all right so we start by on l1 and l2 on one and n if you have a 120 volt circuit L to be
changed to n in this case we're going to use a 208 circuit that's the one we're gonna see most
commonly so we're gonna power up Terminal one okay there's gonna be a straight shot
it's either gonna come from your power on the breaker or if you have your coil wired
through your condensing unit you're gonna take power from there so wherever we get a dedicated
208 okay as soon as we get power on there it's gonna send power up to the timer motor okay as
soon as this timer motor gets power the time clock should start advancing so obviously if
you have power there and you mark your time clock and you started doing your troubleshooting you're
marked with a sharpie 15 minutes later the thing hasn't moved there 20 minutes later so
it's more noticeable it hasn't moved well you know the problem right there okay next we have
a jumper on terminal 2 to terminal 1 so these are jumper together okay and then we're sending power
up to here and this is a normally open switch or normally closed switch the arm will go open
and close sometimes it's drawn with the contacts normally closed so come through here we come to 4
okay whenever four has power three will be normally open so we can see it right
here three is normally open this one's drawn with the arm as well normally you'll see it
drawn with the other orientation with the normally open and normally closed contacts
okay so right now three is open okay three and four will never be closed or open at
the same time okay at this point four is gonna send power down to evaporate fans
so now Terminal four is hot and it's obviously going to be hot all the time as long as we
have power coming in so we could draw n here in the circuit so right now in this setup foreign
and/or hot through red and blue so if you test it across four and n you would get 208 at this point
all right at this point Terminal four would send power to the red side or the l1 leg of the fan
motors they're all jumper together as you can see them they jumper through here okay and then our l2
side is coming from n so we come off of n onto our red wire so this is like a universal switch that
all the manufacturers use you don't need this specific one for the coil sometimes you want
the specific one just because of how it mounts to the coil but if you're in a pinch a lot of these
are universal they use all the same color code red brown and black so at this point and would
send power to terminal C okay so if the coil is below 35 Fahrenheit this switch here is closed
okay if it's above 35 the switch will be open okay why that's important your fans don't turn
on until the coil gets to 35 Fahrenheit okay so we're below 35 if you go to a call and the coils
below 35 it's freezing and the fans aren't turning on okay you want to check for power between 4 and
F first if we don't have power at 4 and F you start working backwards okay and see why F is
not getting power it's probably this switch has failed okay so on this orientation here
our fans working all our Viper fans are working the switches on the red to black position for an
F get power ok now when we go into a defrost the first thing that's going to happen on a defrost
is the normally closed switch tup here they were talking about this arm is actually going to open
so as soon as they defrost starts okay so you can set those pins use.you it's every six hours
we'll say anywhere from half an hour to one hour usually we'll set it to one hour this arm here
is now going to actually open up like this and pin one is now going to come here and it's gonna close
this arm right here so they've drawn this arm kind of poorly but this arm here is now going to
close so we now have power on pin three okay so this normally open contact now becomes normally
closed as soon as we hit that defrost pin on the timer we're going to come through three
all right we're gonna feed the bottom here or you go right to Terminal three
so right now screen and are the only ones that should be hot okay the fans will no longer be
working because we've lost power on four why we don't want the fans to run during defrost
so obvious to use their steam and there's moisture we don't want that all going on the
ceiling so we don't want to push all the steam and moisture onto the ceiling and then when the
cooler freezes then you get all the droplets of steam on the ceiling and then once they defrost
a big ol all over the floor and it might not seem like much but over time it will collect all
right so right now and in three are hot so if we continue to draw through our n we come through
here we're gonna come through our heat or limit switch so all this switch is just say one of the
if anything gets stuck closed and the heaters always get power we obviously don't want the
heaters on when we when we have the compressor on so we have a heat or limit switch that will
open up and I'll turn off the heaters for us this is going to come up through here and we're gonna
feed our h1 so now our h1 is hot and if we look at our h2 it's wired directly into N and as we know n
is our l2 so we always have power on here as long as we have power up top so now our h1 and h2 the
defrost heaters would turn on you frost o'clock I usually set to one hour okay so what happens
now in that one hour is now the coil has gotten above 35 Fahrenheit so this switch is no longer
going to be closed and now we use the second side of the switch so what happens on this second side
of the switch alright so we're gonna come the defrost termination switch okay once we get to
