Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette.
In today's video, we'll discuss the fabric weave known as Grenadine, its origins and
characteristics and why it’s so sought after by menswear enthusiasts.
For many men, a plain silk tie seems to be good enough much of the time.Or perhaps, you
might go another step up and go with a patterned silk tie such as a repeating a geometric microprint.
But beyond that, even these patterned ties representing another step into elevated menswear
with the grenadine ties.
Because of their texture, they're different from smooth silk but they're still business
appropriate and yet at the same time, they can also be worn equally well with more casual
ensembles.
Indeed, grenadine is prized by the sartorially inclined who don't want to settle for ubiquity
in the way they dress.
Before we get ito why it's so highly valued by menswear enthusiasts though, let's go over
a brief history of the grenadine weave and cover its specific characteristics.
First off, grenadine does not refer to a material of fabric.
Rather, it refers to a weave.
It is usually made with silk although it can be made with other fabrics as well.
It is a variety of open weave made of two vertical or warp yarns that are passed over
the horizontal or weft yarns that run perpendicular to them.
It is also sometimes referred to as a “leno weave" and the result is a sheer fabric that
wears particularly well is hot climate.
And while it is popular for tropical garments, its first years was actually in a black lace
weave worn in 18th-century France.
Many speculate that because of the name, it may have originated in the Carribean Island
Nation of Grenada.
This is also boastered by the fact that it can get quite hot there.
It also made appearances throughout Europe such as the black lace weave from France we
just mentioned but its exact origins remain a mystery.
The most direct reference we have to its geographic roots is its description as an “English
gauze” or “garza a giro inglese” in Italian.
In fact, Giro inglese is still the name used to describe shirts made with this weave and
grenadine refers exclusively to neckties.
Ties made of silk grenadine are woven exclusively in the Lake Como area of Northern Italy on
historic wooden looms from the early 20th century.
This mode of manufacture adds not only to the artisanal nature of the product but also
to its overall character and conversational value.
All these to say then it could be argued that the grenadine weave comes from Italy.
On that note though, there isn't just one type of grenadine weave.
In fact, there are several.
Grenadine ties come mostly in two varieties called by the Italian terms: garza fina or
fine gauze; and garza grossa or large gauze.
A third sort of weave found more rarely is the prometeo, which means “Prometheus,”
although the mythological nature of this name has been lost to time just like grandine's
pre-origins.
The Prometheus weave can be described as a large honeycomb.
Lastly, there's the garza piccola or tiny gauze which is even samller and finer than
the garza fina.
Although these terms can sometimes be used interchangeably by retailers.
Which weave you select then comes down to your own personal preference on how much texture
you'd like to emphasize in your tie.
This being said, there are other theoritical weaves that grenadine could be constructed
into however you probably won't see very many of them outside the ones we've specifically
listed today.
This is largely because since most quality grenadine ties are made on old wooden looms,
the technology to do different weaves aside from the ones we've mentioned isn't really
available to most manufacturer.
Finer grenadines like garza fina and garza piccola tend to appear like smooth solids
especially from a distance whereas the graza grossa and prometeo weaves appear more textured.
When the texture of the tie is less noticeable, it can be seen as more formal so grenadine
ties with smaller weaves can be seen as especially office-ready.
As a counter example here though, Sean Connery’s James Bond only wore garza grossa grenadine
ties with his suits and never garza fina and his style certainly never suffered for it.
We’ve covered James Bond’s style in-depth in a previous video which you can check out
here.
Because garza grossa and prometeo weaves have a large and visible texture, they can be seen
as rough analogs to more conventional knit ties.
However, these greandine weaves are still slightly more formal overall that any knitted
neckwear.
So, let's now cover how to wear a grenadine tie.
The beauty of grenadine ties is that it is so versatile which means that it can be dressed
up with suits or dressed down slightly with more casual combinations.
Because grenadine ties are usually made from refined silk, you can find them dyed in almost
any imagineable color to suit whatever color pallet you may choose to wear.
The material and the weave also work together to give the tie the sheen a printed tie with
a more casual texture of a woven one.
In other words, you are getting the best of both worlds and multiple formality levels.
After all a luster shine is usually something that makes a grament more formal, think for
example a patent leather opera pumps or the silk facings on a tuxedo lapel, and texture
is something that will make a garment more casual, think of corduroy pants or suede boots.
So, because grenadine ties have both shine and texture, they're equally at home with
business suits or with casual combinations of sport coats and odd trousers.
And the texture of a grenadine tie works well with a sport coat that has a repeating pattern
like a houndstooth.
So, if you're taking the plunge into wearing grenadine ties for the first time, the question
remains -- should you wear a solid grenadine tie, one with stripes or a different pattern?
When starting out with grenadine ties, we'd advise that you go first for solids.
After all, they can be easily paired with shirts that are solid in color or that have
stripes or even other patterns like tartans or plaids.
Grenadine ties are also available in striped pattern as well as other styles such as the
striped tie I'm wearing here today.
And if the stripes are light in color, you’ll be able to see the honeycomb-like texture
of the grenadine weave even more easily adding to its charm and visual interest.
It should be noted as well that grenadine ties don't always come in the usual finished
silk.
Remember that becuase grenadine is a weave, and not a type of fabric, it can also come
in other materials like raw shantung silk, wool, cashmere, and so on.
It can also feature a combination of different fabrics such as the tie I'm wearing today
which features a combination of silk, wool and cashmere.
This is where a pattern like stripes can further enhance the appeal of a grenadine tie because
you can have one color stripe in one fabric and another color
in another fabric.
This will elevate the textural richness of the tie and that another point of appreciation
for true connoisseurs.
Another question -- should you go with garza grossa or garza fina grenadine ties hwen you're
first starting out?
