hey this is axe and today i'm going to be disassembling
an engine from a 2010 s1000rr that had been built and seized after 245
miles. you can see i've already taken the coils out and now i'm starting to remove the fasteners
to pull the cylinder head cover or valve cover if you want to call it that and there you can
see the camshafts. Pulling the gaskets off and now i'm moving over to the crankshaft cover
and this is the timing chain tensioner and there's the slide rail that guides the timing chain.
moving to the other side and starting to pull all the fasteners for the
camshaft bearing caps. it's in two pieces on this particular engine.
you can see the one on the left closer to the timing chain and the one on the right.
there is a specific pattern that you want to use for loosening the bolts.
this engine is going to end up scrapped because i don't trust it or the work that was done to it so
it doesn't matter as much but i'm still going to try to follow as much as i can the proper pattern.
you can see there's quite a bit of fasteners of course.
you can also see how dark the camshafts look and i'm not going to do the diagnosis in this video.
that'll be in a separate video but once you see that you can see how dark and burnt the camshafts
actually look. i've pulled off the one cover and this is the second cover screw is coming out now.
you can see it kind of starting to loosen up as it relieves tension because that chain is trying
to pull the camshafts down. you see them rising as the covers come off now that the camshafts
are gone. i'm popping the valve shims out with a magnet. you can see the pile building up on the
floor and now over here to the timing gear cover and i know it's hard to see from this angle.
i'll go around the side with the camera after all everything's disassembled so you can see what the
insides look like and the fasteners used for this timing gear cover and the other crankcase covers.
they're a one-time use. you torque them and then you turn 90 degrees past and the bolts stretch
so you can't reuse them. now i'm pulling out the timing chain and the rails and the sprocket for it
and now getting up on the top. these bolts that hold the cylinder head or
sorry they're nuts in this case on studs they're pretty tight so you can see i'm
kind of grunting with it a little bit trying to get these things broke loose
and again there's a pattern that you want to follow especially if you're reusing the engine.
i'm not going to in this case but trying to get all these fasteners out of here
you can see they're not just internal to the head but there's some external fasteners over
there i got to remove as well. now the head will come off and there's the head gasket.
now i'm over here on the right side crank case cover
and i'm going to pull that out. behind that you're going to find things like the clutch
and this again is put on with the that was a carbon fiber cover that
had been added that i'm getting rid of. there's the actual cover itself
and now there's the pressure plates. this particular bike had an stm aftermarket diaphragm
clutch installed. i'd put that in several years ago and that's a little bit different than the
stock one but it still uses the same clutch pack so i've got to take the screws out to get the
equivalent to a pressure plate off the top of it and there's one of the pieces.
now the air ratchet for getting that center
nut off of there so i can pull the clutch basket with all the clutch packs. you can see all the
discs in the basket and now the next thing below that is the coolant pump so that's got to come off
and the one particular back screw is a little bit hard you can see me kind of fight with this in a
little bit trying to get at the right angle. most things on this are designed very well to work on
overall. there's some of them that you have to hold your tongue right to get the screws out but
for the most part it's pretty decent to work on and the bmw repair manual on cd
is extremely helpful. it guides you through step by step the whole way through this.
there's that one kind of hard fastener you can see getting at now removing the oil pump chain
guide and gears and you have to kind of hold the gear still to be able to turn the bolts
out that hold it in place. that's why i had a screwdriver and a wrench in my hand at one point.
now over to the other side to take the left crank case cover off and again with these
single use screws i'm taking out and behind here you'll find things like the stator.
stators for this thing are very expensive. that stator alternate or whatever you want to call it
the stator and magnet assembly is about thirteen hundred dollars from bmw so um i was hoping to
be able to save this one and sell it or keep it for extra but it looks pretty burnt unfortunately
so it's really not even worth saving. you'll see that in a minute how black it is when it comes out
see it in the corner. now i'm taking the starter off the top. this was
allegedly new. pulled the oil filter off. here you see both sides of the open crank case and
what's behind them after you pull the components out and now we go to the top for the head studs.
