Fresh from the Showcase here at SwisswatchExpo. We're going to do some more
about Panerai. Now, it might seem a little bit repetitive because after all it's Panerai,
Panerai, Panerai right? There's so many different ones and so many different versions over the
years that it takes a long time to talk about each one. And although we're not getting into the very
finite specifics of them, the reason I like to mention them is because of the interesting colors
or the interesting changes over time. And today is no exception to that rule. One of the ones
that I'm wearing on my wrist has just come out. It's a 2020 model. Now keep in mind. It hasn't
been that long since 2020, although it does feel like forever. It took like five years to get
through one year. It seems like, but during that time, Panerai released some really great pieces.
And this 1033 reference that I have on my wrist here, the blue Luminor
with the sandwich dial and the GMT function is important because it's the new thinner version
of the movement in these watches. Now I mentioned that because we have some other GMTs from
around the years and then we have one special watch, that's not a GMT
that can't go without mention. And the reason is the color of the dial. Panerai has some really
cool color of dials over the years and not any of them seem to be the same. In other words, they
have some enamel dials. They've got some sunray or sunburst dials. As some people refer to them,
they've got some brushed dials, they've got all kinds of different things. And so
when you look at the Panerai from our selection, you might think, wow, this seems repetitive.
Why are the numbers different? But they all look the same. We'll be sure to look really closely.
And that's why we're talking about these watches today. Now, the other watch I want to mention
is the PAM, the watch that gets most people interested in Panorai if you see them. And
it's the one that got my attention the very first time, it's the PAM 88 or the 00088 reference. Now,
this is interesting because this is also a GMT, but it is not a Panerai movement. It's a Valjoux
7750 movement. That's modified, of course the Panerai standards. And the interesting thing is,
and I've explained this before, when you look at these models like this you'll know
that it's not, it's not a guarantee that it's not an in movement, but most in-house movements have a
clear case back so that you can see the automatic winding movement or the manual wind movement.
It's not a guarantee. It's just a general, somewhat of a general rule. It's about 80%.
Sure. So this one, as you can see, doesn't have the clear case back,
but it's the actual dial that on this watch, that gets so many people's attention.
First of all, it glows like the sun. When you turn the lights out, the luminescence on this dial is
bar none. One of the brightest ones outside of the Radiomir. It's a very simple and clean dial design
and dial, but it has some really interesting differentiations and textures on it that really
draw your attention because most Panerai are very, very simple. So if you're the kind of person that
likes a little bit more of a complicated nature to the dial and you like something, that's very
interesting. And over time, you keep noticing just a couple of little different oddities about it.
The PAM 88 is probably the one that grabbed your attention. First. Most people say
that the PAM 88 and the 321 which we talked about last week are the two models that they
want most in their collection. Everything else is sort of a secondary option for the most part.
The 88 is definitely the most popular of the GMT series. It has the open hands. Now there's
a couple of different models that have the open hands. So what I mean is away from the center
of the dial. There's an open space before you get to the tip edge of each one of the hands.
So some of them have longer open spaces and shorter. This one seems to be the one
that catches everybody's attention because the bright luminescence that's available on the edge,
the tip edge of each one of the hands. And then when you look at the GMT function,
it's on a very long arm, but it has a very bright triangle at the end.
Some of the GMT models have the more of a patina look or an orangy look. So they may
not be as bright as you would want this watch in every respect displays in details. Crispness,
the chaptering around the outside edge of the dial shows the 24 hour markers for the GMT hands.
And I just think that this one with the date complication and the reverse magnification,
in other words, the bubble on the inside, instead of the Cyclops on the outside, like you see on
a Rolex, just brings everything together. It's so many different features in one watch
you just continue to keep looking at it over and over and over again. So this is the Luminor
series of watch, Oh, by the way, one of the thing, this watch is a high polished case everywhere, as
opposed to some of the other cases which may have a brushed or satin finish or a mixture thereof.
