, I'll be the first one to admit
there's not one right waY
to get from A to B in this industry.
There's a lot of ways to do it.
And I'm sure you know, here on YouTube or other places
you hear of a lot of different methods to do it.
And, I'm not saying my way is the only right way.
I'm just saying, this is what works well for me.
Okay, next question comes from Matt.
Says, hi Donnie,
I'm just curious.
Would it be okay just to wax and grease remove?
I just worry about getting stuck in certain places
of panels and causing rust.
Now what this video is referring to,
I'm demonstrating how to prepare a new panel
an OEM panel, and you know,
where we sat with some 500 scuff it
and get it ready to paint.
And after that, you know,
I wash it with soap and water, which I always do
before I get ready to paint.
I recommend washing it just to help remove contaminants,
you know, problems that you may have in the booth,
fish eyes and things like that.
And then, I'll also wipe it down
with wax and grease remover in the booth,
you know, after it's masked off,
make sure all the fingerprints
and any contaminants are off the surface.
But, if you've done a lot of body work to this vehicle,
and you have a lot of exposed metal
and you're getting it ready to prime,
you know, I'd maybe recommend blowing it off
real good with compressed air,
get rid of all the dust and dirt that you can,
getting it in the booth,
and then wiping it down with wax and grease remover.
But in this video, I'm just prepping a new panel.
There is some bare metal,
you know, some of the edges burned through,
but it's very minimal.
So yes, I recommend go ahead and washing that.
All right, the next question comes from DGZ.
I probably didn't say that right, but it says great video,
I clear coated about a week ago,
but I can still imprint my fingernail in the paint.
Is it okay to wet sand and buff it?
Or, should I wait longer?
Thank you.
If it has been a week,
there might be an issue.
I did have this happen to me one time,
and I was using Acme paint,
which is a Martin Senour, or Sherwin-Williams,
you know, it's all the same paint with different brands.
And, you know, it didn't dry for a long,
or it didn't never dry.
You know, it stayed kind of gummy.
You could fit with fingerprint on there.
And, you know, I had the rep come look at it,
and what they decided had happened
is I had trapped too many solvents in there.
So, I was putting it on too fast, rushing it.
And it never did dry correctly,
never got fully hard.
You could go a week later, and not just your nail,
you could push down with your finger,
and it'd leave a fingerprint.
So, in a case like that,
probably not the answer you're wanting,
but you're probably going to have to strip all that off
down to metal.
And that paint doesn't sand too good,
because it's still kind of gummy.
If this is the problem that you're having,
you'll probably have to use a chemical stripper
or something to get that off of there.
But if you're not seeing fingerprints on it,
you know, it's not that soft.
I'm not sure how soft you're talking about.
You should be able to sand and buff
the next day with most paint systems.
So, that clear coat should be ready the next day.
They're not fully hardened,
but it's easier to buff them during that time.
If you wait too long, the clear coats gets harder
and it's harder to sand and buff.
So, if it's not still kind of gummy feeling
or you can't leave just a fingerprint on it
just by putting your finger on there,
you should be okay to go ahead and sand an buff.
But, it kind of depends on
how soft you're talking about.
So, if you leave another comment on there
and kind of expand on that,
you know, whether it will fingerprint
or how soft that paint is
might determine, you know, what you need to do.
But I know when that happened to me,
you couldn't even sand it.
I mean, the paper would just stick to there, it'd clog up.
Hopefully that's not the case that you're having.
Paint takes about 90 days.
PVG recommends 90 days
for a fully cure and to fully get hard.
So, that might be what the process you're in.
It's just not fully hardened
and hopefully that's the case,
and you should be able to both that.
Well, that wraps it up for this video.
If you have other questions,
or I didn't clearly clarify the answer,
be sure and leave another comment below,
and I'll try to get to that.
Thanks for watching.
Take care.
And, we'll see you in the next video.