55 Fahrenheit so that is most likely gonna happen before one hours up if we have a good coil that's
not collecting a lot of ice if we're clocking a lot of ice and we're going to the full cycle the
full one hour that's telling us we probably have an issue either a drain or something something's
freezing up there's too much ice or frost on the coil could be a TXV adjustment there's all kinds
of reasons why so once we get to 55 Fahrenheit we're gonna close this switch okay so this is
our Brown wire Browns going to X okay X is going up to X on our defrost clock okay so right here
we show a load here so this guy right here is actually a solenoid okay so that's a solenoid
okay so because pin three is hot as well still pin three comes over to here okay so as soon as X gets
power and three should be setting power to at all times this solenoid activates what this solenoid
does is it activates a plunger okay as soon as the plunger goes up and you'll hear it click okay as
soon as the plunger goes up and will remove power from 3 and put it back onto four okay why we want
this to happen is what I was talking about earlier we don't want too much steam in the box so if once
we get above 55 that's what we found is the number of 55 coil temperature not box temperature once
we get to that number we're creating a lot of steam in that box and as soon as we get water
droplets on the ceiling and they freeze and then once we go back into defrost it'll leak all over
the floor okay and it adds up over time if you do it over a couple days or even over a couple even
a week is enough for it to be noticeable on the floor obviously once we have water on the floor
it's gonna freeze up we don't have any defrost elements under the floor so it literally becomes
a slip-and-fall hazard as soon as this solenoids activated we're gonna lose power on three
okay and then ii was gonna jumper the power back up to for this arms gonna be closed again
because our solenoid activated and activated that plunger now that we lost power on three
of the solenoids no longer in the circuit and then four comes back down it's gonna feed this
whole circuit again if we have power on terminal X here okay you can never be in a defrost so if
you ever using a defrost clock and as soon as you put it into defrost right away it's going
back into cooling a lot of people think hey the problems with the defrost clock but in fact you
have to come and take a look at this X terminal okay because as soon as we have power on this X
terminal we're gonna have power up here on this solenoid this is a pretty common problem you're
gonna see is sometimes this arm gets stuck up here and I've seen that happen a lot and I've
seen it get stuck both ways actually up and down okay but when the arm gets stuck up here what
happens is it thinks the coils 55 Fahrenheit and it'll never go into a defrost okay so if you go
and you have a clock and even you'll see it on the true timers they have the green light red light if
you go into defrost it goes to red light for 1 second it clicks off the first thing I'm going
to is this switch okay if there's power on X we have power on the solenoid anytime there's power
on the solenoid the plunger kicks up it takes 3 out it kicks this arm out it closes this arm
right here now we're going to wire we're gonna wire in a digital thermostat okay so this one's
a little bit funny the schematic doesn't really add up to what they have in the booklet and I'll
I'll show you why so the first thing you want to do is L okay that's gonna go to terminal 1 right
here okay we're gonna jumper that in there we're gonna send a wire from terminal 1 okay
now whether you have a 208 or 120 volts unit okay so we're gonna stick with our 208 we're
gonna come from here and we're going right on end so that means we always have power at the
thermostat okay how they've drawn it here is they want you to take power from from Terminal
four okay you can't take power from Terminal four because as soon as this solenoid they're
sorry as soon as the defrost clocks activated Terminal four will lose power and you'll lose
your digital display okay so we're not going to use this jumper wire so what we're gonna do
is from LC we're gonna take this we're gonna go to terminal 4 okay so that means the only time
the actual contacts okay so this side here is for power and for display the only time the contacts
have power is when we're not in a defrost okay that's important we don't want the compressor
running during a defrost obviously it defeats the purpose okay the compressor will keep running the
fans will keep running and the elements will be on alright your ally know is gonna come here and
it's gonna tie into your wire for right here so you're not going to connect this wire for
coming out okay and you're gonna connect this right into your liquid line solenoid okay so
now we have power on here when these terminals close these terminals can only close way up now
now if your in ever in a situation like that where this switch has failed close if you disconnect
this ex terminal the defrost will work but it'll go for the entire duration so if it's set to 30
minutes or one hour it'll go for that length so obviously that would be a pretty temporary
solution but at least they would get a defrost and the coil won't be freezing up on them second
side is liquid nine solenoid is now gonna get power off of N and as we know ends always powered
up that's your l2 ok it's a straight shot it's coming from wherever you're coming from either
the contactor for the compressor or front separate circuits it's a straight shot from your power feed
you