So a lot of different things to pay attention to. Now, some people say that the watch seems way too
thick or way too heavy, but after all, remember you're buying a Panerai, you're not buying
something like a Movado where you expect it to be thin and lightweight. We're about a historical
watch, a diving watch. That's supposed to be thick and robust and heavy. That's how they're
designed. So that's the PAM. Now, interestingly, when we move on, there's a competitor to the 88
and this one has the in-house movement. This is the five, three, one five free one takes
a lot of the things, not all, but a lot of the things from the 88 and incorporates it
in with a little bit different case style. It's a little bit more rounded. It's the 1950 case
has a little bit more rounded style on the cushion with the pillow style.
And then it takes the date complication. And it does not magnify it. There's no magnifier
for the date. It looks more like the 321 where it's a little clean, simple crystal.
And it also does a few other things. It keeps the colors monotone.
They've got that patina on them or the simulated patina on them. They're a little bit
almost Manila colored, orangy Brown. They all have the little, the features. This happens to
be also a sandwich dial. They did not paint all the markers on the dial either, but it retains
similar hands for the hours. It does use a different GMT hand on this particular piece. So
a lot of folks like the vintage nature and color of this dial, they liked the color of the, the
markers on the dial. And they liked the fact that it's a sandwich versus the painted dial on the 88.
So these are two that often are competed against each other. And of course, it's always do I want
the in-house Panerai movement, the manufacturer caliber movement, or do I want the original 7750
Valjoux? You that's been around forever. It's just sort of a judgment call, but most people
wind up having two or three in their collection anyway. So, you'll probably wind up having a few
of these throughout the years, yourself, if you are really independent right now, the last model,
this is interesting. And I bring this up because I've talked about, Panerai
not having sequential numberings so you could literally have the PAM 88, but you
would. I think if they changed something small about it, let's say they took away the magnifier,
or maybe they made this a sandwich dial instead of the painted dial. You would think that if
they went from the PAM 88, the next generation may be the PAM 89, or maybe even the PAM 90.
That's not true at all. And the reason that can display this today is because this model is an 86.
And as you can see, the PAM 86 looks absolutely nothing like the PAM 88 with the exception of
two features. Well, actually three. So, so there's three features that the PAM 88 and the 86 share
the magnified date, the painted dial, and then the silver sub dial. Those are the
three things that it shares that they have in common. This is called a Marina, by the way,
the PAM 86 payment is six as a 2001 series watch as well. So this watch hasn't, it looks older
just by a smidge because they did the old sat and finishing around the bezel and around the case,
this also happens to be the Panorai Luminor,
not the Luminor 1950. So they had a little bit of a different finished in the five 31.
So when you look at these and you start finding some of the generational similarities,
they show, even though this is an 88, and this is an 86, they do share some things, but not
all things they're not congruent and they're not, they don't go in sequential order. Now,
one of the things that I really like about Panerai is that you can change all the straps out
and you can make them any color that you want. You can customize them to yourself
and your liking. They do have the rubber straps, the alligator straps, they've got the
leather straps in the canvas straps, and then even the Velcro straps for all your different
adventures. They also even have the metal bracelet if you want to get the metal bracelet for them. So
Panerai is a very diverse product, pay attention to all the little details,
the finite details about the watch.
Do you want an in-house caliber? Do you want a thinner piece with the newest
in-house manufacturer caliber? Do you want more of the traditional style and the boldness of
something like the PAM 88? These are all questions that have to be answered, and most likely you're
going to have five of these in your collection, and you'll be a Paneristi before you know it.
So if you want to be a Paneristi to give us a call here at SwissWatchExpo, we'll answer all
your questions about the Panerai did. We got a lot to choose from. We've got more coming. So
ring the bell subscribe. We're going to continue to keep showing our products to you that we have
in our case. And give us a call. We'd like to talk to you about any Panerai. You have an interest in.