- What's going on Chemical Guys crew?
Today we have for your viewing pleasure my 1998, Chevy S-10.
Now I recently picked up this car,
and in our last video I showed you guys how
to properly polish up any of the chrome
or exposed metal pieces.
And, like I said,
the car was sitting outside for a long time.
It was never in a garage,
so it's one of those vehicles
that sits outside all of the time.
And just to show you,
the paint is fully contaminated with fallout,
oxidation, anything else that gets stuck in the pores
of the paint, giving that rough feel
and also rough look.
So you can see it's kind of got this dull finish.
So what we're gonna do here is,
we've already washed it to strip away any old layers
of possible waxes, which I doubt this car has.
And then we're also gonna show you how
to properly clay it today using a medium Clay Bar,
which we've already kneaded up into a small patty
about the size of three fingers.
We're also gonna be using some Clay Luber.
So you just work it back and for here.
This is gonna get really dirty, really quick.
But if you're new to Clay Bar,
what this is doing is it extracts any of the contamination,
or fallout that's stuck in the pores of the paint.
You can see all that brown runoff.
But this is a key step in the detailing process,
especially if you're planning on polishing the vehicle,
and the reason being that this is going
to help you achieve the best results.
I'm gonna get a towel 'cause just look how dirty this is.
But this will help you achieve the best results,
because now you're not going to grind in any
of the abrasive particles,
or any of the filth back into the paint,
which causes micro scratches or pigtails.
Or if you're going to skip that step,
and go on to application of some glaze,
sealant or waxes, or you're putting on a coating.
You don't wanna lock this kind of junk in there,
so you wanna make sure that you clay it first,
and it's gonna give you a nice smooth finish.
And it's going to actually make it a better finish overall,
because now there's not going
to be the fallout in your pad,
which could, again scratch up the paint even worse.
Or else you could lock it in there which gives you,
for one, it's not gonna bond very well,
and two it's gonna look just awful.
So, Clay Bar, it's kind of a tedious step,
but it's a very necessary step
to get your car looking its best.
So for today's demonstration purposes,
I'm gonna show you how to properly clay this section
of the hood here,
and we're also gonna polish it
to revive that shine and restore the gloss.
(rapid spraying)
(light scrubbing)
(rapid spraying)
(light scrubbing)
It's important to keep it lubricated though
because that's what causes marring.
Marring is the collection
of micro scratches in one generalized area,
which makes your paint look very cloudy.
(rapid spraying)
(light scrubbing)
(rapid spraying)
(light scrubbing)
Ah! (giggle)
(brisk wiping)
So as you're clay barring,
you see that the Clay Bar get really brown and dirty
because it's collecting all the contamination
from the vehicle.
That's why you want to roll it and knead it
until you can't find a clean edge.
A lot of guys ask how often,
or when do you have to replace this,
and again, if you can't find a clean edge,
or if it feels really gritty,
then it's just time to throw it away.
But that's why we recommend cutting this up into two
or three pieces.
This way you have some Clay Bar left over
for the rest of the job
and also if you should drop this,
it's just like a piece of gum
where it'll hit the ground,
it collects all that kinda dirt and rocks,
and you can't bring that back to the vehicle.
You have to throw it away.
Pulling out a small piece,
not only effective for your pocketbook,
but it's also going to make it easier
for the rest of the detailing job.
But now you see here that the vehicle's nice and smooth,
so now we're gonna move on to the actual polishing step.
Where we're going to be doing a two step,
because this car is over 20 years old,
and I'm pretty sure it was a single stage paint.
So we're going to just remove the oxidation
and then just jewel that.
So we're gonna use two the least aggressive approaches,
being an orange Hex-Logic pad with V36
which is a cutting polish,
and then we're going
to refine it with a white Hex-Logic pad and V38.
(light chatter)
With the, face.
So now we're moving on to the polishing step.
We're gonna be using V36.
As I mentioned, we've already clay barred the vehicle
to remove all the contaminants
that were in the pores
of the paint giving this really slick finish.
And then we wiped it down with Wipe Out just
to ensure that there wasn't any lingering kind
of residue or any kind of dirt.
Now we've got our TORQ22D which has the largest throw,
and also it's on a six inch pad
because this truck has a lot of flat panels,
and it's gonna save us a lot of time and effort.
Start by applying five dime-sized drops,
or the size of one hex.
And this is one of our dual action polishers,
which means it oscillates
and also rotates in counter directions.
As opposed to a rotary,
where it would be in one singular direction.
And we're also gonna apply a little bit of pad conditioner,
which helps to moisten the pad
and this is helping it to last as long as possible.
This also reduces some of the friction
that causes pads to wear out fast,
and it also helps to kinda cut down on any of the dusting.
We'll start here on this section.
And what I like to do is I work
from the center out in a 2 by 2 ft. section,
which is about your shoulder width apart.
And on a lower speed setting, we're gonna spread this out,
and then on a highest speed setting,
when we're using our dual action polisher,
that's how we're going to refine the compound
or polish that we're using,
and it's also going to refine the paintwork.
But a couple things to keep in mind is
you wanna make sure that the pad is completely flat,
and also that it's spinning at all times.
This way it ensures
that it's actually breaking down the chemical
that you're working with.
And this way you're actually getting a correction,
or a polish out of it.
And also you want to make sure
that that's not dipping or diving too much.
And as well,
you want to make sure the machine is constantly moving,
about an inch per second,
that's going to be your arm speed.
And then you wanna work it until your chemical,
or you product goes completely clear or translucent,
and then you can buff up any of the excess,
and then you'll check your work.
(machine humming)
(accelerated squealing)
(machine grinding)
So as you saw,
the polish went basically clear,
and our wiping it away with a clean micro fiber towel just
to check out work.
But now the surface is really slick.
Even after the Clay Bar it feels smooth,
but now it's gonna be really smooth.
And this is the time where,
you can either leave it at this level of shine,
or you can further refine it,
which what we're gonna do using V38.
And we can more on to our actual coating process,
such as, it could be a ceramic coating,
it could be a glaze, seal and wax combination.
Just something to make sure
that we're going to protect the surface,
because now that we've refined it,
we've also exposed a fresh layer of clear coat.
Which means that all kinds
of contamination can quickly clot this up giving
that rough feel very quickly.
So it's important to put some kind of protection on there
before going out into the elements,
or leaving it parked outside.
The same process what we're gonna use, using the V38,
but in the meantime you guys can check out these products on
our website chemicalguys.com.
If you like today's video,
be sure to give it a thumbs up.
I'd love to hear what you guys want to see me do this truck,
or if you have any recommendations,
or if anyone want to donate a cowl hood.
That'd be great, but if not,
still give us some love.
Drop your comments down below,
and we'll see you guys next time.
(upbeat music)