We would advise that you actually try to include both in your collection as they each have
their benefits.
Some men suggest that you avoid garza grossa ties all together because they say that they're
more prone to snagging on things.
And while this might be true, you have to accept a slight amount of risk with any grenadine
tie as any weave might be able to snag on something.
You might have to be a little bit more careful when handling a garza grossa tie but just
be sure that your fingernails are trimmed and well filed and you shouldn't have a problem.
And after all, think about this way -- knit ties are also more prone to snagging but you
probably not going to ban them from your wardrobe so you shouldn't do the same with grenadine.
And since we would argue that grenadine ties are even more versatile than knit ties, you
really should give them a chance if you haven't already.
When it comes to tie knots, if you prefer a larger knot then you'll probably want to
go with a smaller weave like a garza fina.
Garza grossa ties are sometimes called “large-knot grenadines” for a reason.
Even if you're tying a small knot, like a four-in-hand, the larger woven structure of
the grenadine tie will still usually result in a bulkier knot overall.
Just like other neckties, grenadines ties also come in lined and unlined options as
well.
The lining or interlining of a tie is made from a piece of fabric, usually wool, that
is put inside the tie to give it a bit more body and structure.
Because the open weave of a grenadine tie allows you to see through the fabric, the
lining will usually be dyed the same color as the outer silk shell.
Lined ties tend to look more finished overall so they're probably more appropriate for professional
settings paired with business suits.
Meanswhile, unlined ties will typically have a more casual look especially if they're in
a particularly opened weave which can sometimes gives them a more artisanal casual feel.
Because of the thinness of an unlined grenadine, you'll sometimes see the folds and stitches
of the fabric on the back side of the tie as well as the keeper.
Some men shy away from this look because they are afraid that casual onlookers might see
the tie and think that its of lower quality or unfinished somehow.
For this reason though, some men will seek out these unlined grenadine ties because they're
slightly unfinished appearance can give a dash of that nonchalant sprezzatura so popular
in Italian school's dressing.
So, if you want to show this sort of rakishness, we'd suggest that you do with unlined grenadine
tie.
Unlined grenadine ties with smaller weaves like garza fina or garza piccola are especially
thin and wispy, which makes it an ideal tie for hot weather days when you're still wearing
a tie.
their thinness will pair beautifully with a giro inglese shirt and a linen sport coat
for a quintessential summer look.
Speaking of summer ties, they're just one of many essential summer accessories that
you should have on hand for the warmer months of the year . You can learn about our top
summer accessory picks here.
Lastly here, if you prefer a smaller tie knot overall, then unlined is probably the way
to go.
As mentioned earlier, grenadines will typically form a fairly thick knot overall and the lining
is only going to add more thickness.
Of course, you could try to compensate for this by pulling the knot tighter but you would
in this case risk stretching the fabric as well as making your tie too long on your torso.
Keep in mind though that even an unlined garza grossa tie will make a thicker knot.
So, if a small knot really is your priority something like a four-in-hand knot, you'll
want to go with unlined garza fina.
Before we wrap up today, here's a brief word on faux grenadine ties which have been popping
up especially in the online menswear space in recent years.
These fake grenadine can be made quite cheaply usually for under $20 a tie and they're capitalizing
on the popularity of the real thing.
From a distance, they can look fairly convincing so they might be choice for the especially
budget conscious.
In other words if all you're looking is some texture in your tie and you don't care that
it's not genuine grenadine, you might settle for one of these.
However, as long time viewers are no doubt aware, we here at the Gentleman’s Gazette
have a philosophy that it is better to buy quality items that will last rather than cheaping
it out in the short term.
You will likely going to desire an authentic grenadine tie eventually, and the cheaper
ones are probably going to wear out sooner, necessitating replacement.
Not to mention of course, that they're never really going to look quite splendid as the
genuine article.
With that in mind then, you can find premium quality genuine grenadine ties in the Fort
Belvedere Shop in various colors and patterns.
And as a bonus, they come in a variety of lengths to suit any body type.
So there's a good reason why grenadine ties are considered a staple in menswear and an
essential for any well-dressed men's wardrobe.
Solid grenadines some in nearly infinite range of colors, not to mention a variety of weave
styles making them maximaly versatile.
Meanwhile, a striped or patterned grenadine, especially one made of mixed materials, is
height of elegance.
Investing in grenadine ties will elevate your wardrobe for both business or casual looks.
So if you haven't taken the plunge yet, we'd recommend that you get a grenadine tie as
soon as you can.
As I mentioned earlier, the centerpiece in my outfit for today's video is my Fort Belvedere
grenadine tie.
It got stripes in orange and gray with a smaller white stripe as an accent and it's made from
a combination of wool, cashmere and a bit of silk to give that grenadine feel.
It's accented by a number of other Fort Belvedere accessories
including my orange exotic carrieban boutonniere and my pocket square in a color we're calling
antique gold yellow made from a silk-wool blend with paisley accents in beige, blue,
red and orange with a contrasting shoestring edge.
Also from Fort Belvedere, are my gold-plated sterling silver eagle claw cufflinks which
feature tiger's eye as the stone.
It got some orange, brown and grayish tones so it harmionizes well with the tiue as well
as the other accessories.
I'm also wearing a light brown linen sport coat with a subtle herringbone pattern and
off-white or ecru shirt and plain brown trousers that have some warmth to their color.
My shows are tanned derbys from Allen Edmonds which features wingtip, brogueing and also
a woven leather pattern that can be seen to harmonize a bit with the grenadine weave of
the tie.
Rounding up my outfit today, is one final Fort Belvedere accessory, my shadow striped
socks in charcoal and orange.
Of course, they're also harmonizing with the overall color pallet as well as directly with
the tie.
You can find all of these Fort Belvedere accessories in the Fort Belvedere shop here.