the head studs go in and they take a very small allen wrench up at the top so
just slowly working through those and pulling them out one at a time
and you can see one of them here that's a little bit difficult to get at
because the wrench apparently when it was assembled might have stripped the
top of that hole out a little bit so i'll get the other ones first
and there's the last one you can see i just take a screwdriver and kind of tap the top of it to
get it driven in there so that it holds and then i can get the thing out. okay now that that's set
i'm going to reposition the engine to get at the bottom of the oil pan so the first thing
is taking the heat shield off and it's just a few screws there to take out and i've chosen to leave
it in the stand. it makes a little bit easier for leverage on some of these. now i'm taking the oil
pan and plug off so these are again one a bunch of these one time use screws in the bottom here.
there's the oil plug.
it's not that any of this is super hard work. it just takes a lot of
time and you have to be very very careful about what you're
doing.
i tried reusing one of the one-time screws once and it broke off in the bottom of the oil pan so
that was my lesson to not to try that. there's the oil pan. now i'm pulling off the oil intake
adapter and the pressure control valve that's you know kind of all one big assembly really so
pulling the bolt so i can get that assembly out.
there goes that and there's the gasket and now the oil thermostat which is below and you have to
want to be careful on this. there's a big spring behind it and it's not super high tension but um
or compression but that's off and now time to take the bottom of the crank case and there's a lot of
bolts. there's a couple different size wrenches that they'll take or sockets and again there's a
specific pattern to it. in general you take the small bolts first and you get outside first and
work your way inward. the repair cd or dvd has all that proper order and again i'm not reusing
this case so it's less critical here but just good practice to kind of work your way inward.
the advantage of leaving it in the stand like this is it gives me more leverage for some of them.
you can see there where i'm i've got a wider spread. it's almost like outriggers for the
engine so that makes it easier to get some of the bolts loose. uh the disadvantage
of course is having to kind of work around that stand where it attaches to the engine
but you can kind of adjust as you go. you just got to kind of find what's easiest
all right now i'm going to get rid of the stand and flip it over because i want to
actually be able to remove this bottom part of the crank case so i'm just finishing loosening
all the other bolts up that i've got that i couldn't get at necessarily with the stand.
this might be one of those cases where an air ratchet with an extension might have
been quicker for getting some of the bolts off but
i'm just using a regular manual hand ratchet on these as you can see. i do
have a little extension tube that i used on some of those because they are pretty tight
and now without it being on the stand i'm just trying to use the wall as leverage and you can
see it slipping around on the oil and i'm trying to kind of brace it with my knee where i can.
this becomes a lot more critical when you reassemble it because you got to be real
sure to get the proper torque on everything so you want to have a good solid setup for holding it.
looks like i lost a bolt down there. that's what magnets are for.
really doesn't take as many tools as you would think to tear this engine apart. it's
just a handful of them a few different torx bits and sockets really 12 point sockets.
most of the bmw is built with torx screws though um as opposed to just a six sided allen wrench
and you can see here just using a rubber hammer so i carefully get the cases split. you don't want to
be prying there with screwdrivers and stuff you don't have to. i did use the magnet there in one
case so i got the crankcast her crankcase is up split we've got the crank shaft and right now
what i'm doing is taking the conrod bearing caps on so if you imagine all the pistons are facing
downward now with the connecting rods attached to the crankshaft and so i'm taking the two screws
loose in each of the bearing caps and again it's kind of slipping around on me a little bit but
this was built this last time with alpha connecting rods and they're going to be
you know similar to the the forged bmw one but they're a little more high performance
and now what i'm doing is taking a screwdriver and just tapping the bottom of the piston to knock
the piston connecting rod apart from the top cap and you can see me pulling the bearing caps off.
now the crankshaft is out and now there's a spray nozzle in there that sprays oil up against
the bottom of the piston so i'm taking each of those out and right now what i'm doing is kind
of loosening the screws and then i'll take a pair of channel locks and pull each one out of there.
there's the channel locks pulling those out now flipped it over and now i'm just simply pushing
the piston assemblies out the front of the block and there's all the parts make up a 2010 bmw.