Argan oil can cost as much as $300 per liter,
making it the world's most expensive edible oil.
Just 20 years ago, however, the production of argan oil
was isolated to local villages in Morocco,
with international sales virtually nonexistent.
But since then, the formation of women-run cooperatives
has transformed the production
into a billion-dollar industry.
So, why has argan oil suddenly gained such popularity?
And what makes it so expensive?
Argan oil is predominantly used
in high-end cosmetic products and Moroccan cuisine.
The oil comes from the seed of the argan tree,
native only to the narrow strip of semi-desert
between Morocco's Atlantic coast and the Atlas Mountains.
The Amazigh people of North Africa
have been using the argan seeds for centuries,
and the methods for creating this costly oil
haven't changed in years.
Narrator: Once collected, the argan fruits are sun-dried
before being peeled and de-pulped by hand
to remove the fleshy outer layers.
The leftover argan nut then needs to be cracked
to retrieve the oil-rich kernel inside.
Narrator: The next stage is grinding,
which is often also done by hand.
Narrator: The leftover pulp removed from the fruit
is sold as animal feed, particularly for goats,
who are intrinsically linked to the argan tree.
In some areas, it's tradition to allow goats
to climb the trees to freely feed on the fruits.
Argan kernels are then collected from their excrement,
saving the laborious work
of cracking open the nuts manually.
But nowadays, in most argan forestries,
this peculiar sight is mainly used as a tourist attraction.
Narrator: Traditionally, Amazigh women,
who until 1956 required the man's permission
to leave their homes,
made argan oil primarily for culinary purposes
using methods passed down through generations.
This artisanal oil was occasionally sold on the roadside
in recycled bottles for as little as $3 per liter.
Narrator: Zoubida Charrouf first studied
the argan tree for her PhD in the late 1980s,
when the species was in dangerous decline.
After conducting scientific research
to support the moisturizing benefits of argan oil
on hair and skin, Charrouf planned to transform
the environmental problem into an economic solution.
Narrator: Sure enough, the rapid rise in popularity
of argan oil not only brought profit to the region,
but also revitalized an entire ecosystem.
The newfound respect for the value of argan trees
ensured stability for the species, and in turn,
the surrounding wildlife and community reaped the benefits.
The argan tree, known locally
as "the tree of life," provides food, shelter,
and protection from desertification,
and its deep roots prevent soil erosion,
allowing vegetated grass to grow for grazing livestock.
It's estimated that up to 90% of the economy in this region
is owed to the argan tree.
Narrator: In just one generation,
the international market for argan oil
has risen from just 200 liters
to 4,000 metric tons in 2019.
By 2025, the state's ambition
is to sell over 10,000 metric tons.
To facilitate this increase, the area for producing the oil
has expanded more than 100 miles south of Essaouira
and is due to expand north.
As with any costly ingredient,
argan oil products are often adulterated.
Both cosmetic and culinary argan oil is often labeled
as "pure" despite the undisclosed percentage
of Argania kernel oil being mixed
with a host of chemical compounds.
And cheaper, mechanically extracted oil
has begun to appear on the market
for as little as $22 a liter,
threatening the stability of the local cooperatives.
However, some cosmetic giants, such as L'Oréal,
have committed to fair-trade programs
to help ensure the stability of their argan oil
and the preservation of the forest's biodiversity.
With the help of the cooperatives,
the traditional skills held by the Amazigh women
have created a booming industry.
But even though this income has granted
some financial independence in a male-dominated society,
the women normally make less than $220 a month -
below Morocco's recommended national minimum wage.
With the argan oil industry predicted
to continue its growth,
the prosperity of the Amazigh women remains to be seen.