let's do it 2 inch schedule 80 in the 2g position today we're going to do
root pass along with some good arc shots hot pass in a two bead cap but
first the prep I got a sample pack of Weiler abrasives so this is a good
chance to put them to the test flapper wheel for the inside diameter a
flap disc for the outside these coupons are prepped really well with some
protective stuff on them they came from triangle engineering I'm going to put
two bridge tacks I have never been allowed to use bridge tacks on any job
that I've been on but I'm figuring I'll give them a shot here for the sake of
this video bridge tacks are tacks that don't penetrate all the way to the root I'm
gapping it with 5:32 wire and I have grounds some flat spots on the side just
a little twist and come out of there really easy after the tacks shrink no
land 3:32 rod 95 amps lift arc.. here we go
this is the dip keyhole method and the the key is you got a key hole just a
little bit but not too much you got to keep the rod in there pretty often and
you got to push a little bit of rod each each dip you don't want to just barely
dip and starve the puddle you won't get any reinforcement on the side but if
you'll push a little bit in not jam it in if you jam it in you'll get a cold
shut of unmelted wire on the back side so it just takes a little gentle push
when you have to stop it with a scratch start or a lift arc you don't want to
just snap right out you trail out inside the bevel but away from the edge of the
bevel so you don't melt that edge away okay half of its done and the bridge
tacks are ground out with a really slight taper feathered on on each end
for the tie in I didn't get a an arc shot of that thought I did but I did not
get it so I'm gonna weld the rest of this up here and I'll skip forward a
little bit because it's all gonna look pretty much the same here it is again
just keyhole a little bit now if I had a narrower gap like 1/8 gap I might need
to go to 100 amps instead of 95 if I had a 3/32 gap I might need to go even
higher I decided on 532 spacers just because I
wanted to push some reinforcement through the route and I figured that
would do it alright for the hot pass and the rest of
the passes I'm using 110 amps now because I had a few uneven
places in the route some of them were closer to flush than others for parts of
this I'm just leaving the rod in the puddle using the lay wire technique for
other parts I'm dipping in and out
personally I can generally carry a little bit more metal if I dip in and
out because I can push a little bit in with each dip so what i'm doing here is
on the areas that are high i'm just walking over the rod in areas that are
low i'm dipping in and out to try to push a little bit so that it can be
somewhat even by the time I'm finished with the hot pass now I'm trying not to
get outside of the bevel but you can see I'm nipping it here and there every now
and then I'll shake or slip or whatever but I'm not getting out of scope too bad
I'm still going to have some fairly straight lines to follow for the cover
pass it's a great idea to get some left hand practice - I mean Boilermakers all
know this they have to use right hand left hand and they never have much room
to to weld even so they're welding in tight quarters all the time and having
to switch hands so hats off to all the Boilermaker welders out there you can
see I'm wearing one of my tick fingers here it makes a huge difference on
something like this this this pipe is getting really smoking hot but I'm not
I'm able to prop and stay steady and not have to worry about that part of it next
a to bead cap again I'm four parts of this I'm kind of just leaving the rod in
there in fact for most of it I'm leaving the rod in there but occasionally I'll
dip like right here and main the main reason is there if I start to lose track
of where the edge of the weld is dipping in and out sometimes helps me see a
little bit better plays the light a little bit better helps me see exactly
where the edge of the puddle is as opposed to where I need to be with it
now because I use a fairly large gap here it's going to require a two bead
cap if I had chosen say a 3/32 gap that would make it pretty easy to do a one
bead cover pass but I didn't so it's gonna take two beads all right now for
the the last bead the second bead on a two bead cap now I'm going to just be
watching the top of that bead trying not to leave any underfill or any undercut
so that means I'm gonna you know keep a little pressure on the rod
not play the ark up too far push a little rod in there when it needs it and
if I have to come in and out of the puddle and dip I'll push enough rod in
there toward the top of the puddle to make sure I don't leave any undercut at
the top I should call attention to the fact that
I'm using a clear cup for Ark shots and then a pink ceramic cup for the Far Away
shots it's two different coupons here I'm trying to get as good arc shot as I
can and in the clear Cup really helps with that and then the pink Cup actually
helps for the faraway shots because it kind of blocks the arc and everything
doesn't get washed out so I cut it right next to the well so we could see if I
got a decent root in there I got a little reinforcement push through not my
best work but it's been a while well good you're still here for the next
minute or so I'm going to show some clips of walking the Cup from a previous
video that I did and I'll try to link that up those usually show up in the top
right hand corner if you're on YouTube but I'll show a few clips of that I'll
show walk in the Cup versus freehand with a take finger here we go walking
the Cup is akin to rolling a 55-gallon drum across a shop floor you sort of do
a little figure eight and it progresses you along at a nice even rate it's a
great technique I'm using a piece of heavy wall stainless tubing here that
I've scored some lines on some little wagon tracks just to sort of simulate
the bevels of a pipe it's a great technique but you can't always do it
sometimes stuff is in the way and so sometimes it's good to have a tick
finger to prop right next to where you're welding and you can you can
handle the heat that way and when you don't have to worry about your fingers
roasting you can hold your hand a lot steadier and concentrate on the weld and
by just doing a straight up z weave you can get a well that looks almost or
equal to what you can get with walking the cup maybe not every time but it's
you're pretty darn close some jobs don't want you to walk the cup some jobs
almost demand that you walk the cup so it's great to know how to do both TIG Fingers
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